Tlacotalpan

Colorful houses in Tlacotalpan

Tlacotalpan is a picturesque small town in eastern Veracruz on the Papaloapan River. The town is overlooked by many visitors to Mexico, despite being one of the most iconic colonial settlements in the country. Tlacotalpan has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, largely due to its colonial architecture and well preserved town center. The town has also been designated as a Pueblo Magico by the Mexican government, indicating that it is regarded as one of the most charming small towns in Mexico.

Understand

The name "Tlacotalpan" means "land between the waters" in Nahuatl. The name reflects the fact that it was once an island on the Papaloapan River, though over the years, the river path has deviated and one side of the river silted up and today is solid ground.

Tlacotalpan was settled by the Spanish in 1550, though many of the town's structures date from the late 19th century.

The terrain is mostly flat wetlands with sugar cane growing in most nearby fields. The area is subject to coastal flooding during severe storms (usually in late summer), and to fog in winter months whenever a front rolls in.

Get in

By car

The fastest and most comfortable way to get to Tlacotalpan is to rent a car and drive. From the city of Veracruz, follow MEX 180 along the Gulf of Mexico until you reach the small town of Conejo Blanco, then turn right on to MEX 175. The route is pleasant and scenic with views of the wetlands and the Gulf of Mexico for much of the ride, and then views of the river as you get close to Tlacotalpan.

By bus

TRV buses serve Tlacotalpan. From the main bus station in Veracruz, the trip takes 2-1/2 hours and a ticket costs from M$115 to M$260, depending on demand and time of day. TRV is a second-class regional line, so buses aren't usually comfortable or clean and tickets are generally sold in-person, in cash.

• 1 Terminal de Autobuses TRV, Alvarado - Cosamaloapan, Centro. The TRV terminal is adjacent to the Malecon. A separate ADO terminal is across the street. (updated Sep 2023)

Get around

It's a small town. Walking will get you anywhere but it would be a lot more fun and memorable to rent a bike and explore the narrow cobblestone streets and alleyways (callejones) of town.

• 2 Bicicleteando, Parque Zaragoza Plaza, Centro, ☏ +52 229 213 8346. M-Sa 09:00 - 22:00, Su 07:00 - 22:00. Variety of bikes in adult and child sizes. Hourly and daily rates available. They're rental bikes and may have dents and scratches so inspect the bike before leaving the shop. (updated Aug 2024)

See

Street scene in Tlacotalpan

• 1 Museo Agustin Lara, Av. Miguel Cházaro 2. Agustin Lara is well known throughout Latin America as a singer-songwriter who composed a number of hit songs performed by singers like Pedro Infante, Julio Iglresias, Vicente Fernandez and others. Lara lived from 1897 to 1970. This small museum is dedicated to his life and career. free. (updated Dec 2022)
• 2 Plaza Tlacotalpan (Parque Zaragoza), Plaza Tlacotalpan, Centro, Tlacotalpan. This is the place you came to see. The beautiful town square is immaculately landscaped with sculpted shrubbery, towering palms, a bandstand (music and dancing Saturday nights), a clean, white, colonial church, and spectacular colonial buildings with arched porticos on all sides. (updated Dec 2022)
• 3 Mini Zoologico de Pio Barran Barteli, Av. Venustiano Carranza 25, ☏ +52 12 881159268. 07:00 - 20:00. Quirky place that's a cross between a local history museum and a shelter for rescued animals. Hear tales of local legend and lore. Check out all the old stuff in the inside rooms. Don't put your hand in the crocodile enclosure (that dude is HUGE!). (updated Dec 2022)
• 4 Sanctuary of the Virgin of Candelaria, Centro. Historic colonial era church built in 1779. The interior is lavishly decorated with a number of important artworks and architectural details including a series of frescoes, several statues of saints and biblical characters (the central niche contains a statue of the Virgin of Candelaria that includes actual human hair), and an impressive silver altar (one of five that the church was built with). The church is built of mucar stone overlayed with stucco. It has a single vault and a central dome. (updated Aug 2024)
• 5 Museo Salvador Ferrando, Manuel María Alegre 6, Centro (Plaza Hidalgo). Daily 10:00 - 19:00. Housed in a 19th century home in the heart of the downtown area, the museum showcases the life and works of painter Salvador Ferrando who was famous primarily as a portrait artist. The museum contains a large number of period furnishings and personal objects and is a fascinating retrospective on town life in 19th century Mexico. (updated Aug 2024)
• 6 Iglesia de San Miguel Arcangel, Av. Prof. Guillermo Pous Llinas 1, Centro. This is the second oldest church in Tlacotalpan, built in 1785. The architecture is a variation of neoclassical style and the building was constructed of wood and cement. The church was the scene of indigenous protests against the government leading up to the Mexican War of Independence. The church is home to a famous oil painting, La Solita de San Miguel, which has been venerated by the local people since 1810 when prayers to the painting are credited for ending a plague that had killed many townspeople. (updated Aug 2024)

Do

• Boat rides on the Papaloapan River. Local boatmen offer rides in their wooden canoe-type vessels, though newer, more modern vessels are used by an outfit called El Cuenqueño (tickets across the street from the pier).
• Celebrate the festival of Virgen de la Candelaria (patron saint of Tlacotalpan) on February 2 each year. Celebrations begin in late January. A figure of the Virgin is decorated in colorful adornments and then rides through town in a parade with 600 horsemen and a crowd of women dressed in traditional indigenous garb. Events at the local churches. Fandango dances.

Buy

• Galeria Jardín del Arte Tlacotalpeño (Tlacotalpan Art Garden), Calle Pablo Díaz, local art on exhibition --- and for sale

Eat

• 1 El Mirador, Boulevard Guillermo Cházaro Lagos, Tlacotalpan, ☏ +52 28 8106 8370. 9:00 - 119:00. Popular seafood restaurant near the riverfront. (updated Dec 2022)
• 2 Restaurante Tlalcotalpan, MEX 175 s/n, Centro. Typical Mexican seafood restaurant, very casual, cold beer. Views of the river. (updated Dec 2022)
• 3 MariCarmen, Av. Miguel Lerdo de Tejada 22, Centro, ☏ +52 288 884 2225. 06:00 - 17:00. Popular local restaurant with regional Veracruzana cooking. Try the gorditas with their unique anise flavoring. (updated Sep 2023)

Sleep

• 1 Hostal el Patio, Av. Puerto de Alvarado 52, ☏ +52 2881070518. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. (updated Dec 2022)
• 2 Hotel Dona Juana, Av. Juan Enríquez 32, Centro, ☏ +52 28 88843480. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Traditional hotel, 2-stories, clean, cheap. 1 block off main road through town. US$25. (updated Dec 2022)
• 3 Posada Casa de la Luz, Av. Bernardino Aguirre 15, Centro, ☏ +52 28 88842331. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Private home that rents clean, comfortable rooms. M$500. (updated Dec 2022)
• 4 Hotel la Casa de las Sirenas, Av. Juan Enríquez 15, Centro, ☏ +52 2293734878. Check-in: 15ː00, check-out: 12ː00. Elegantly appointed colonial style bed and breakfast inn. Manicured gardens and pool areas. Upscale furnishings. M̩$1800. (updated Jan 2023)
• 5 Hotel Posada Doña Lala, Av. Venustiano Carranza, Centro, ☏ +52 288 884 2580. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 12:00. Colonial style hotel close to river. Rooms are a bit small. Has a swimming pool and an on-site restaurant. M$1200. (updated Sep 2023)

Go next

• Catemaco
• Coatzacoalcos
• Zempoala