Footwear Research Network

I was excited this week to be quoted in The Washington Post alongside fellow Footwear Research Network contributor Dr Emily Brayshaw, commenting on a German court's decision not to classify BIRKENSTOCK sandals as applied art. My own view is that while Birkenstock took a creative approach to preventing copycat designs, the case raises questions about how such restrictions align with its identity as an accessible, culturally relevant brand. When shoes become fashion icons, imitation is inevitable. While a brand might design a shoe, it's how people adopt, adapt, and reinterpret it that builds its cultural value. In this sense, shoes develop their own social lives - sometimes clashing with brand strategy or corporate identity. Consumers increasingly gravitate toward brands that embrace, rather than resist, their products' social lives, no matter how unexpected or inconvenient. This suggests that the answer to IP challenges might lie more in creative strategy and innovation—drawing on deep product, consumer, and cultural insights—than legal intervention. When trends inevitably cool off, it's these authentic connections between the brand and its loyal wearers that endure, sustaining the brand into the future. Very interested to hear from industry insiders about Birkenstock's approach and the court's decision. What does this mean for the footwear industry? #footwear #shoes #Intellectualproperty #innovation #culture #culturalobejcts #culturalrelevance https://lnkd.in/g3ge_b-X

At De Montfort University, we continue to provide the next generation of footwear professionals with incredible opportunities to learn their craft, engage with the footwear industry, and graduate with a specialist degree. With 100% employability graduates go into an amazing array of careers, including roles with: Nike PUMA Group adidas  Lacoste Pentland Brands  The Footsoldiers Design Consultancy  Paul Smith  GIVENCHY  Clarks Next Kurt Geiger  Burberry McQueen To name but a few!  . We've also taken part in a number of 'live' industry projects with: adidas x Gravity Sketch  Dr. Martens plc Jimmy Choo  Bauer Hockey  Vibram Group  New Balance  Sophia Webster  TOMS And lots of other amazing brands too! We'll continue to build upon these amazing partnerships to best equip our students with the skills needed within their future careers.  . Now seems like an appropriate time to highlight that we have recently set up a DMU footwear advisory working group, and yesterday we invited some key footwear industry members on to campus for an open discussion on how we can collaborate and work together to ensure that the future of Higher Education in footwear studies continues with us so positively. Ultimately this will provide the wider footwear industry with the next generation of designers, developers, entrepreneurs and enthusiasts to maintain the heritage of UK footwear.  It was incredible to be surrounded by such passion, enthusiasm and support as we collectively work towards implementing a plan of action. I'd like to extend my gratitude to those of you who spared your valuable time yesterday to share your thoughts and ideas. The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, The Worshipful Company of Pattenmakers, British Footwear Association, Richard Shetliffe, Polly Lythall, Sarah Day, Christine / Chris Anscombe, Joanne Jørgensen FRSA, Hector Rubio, Annette Cove, Daniel Rubin, Lydia Howard, Ella Payne, Madeleine Sessions, Darla-Jane Gilroy and of course Carolyn Hardaker, Louisa Day & Tom Weir. . Drapers #Footwear #FootwearIndustry #FootwearDesign #FootwearDesignDMU #MadeFromMore #dmuForLife

I recently had a wonderful conversation on the Feeling Fashion Podcast with the amazing Adele Varcoe and fellow footwear researcher Ellen Sampson about our respective academic research on shoes. I have no doubt Ellen and I could have easily talked for another two hours. Apologies to Adele, who barely got a word in edgeways! 👠 🩴 👟 #shoes #footwear #sneakers #meaning #memory #identity #emotion #affect #phsychology #sociology #anthropology Footwear Research Network, Global Footwear Future Coalition https://lnkd.in/g637uU_k

This is a truly beautiful documentary. What a gift to anyone for whom Clarks have been part of their lives. Congratulations to everyone involved. Full film here: https://lnkd.in/gs93aQ57

Exciting news: we have just launched  "Closing the Footwear Loop" 🚀 This major initiative led by Fashion for Good, brings together 14 leading fashion and footwear brands and their existing circularity programs to tackle the complex challenges of circularity in the footwear industry. This collaborative project aims to shift away from the current linear "take-make-dispose" model towards a circular one. The problem: the global footwear industry produces approximately 23.8 billion pairs of shoes annually, with 90% ending up in landfills. Each shoe comprises more than 60 components, making disassembly, repurposing and recycling difficult. How we will address this issue with "Closing the Footwear Loop": 1️⃣ Map European footwear waste streams to understand volumes and rewearability 2️⃣ Develop a roadmap towards circular footwear design for circular and safe inputs and materials, recyclability, durability and repairability. 3️⃣ Validate end-of-use innovations through trials and impact assessments. Read more about the project here: https://lnkd.in/e7KSmZAt adidas, Deichmann, Dr. Martens plc, Footwear Innovation Foundation, Inditex, lululemon, On, Otto Group, PUMA Group, Reformation, Target, Tommy Hilfiger, Vivobarefoot, Zalando, Circle Economy, circular.fashion Katrin Ley Georgia Parker Sophie van Kol Dipanwita Ray João Pedro D'Amato de Moraes Jyotsna Gopinath Marta Frigato Etta Lathan-Pons Brittany Burns Hyunji Kim

This is an absolutely brilliant deep dive into the significance of fashion in politics by the very clever Clare Press. I absolutely believe that fashion can be a Trojan horse for positive systemic change. Trump has realised the power of fashion (well, footwear - who can forget the fight fight fight sneaker 🤯) but what does it look like when used in positive ways to persuade consumers away from oligarchs? I highly recommend listening to this episode, you won’t regret it!

This was a tricky article to write. I have a huge amount of respect for Deckers Brands and all they achieve in terms of CSR, but what's happening between UGG and the Australian makers of the iconic sheepskin boot known quintessentially as "Uggs" feels wrong. In October last year, I gave a workshop at the launch of the Global Footwear Future Coalition about cultural sustainability, and someone asked me what an anti-cultural decision might be. This is it. Preventing Australian manufacturers—many of whom existed before Deckers obtained legal rights over the name—from selling footwear labelled as Uggs beyond their shores is cultural appropriation. Bankrupting them by taking legal action is wrong. "The controversy highlights a growing tension between intellectual property rights and cultural sustainability. While environmental sustainability is becoming a priority for brands and the media, cultural sustainability – which includes preserving heritage, cultural diversity and local practices – often takes a back seat." Consumers are now boycotting Deckers Uggs in favour of sheepskin boots made by Australian manufacturers. This controversy serves as a cautionary tale for global brands. While aggressive trademark protection may offer short-term legal victories, it can appear anti-cultural and consequently damage a brand's reputation. Just because it's the law doesn't make it right. In an era where authenticity is increasingly valued, the ability to acknowledge and respect cultural heritage may prove more valuable than any trademark. #footwear #culturalsustainability #culture Footwear Research Network

As the year ends, we finish with an article by Footwear Research Network contributor Charlotte Stachel, who reflects on the 10th Shoes and Clothing in History Conference in Zlín, home to the world-famous shoe brand Bata. The legacy of Tomas Bata maintains an important place in the history and identity of the Czech Republic through the Shoe Museum at the Museum of South East Moravia and the Tomas Bata University in Zlín, where students can still study footwear design. #History #Heritage #Culture #Identity #Bata #Footwear #Shoes #Manufacturing Bata Group https://lnkd.in/g5izysGD

It’s great to see the resurrection of OSD to address current challenges for sneaker culture. 👏

Such great insights from two leading scholars. “Perhaps the biggest issue for Nike—like much of corporate America—isn’t a lack of innovation as much as a lack of patience and curiosity” No doubt NFTs and Augmented Reality will realise its full potential some other way but such a shame to see the demise of RTFKT so soon after its acquisition.