Barbados is the land of all-inclusive resorts, where buffet tables heave and daiquiris flow on tap. But if you ignore the island outside the resort gates, you’re really missing out. Here are the dishes that are well worth the trek…
Breadfruit bowls at Yelluh Meat
Breadfruit is sneaking its way onto many a trendy vegan menu, but the guys at Yelluh Meat have mastered the art of making this ingredient more palatable. From their spot in Bridgetown, they blister whole breadfruits over open flames, until the skin is blackened. They then scoop out the starchy flesh, chop it up and fill the charred bowl with whatever you fancy – I went for the pulled pork, topped with a healthy drizzle of garlic butter and their signature hot sauce (£9).
yelluhmeat.com
Rice and peas at Oistin’s Fish Fry
Every Friday night, the streets of Oistin come to life for the fish fry, the warm air filling with the smell of seafood and the sound of live music. Take a wander between the stalls and see what looks good – most offer the same kind of plate, filled with the catch of the day, fried plantains and the Bajan staple of rice and peas. It was Fred’s Bar that drew me in – I got a plateful of crispy fried marlin, rice and peas (and fries) for about BD$30 (£12).
barbados.org
Macaroni pie at Bay Tavern
Another classic Barbadian side dish is macaroni pie, a dense mac and cheese often served in a hefty slab next to some fried fish. One of the best places to get it is Bay Tavern, on the rugged north east of the island. Ignore the indoor seating and take your food out to one of the tables on the shore, where you can watch the waves crash from the shade of palm trees. Oh, and don’t panic if you see “dolphin” on the menu – in Barbados, that means mahi mahi.
visitbarbados.org/bay-tavern-martins-bay
Sushi at Nishi Restaurant
There is, of course, the chichi side of the island, where glammed up tourists sip cocktails in their overpriced kaftans. The centre of all this activity is in Holetown, near Sandy Lane. This is where you’ll find Nishi, a swish restaurant serving up platters of exquisitely pretty sushi and summery cocktails. It’s pricey – think £15 for dim sum and £28 for the shrimp tempura maki roll – but the portions are huge.
nishi-restaurant.com
Fresh fish at John Moore Bar
All around the island you’ll find countless rum shops – rickety little bars where you can get an ice cold beer or eye-watering rum punch from 10am. At John Moore Bar on the north west coast, take your drink out to the back, where the bar seeps seamlessly onto the white sands of the beach, and watch the fishermen bring in the catch of the day. Ask nicely, and you can get a plate of it fried up for your breakfast.
visitbarbados.org/john-moore-bar
Flying fish cutters at Sea Side Bar
Another rum shop, Sea Side Bar is just above the beach at Bathsheba. You can always be sure of a frosty bottle of Banks beer and, if you’re lucky, you might be able to grab a fish cutter. These pillow soft salt bread sandwiches are the kind of thing a Northern mum would make you for a long car journey, but stuffed with warm, crunchy fried flying fish.
facebook.com/seasidebar246
Ceviche at Champers
On my first trip to Barbados, a trip to Champers was planned as our one blowout meal. And it’s worth it – book a terrace table perched over the sea at sunset and the view is one of the best you could ask for. Go at lunchtime, and you might spot turtles swimming underneath you as you tuck into their zingy signature ceviche. Mains around £28.
champersrestaurant.com
