The flamboyance of flamingos barely acknowledges our presence as we float quietly past, their vibrant pink a startling contrast against the lush green backdrop. We are in the Al Zorah Nature
Reserve, officially declared a Wetland of International Importance two years ago. With one million square metres of natural mangrove forest, it is a haven for bird and marine life.
The ecologically rich area is home to more than 100 species of native and migratory birds, including the 120 resident flamingos as well as egrets, herons and kingfishers. A replanting programme is under way to increase the volume of greenery and attract more wildlife.
The best way to explore is by kayak. Quest for Adventure runs guided tours of the mangroves with regular breaks to protect the environment. We leave the marina in a twin-Canadian canoe, tied up for more stability, before transferring to individual kayaks to navigate the smaller channels. Here, birds swoop and fish and crabs can be seen in the clear, shallow waters.
This opportunity to appreciate nature in such peaceful surroundings is rare – particularly in the United Arab Emirates.
Out from the shadows
If you haven’t previously heard of Ajman, you are not alone. The smallest of the seven emirates has long been overshadowed by its bigger, brasher sibling, Dubai. Situated between Sharjah and Umm Al Quwain on the Arabian Gulf, it is close enough to the bright lights and futuristic cityscape of Dubai to be able to visit easily (in less than an hour), yet far enough away to avoid it entirely.
There’s no major airport, but Dubai International lies just to the south of the city.
Ajman’s appeal lies in its untouched nature and wildlife, and authentic history and culture. There is space to breathe and relax, to explore and to seek adventure.
Along with kayaking and bird-spotting, there are lots of hiking opportunities in the foothills of the Hajar mountains. The well-worn goat trails that wind around the wadis (valleys) and rocky terrain near Masfout, 120km southeast of Ajman city, allow walkers of all abilities the freedom to enjoy the dramatic landscape.
Synonymous with fishing
Ask a local
“We have beautiful natural beaches here. In the summer I love to go to the beach with my family, to enjoy the white sand, clear waters and warm sun.
“I also like to fish, and we take the catch of the day to the fish market to be cleaned and cooked. The market is great fun to visit in late afternoon to watch the fresh fish being brought in by dhow and auctioned off to the highest bidder.”
Alia Ali Rashid, communications executive
The nearby 4km-long corniche provides a picturesque seafront to walk off the excess. The promenade is popular for sunset strolls and comes alive at weekends in the cooler months, when locals enjoy barbecues on the beach.
The Ajman Museum, an 18th-century fort with artefacts and exhibits, is one of the oldest buildings in the Gulf and offers an insight into its past. Opposite is Souq Saleh. Built in the 50s as a collection of 10 shops, there are now more than 80 boutiques offering traditional tailoring. The souq was restored a few years ago but retains a lot of the traditional architecture, including roofs made from palm fronds and coral stone pillars. Next door is the Gold Souq – small by Dubai standards but significantly more navigable.
Ajman has long been synonymous with fishing, and people travel from across the UAE to visit its fish market. In action for more than 40 years, it is best witnessed first thing in the morning or in early evening during the frenetic, twice-daily auctions. Prices are bellowed through a loudspeaker as crowds push against each other in the hope of picking up a bargain from the day’s haul – safi, tuna and kingfish are among the catches on offer.
An emirati breakfast at Qdeemk Ndeemk Café hits a sweet spot. Fluffy pancakes are served with date syrup and cream cheese alongside balaleet (sweetened vermicelli and eggs), all washed down with Karak chai tea.
World-class stud
In the desert outside of the city is Ajman Stud, home to some of the world’s most beautiful Arabian horses – a claim backed by numerous trophies. Owned by Sheikh Ammar bin Humaid Al Nuaimi, Crown Prince of Ajman, its horses compete in pageants around the world, where they are judged on their heritage, beauty and agility, and are revered on the European and Middle Eastern circuits.
Although it is a working stud, visitors can tour the Arabic complex and its lush grounds to see the horses being trained for competition (book in advance).
Any visit to the UAE is likely to include some rest and relaxation in the near-guaranteed sun. The Fairmont Ajman, on a prime beachfront setting with easy access to corniche and city, offers an inviting infinity pool next to a private 200m sandy beach and gourmet dining.
The quality of luxury beach resorts – something so synonymous with a winter sun break to this part of the world – is high, yet the prices are considerably lower than Dubai. It is little wonder, then, that visitors spend an average of a week in Ajman as opposed to several days in Dubai. Add space and nature into the equation and you can understand the appeal of this hidden gem on the Gulf.
Travel essentials
When to go
The most pleasant time to visit is from November to March, when average temperatures range between 30°C (day) and 14°C (evening). The weather is hot and humid from June to September, with temperatures hitting 48°C and humidity well above 60 per cent. Many hotels drop their rates significantly during this time.
During the month of Ramadan (this year from Sunday to 4 June), there are restrictions on eating and drinking in public during the day, and restaurants are closed until after sunset.
How to get there
Dubai is the gateway to Ajman, with direct flights from London, Manchster, Birmingham, Glasgow and Newcastle. Ajman is approximately 30 minutes’ drive from Dubai airport.
Where to stay
Three nights in Ajman with Virgin Holidays, including Emirates flights from Stansted to Dubai, bed and breakfast accommodation at the Fairmont Ajman, with transfers, costs from £495pp.
Five nights in Ajman with Virgin Holidays, including Emirates flights from Stansted to Dubai and all-inclusive accommodation at the Fairmont Ajman, with transfers, costs from £935pp.
Start your holiday in the v-room at Gatwick or Manchester Airport. Book via virginholidays.co.uk, 0344 557 3859 or visit one of their 110 stores located in Debenhams, House of Fraser, Tesco, Sainsbury’s and Next stores nationwide.
Where to eat
For seafood on the beachfront, try Themar Al Bahar restaurant – select from lobster, crab, squid, oysters and more.
Enjoy hot and cold mezze followed by a spiced lamb or marinated grilled chicken kebab at Kiyi, a Turkish restaurant at the Fairmont Ajman.
What to do
Take a kayak tour of the Al Zorah Nature Reserve or visit the Ajman Stud to see some of the world’s finest Arabian horses.
The enclave of Masfout, 120km southeast of Ajman City, offers an easy introduction to hiking in the foothills of the Hajar Mountains.More information: ajman.travel
