Peebles
Peebles is a town in the Scottish Borders, with a population in 2020 of 9000. The name is Brythonic: pebyll meant "tents" or a temporary dwelling place. It's a market town and had a textile industry, which (as in other Borders towns) collapsed in the 1960s. It became a byword for provincial tranquility: to say that somewhere was "like Peebles on a Sunday" was not necessarily a compliment. It's nowadays a commuter town for Edinburgh. The main reason to visit is Traquair House, and to walk the nearby hills and forests.
Get in
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Map of Peebles
Peebles is 23 miles south of Edinburgh on A703. Borders Bus X62 runs hourly from Edinburgh via Penicuik and Eddleston to Peebles, taking 75 min. It then runs east along A72, the Tweed valley, via Cardrona, Innerleithen, Galashiels and Tweedbank to Melrose - M-Sa this section is every 30 min.
Borders Bus 91 runs five times M-Sa from Biggar to Broughton, Stobo and Peebles. Bus 93 runs three times M-Sa from West Linton to Romano Bridge, Blyth Bridge and Peebles.
1 Eastgate outside the post office is the main bus stop: all buses travel west here before looping through town and going their separate ways.
Get around
[edit]You need your own wheels to reach Traquair, Kailzie or Dawyck.
There's a taxi rank by Eastgate bus stop. Taxi firms include M&D (+44 7518 373992) and BARC (☏ +44 1721 721212).
See
[edit]- Peebles Library Museum (Tweeddale Museum & Gallery), High St EH45 8AG, ☏ +44 1721 724820. Apr-Oct M-Sa 10AM-4:30PM. The building is from the 16th century, acquired in 1857 by William Chambers the publisher, who had it remodelled in Baronial style. It now houses the town library and museum, and its artworks include a replica of the Elgin Marbles. The canopied war memorial in the courtyard is a striking Moorish design. Donation.
- John Buchan Story is also in the library building, but a separate entrance, open M-Sa 10AM-1PM. John Buchan (1875-1940) practised law locally. He's best known as the author of The Thirty-Nine Steps, but he went on to be Governor-General of Canada.
- Churches: St Andrew's (1195) has only a tower remaining, while Cross Kirk (1261) is little more than a foundation course. The Old Parish Church is a newcomer of 1887, still in use by the Church of Scotland.
- 1 Neidpath Castle a mile west of Peebles is a L-plan tower house built from the 13th century. Admire the exterior, the interior can only be visited by special arrangement.
- 2 Great Polish Map of Scotland is within the grounds of Barony Castle Hotel north off A703. It's a 50 m x 40 m relief map of Scotland built by Polish ex-pats in the 1970s.
- 3 Harehope Rings are the earthworks of a hill fort, reached by a forestry trail.
- Horsbrugh Castle is a ruined 16th-century towerhouse two miles east of Peebles. You see it for about 10 seconds as you drive along A72, and frankly that's enough. Nether Horsbrugh Castle another mile east is in even sorrier condition.
- 4 Kailzie Gardens, Kailzie EH45 9HT (on B7062), ☏ +44 1721 720682. Apr-Oct daily 10AM-4PM. Though Kailzie is open year-round, with spring displays of snowdrops and daffodils, the main draw is the 19th-century walled garden open from April. Dogs permitted on lead. They have accommodation. Adult £7.50, conc £6.50, child free.
- 5 Robert Smail's Printing Works, High St, Innerleithen EH44 6HA, ☏ +44 1896 830206. Apr-Oct M Th-Sa. Victorian printing press, initially water-driven by lowering a wheel into the stream beneath the workshop, like an aircraft undercarriage. Visit by 90-min guided tour, 3 tours a day. Adult £10, conc £8, child £5, NTS / NT free.
- St Ronan's Well is a spa source in Innerleithen, which took its name from a novel by Sir Walter Scott. It remains closed in 2024.
- 6 Traquair House, Innerleithen EH44 6PW (7 miles SE of Peebles), ☏ +44 1896 830323. Apr-Sep Sa-Th 11AM-5PM, Oct Sa-Th 11AM-4PM, Nov Sa Su 11AM-3PM. A fortified mansion from 15th century in what might be called "very very early Baronial" - it may have acted as a prototype for the later fashion. Furnished mostly in 18th century style - it was never Victorianised - and with displays on its history. There are also gardens, a walled orchard, microbrewery, and upscale accommodation. Adult £15, conc £13, child £8.
- 7 Dawyck Botanic Garden, Stobo EH45 9JU (B712 twelve miles southwest of Peebles), ☏ +44 1721 760254. Daily Feb & Nov 10AM-4PM, Mar-Oct 10AM-5PM. 25 hectare arboretum in the hills of the upper Tweed valley, run by the Royal Botanic Garden of Edinburgh. The cool climate suits mountain trees and shrubs from Nepal, China and Chile, and the azaleas are a riot of colour late May / early June. Assistance dogs only. Adult £10, conc £8.70, child free.
Do
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- Eastgate Theatre, Eastgate EH45 8HD, ☏ +44 1721 725777. Regular programme of theatre, stand-up, music and film.
- 1 Alpine Bikes Glentress, Unit 2, Glentress Peel EH45 8NB (off A72 three miles east of Peebles), ☏ +44 1721 724522, glentress@alpinebikes.co.uk. Daily 9AM-5PM. Helpful shop does mountain bike hire and repairs. Lots of nearby bike trails, you can hire a bike and helmet for around £30 a day. Check with them for any forest trails that might be closed temporarily for logging.
- Bands only occasionally perform, but there's several in town so you've a fair chance of catching one of them. Look for Peebles Orchestra, Peebles Burgh Silver Band, and Innerleithen Pipe Band.
- Walk: Lots of nearby trails, including the 13-mile John Buchan Way from Peebles to Broughton. The Southern Upland Way passes through Traquair, heading east to Galashiels and southwest to St Mary's Loch.
- Hay Lodge Park stretches along the riverbank west side of town. The path is firm and wheelchair-accessible for a mile then turns rough. A footbridge connects to the south bank path, also firm.
- Peebles Swimming Pool is on Port Brae behind the old Parish Church, open daily.
- Golf: Peebles GC is west side of town. Other courses are at Cardrona and Innerleithen.
- Rugby: Peebles RFC were promoted in 2024 and now play in National League Division One, the amateur game's second tier in Scotland. They play at The Gytes.
- Gytes Leisure Centre has a gym and fitness classes but no pool. It's on Walker's Haugh east side of town.
- Horse riding: Kailzie Equestrian Centre is on B7062 opposite the gardens.
- St Ronan's Border Games are next held 13-20 July 2024 in Innerleithen, five miles east, along with the Cleikum Ceremonies a civic flummery.
- Innerleithen Music Festival is next held 16-18 August 2024.
- Peebleshire Agricultural Show is next held on 17 Aug 2024 at Nether Horsburgh Farm, Cardrona.
Buy
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- Supermarkets: Sainsbury's on Northgate is open daily 8AM-10PM, and Tesco a block north is open M-Sa 8AM-10PM, Su 8AM-9PM.
- High Street / Eastgate has several gift shops, convenience stores and ATMs. "Veitch's" is a landmark shop sign in town centre - the sign has been preserved though this outfitters shop closed in 2008.
- Tweed Art (MacHardy's), 1 Biggiesknowe EH45 8HS (just north of bridge), ☏ +44 1721 720246. M-Sa 9:30AM-5PM. Small art gallery selling the work of local artists.
- Farmers Market is held every Saturday.
Eat
[edit]- Francos, Port Brae EH45 8AW (next to Parish Church), ☏ +44 1721 720510. W-F 5-9PM, Sa Su noon-2PM, 5-10PM. Great Italian restaurant, gets booked out at weekends. Splendid pizza and pasta.
- Prince Of India, 84 High St EH45 8SW, ☏ +44 1721 724455. Daily 5-11PM. For an okay-ish Indian meal.
- Mandarin Garden is a cheerful Cantonese on School Brae, open daily 5-11PM.
- Gaucho is an Argentine steak restaurant due to open in summer 2024.
- Forsyths, 21-25 Eastgate EH45 8AD, ☏ +44 1721 720833. M-Sa 7AM-4PM. Butcher and bakery, gets great reviews for its pies.
Drink
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- County Hotel, 35 High St EH45 8AN, ☏ +44 1721 720595. M-Sa 11AM-midnight, Su noon-11PM. Belhaven pub popular with younger drinkers, with decent food, dog-friendly.
- Bridge Inn (The Trust), 72 Port Brae EH45 8AW, ☏ +44 1721 720589. Daily 11AM-11PM. Friendly trad pub.
- Neidpath Inn, 25 Old Town EH45 8JF, ☏ +44 1721 588109. Daily 11AM-midnight. Trad pub with TV sport and a beer garden, has rooms. B&B double £75.
- The Cross Keys, 24 Northgate EH45 8RS, ☏ +44 1721 723467. Daily 7AM-10:30PM. JD Wetherspoons pub. Nice on a hot day as it has a good beer garden.
- Traquair House brews ales using original 18th century techniques and equipment found beneath the chapel. They're cockle-warming stuff on a cold night.
Sleep
[edit]- B&Bs include Green Tree Hotel and Kingsmuir House.
- The Tontine on High St gets good reviews for comfort and dining.
- The Park, 2 Innerleithen Rd EH45 8BA, ☏ +44 1764 651550. Reliable mid-range place in town centre. B&B double £120.
- 1 Peebles Hydro, Innerleithen Rd EH45 8LX (east edge of town), ☏ +44 1764 651846. Vast edifice now owned by Crieff Hydro, both of which originally offered dubious "water cures". It has been refurbished yet visitors still encounter tired, worn facilities, in small rooms with no aircon. But lots of family activities, such as kids' club, swimming, horse riding. B&B double £220.
- 2 Macdonald Cardrona Hotel, Cardrona EH45 8NE (On A72), ☏ +44 344 879 9024. Good mid-price hotel with golf course and spa. B&B double £290.
- 3 Cringletie, Edinburgh Rd, Redscarhead EH45 8PL (off A703), ☏ +44 1721 725750. Baronial castle hotel built 1861, with acclaimed Sutherland Restaurant. Occasional lapses but generally to a high standard. B&B double £300.
- Traquair House (see above) has upscale accommodation.
- 4 Stobo Castle, Stobo EH45 8NY (B712 near Dawyck), ☏ +44 1721 725300. Luxurious spa resort set in beautiful grounds near Dawyck Gardens. Stays are full board with spa treatments, they also have day-visitor packages. Double from £600.
- Caddon View[dead link] is a gem of a guest house on Pirn Rd, Innerleithen.
Connect
[edit]As of May 2024, Peebles town centre has 4G from all UK carriers, but there are lots of dead spots on the nearby highways. 5G has not reached this area.
Go next
[edit]- North to unmissable Edinburgh.
- B709 is a scenic lonely road from Innerleithen north towards Dalkeith and Edinburgh. South it runs via Traquair towards St Mary's Loch, the Ettrick Forest and (just what you'd expect) a Buddhist monastery, thence via Longtown to Carlisle.
- East to the great abbeys of Jedburgh, Dryburgh, Melrose and Kelso
| Routes through Peebles |
| Glasgow ← Biggar ← | W  E |
→ Galashiels |