Soon after Disney opened its flagship resort in Florida 50 years ago, attention turned to Europe. After years of negotiation, a 30-year agreement was signed on 24 March 1987 between the Walt Disney Company and the French public sector, paving the way for the Euro Disney Resort to be constructed as part of a new town east of Paris, Marne-La-Vallée. It is said that Disney’s then-CEO, Michael Eisner, wanted Mickey Mouse to sign on his behalf; the request was refused by French President Jacques Chirac.
Disney’s second park outside the US (after Tokyo) opened on 12 April 1992, and 30th anniversary celebrations are already under way. As Europe’s most popular theme park, Disneyland Paris welcomes around 10 million visitors a year. But like all good Disney creations, there have been plot twists. It is the least-visited Disney resort and spiralling debt over the past three decades has led to restructuring, Saudi bail-outs and, eventually, Disney taking full ownership.
Euro Disney was rebranded as Disneyland Paris and, a decade after it opened, a satellite park – Walt Disney Studios – was added. There have been successive challenges – the park opened during the early 90s recession and Disney Studios just six months after 9/11. Now, the resort enters its fourth decade after two years of pandemic and an enforced closure of almost eighth months.
But expansion is under way with the construction of a Frozen-themed land and an Avengers Campus with Spider-Man ride at the Studios. The fairy-tale pink Disneyland Hotel, crowning the park’s entrance, is being renovated and will reopen next year.
This allows Hotel New York – The Art of Marvel its turn in the spotlight. Opened last summer next to the Disney Village of shops and restaurants, the goliath, Manhattan-themed hotel is arranged into blocks – Gramercy, Midtown and so on – throughout which are scattered more than 350 artworks that pay homage to Marvel creations.
Highlights include huge Pop Art depictions of Hulk, Captain America and Black Panther by Italian twins Van Orton, backlit window comic covers in the lobby by Carlos Gomez and a trio of life-sized Iron Man suits. Guests can create their own comics in a Marvel studio, and Spider-Man leaps out for meet-and-greets at the Super Hero Station, where photo opportunities include Peter Parker’s upside-down bedroom for some camera trickery.
Joining the fan club
Naturally, there is no end of anniversary merchandise on sale everywhere you look within the parks. New sculptures of princesses and villains sprout from the Central Plaza gardens between Sleeping Beauty’s Castle and Main Street. Here, a celebratory birthday show takes place four times a day.
Last weekend, I joined the mini princesses and superheroes, Disney Adults, hen parties, Mickey-eared, lanyard-garlanded and multi-generational families – plus megastar Maitre Gims – on the Plaza, as orchestrated fountains shot skywards and fireworks fizzed.
Even the most cynical, icy-hearted Cruella would find it hard not to be drawn in by the emotion of the performance, as Mickey, Minnie and friends showed off new costumes and cast members twirled and grinned with the fervor of an Olympic ceremony.
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Integral to the 1987 agreement was the promotion of French and European culture within the parks. Other than the stellar attractions, ride names are in French. Dialogue, such as on Rémy’s Ratatouille Adventure ride, alternates between French and English. Outside the motion 3D ride, visitors find themselves in Paris, all Haussmannian elegance with shuttered windows, wrought-iron balconies and ornate lampposts.
Stalls proffer tarte tatin and other French delicacies, while Bistrot Chez Rémy serves duck pâté and steak with ratatouille. The Chez Marianne boutique is stocked with French-themed sweets and souvenirs, and in the Disney Village, the Gaumont multiplex cinema bears the name of the world’s first film company, founded on the outskirts of Paris in 1895.
While my Rapunzel-garbed daughter stared in awe at Aurora and her prince charming waving down from their castle balcony, Portuguese guide Francisca – one of 15,000 of the park’s staff – pointed out another Gallic reference: “Look at the detail around the turrets – what do you see?” Baubles? “Snails!”
Another guide commented that the castle is a deeper shade of pink than its American counterparts to contrast with typically grey French skies. When I enquired about the hoarding around It’s a Small World, he responded matter-of-factly that it is closed for refurbishment while asbestos is removed. I found the realism refreshing.
Before the park closes each night, the new Disney D-Light spectacle illuminates the castle with projections, fountains dance below and drones are choreographed in the sky, culminating with a fireworks display.
France has dropped domestic Covid rules this week, but during my visit vaccination certificates were checked and masks were omnipresent. Eurostar’s service to Marne-la-Vallée, next to the park’s entrance, resumes at the end of March, bringing the magic closer.
What memories are made of
The experience isn’t cheap, particularly if you go for the full experience and stay at one of the on-site hotels. Restaurant meals can easily nudge £150, but with a bit of careful planning, you can self-cater, bring in picnics and cut costs.
And ultimately, it’s about the memories. Riding Peter Pan’s Flight took me straight back to the California resort, aged eight and marvelling at the starlit rooftops of London. My daughter wanted to ride again as soon as we got off; her face was priceless when Rapunzel acknowledged their matching dresses at the parade. My three-year-old son cracked a smile when Spider- Man taught him how to shoot a web, and “Hakuna Matata” was belted out at the Lion King: Rhythms of the Pride Land show.
They’re already asking when we can go back.
How to get there
Walt Disney Travel Company International offers a two-night stay at Disney’s Sequoia Lodge from £344pp, with access to the Disneyland Paris Parks for three days and return Eurostar travel from London St Pancras, disneyholidays.co.uk.
To book the direct Eurostar service to Disneyland Paris visit eurostar.com
