Ludlow is fortified by a curve of the River Teme in the border land of the Welsh Marches. Proud residents preserve its heritage with the care of white-gloved curators. The cobbled streets and listed buildings are a reflection of the wealth of Shropshire’s wool, cloth and glove-making trades. Along and within them are independent shops and restaurants and cafés that favour local produce. Antique stores, delis and countryside views complete its appeal.
The ruins that overlook Ludlow were once home to Arthur, the Prince of Wales (son of Henry VII) and his wife, Catherine of Aragon. Arthur and Catherine took up residence in the castle after their wedding, but Arthur died six months later. Catherine claimed they had never consummated the union, which enabled her match with Arthur’s younger brother, Henry VIII.
Today, Ludlow Castle is a family attraction that hosts events, which this year include gigs from Bastille and the Kaiser Chiefs. Climb its towers to survey the town and miles of surrounding fields. It position, first chosen in 1086, was strengthened with the addition of Ludlow’s town walls from 1233.
How to get there and around
The rail station is within 10 minutes’ walk of the town centre and is served by Transport for Wales (tfw.wales), with connections to GWR (gwr.com) routes for travel on to other parts of England.
Drop your bags
The Townhouse Ludlow is a guest house just off Broad Street, one of the main thoroughfares. Rooms are generously sized with traditional décor. High ceilings are embellished with beams and the colour scheme of cream, red and green is accented with floral and flock-patterned bedspreads and curtains. Four-poster or heavy-framed beds, high-backed armchairs and deep sofas complete the look. Tea, hot chocolate and biscuits are well stocked and amenities include a fridge and coffee machine. During winter, doubles start from £110 midweek or £120 over weekends. The Townhouse doesn’t offer breakfast, but there are plenty of options within five minutes’ walk.
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Browse the shops
Rotary telephones, rainbow-striped faux-fur gilets, dog bandanas: a gift haul sourced from Ludlow boutiques should answer the pickiest of recipients. Bodenhams, which was founded in 1860 and sells menswear, womenswear, homeware and lingerie, is the longest running.
Pottery, gins, plants and more are available at the open-air market in the town square on Castle Street. More than 40 stalls set up here each Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday throughout the year. There is also a market most Sundays.
Head to Eclectica for colourful outfits, The Silver Pear for ornaments and Mousetrap Cheese Shop for hunks of smelly treasure. Castle Bookshop has a strong selection of titles, including literature about the town. There are two delis in the centre: Harp Lane (run by the team behind The Townhouse Ludlow) and Broad Bean. Stray into Ludlow’s back streets to flick through the collection at Mod Lang vinyl records, then amble around Old Street for antiques.
Cosy cafés
Kin Kitchen is Ludlow’s newest independent café, with a menu featuring produce grown in its kitchen garden and sourced from local suppliers. Sunlight floods into the back room, with a sofa, a coffee table made from the trunk of a felled tree and clapboard walls creating a stylish, but homely, setting. It is open for breakfast and dinner, with a Sunday brunch menu featuring dishes such as a Full Ludlow butcher’s breakfast (£10.50) and devilled mushrooms on toasted beer bread (£7). Customers can also book into one of its stylish apartments.
If a pastry and cappuccino is all you’re craving, stop by Local to Ludlow Café on the Square.
Rainy day refuges
Ludlow Museum, (£1.10 adults, under-16s free) is in the 18th-century Buttercross building. It details local history from the Stone Age through to the World Wars, with fossils, a medieval chasuble and audio accounts from among its collection. Ludlow Assembly Rooms has a programme of films, theatre and art exhibitions.
St Laurence’s Church, or “The Cathedral of the Marches”, dates back 800 years. Take a look at its stained-glass windows, misericords and the spot where Prince Arthur’s “heart” (likely a colloquial term for his intestines) were buried. A 15-minute bus ride will take you to The Ludlow Farm Shop.
A drink by the fire
Ludlow’s parlour pubs are a novel post- or pre-dinner stop, devoid of phone calls, arcade games or televisions. Try The Blood Bay and The Dog Hangs Well; the latter could easily be mistaken for a private sitting room from the street and it has an open fire within.
Along the same road as The Dog Hangs Well is The Feathers hotel, which was built in 1619 and opened as an inn in 1670. The half-timbered facade, suits of armour and uneven rooms lend a spooky atmosphere and its accommodation has been known to attract “ghost hunters”.
Ludlow Brewery, a venue for local bands and a two-minute walk from the rail station, also has a wood-burning stove by which to enjoy the house brews.
Three things you might not know about Ludlow…
1) It was the Norman precursor to the likes of Milton Keynes; a planned new town, built on a grid.
2) The castle became the administrative centre of the Marches of Wales in the 16th century.
3) John Betjeman wrote that it was “probably the loveliest town in England”.
Dinner time
CSons at The Green Café is a Ludlow favourite that uses local, seasonal produce. West Midlands mushroom tamales and rum and dark chocolate mousse cake are among its Friday night dinner fare.
The same family (CSons is taken from four brothers with the surname Crouch) are behind Sourced Pizza on Quality Square, where sourdough serves as a base to such options as Shropshire Shrooms and Shroppy Giuseppe.
Winter walks
For a light stroll, try the “Whitcliffe & Breadwalk”. Beginning at the castle entrance, walk along Dinham (through the castle gardens), follow the road downhill and cross the river via Dinham Bridge. Take the footpath along the left for a view across to the castle and town, before passing a mini waterfall and the weir.
Alternatively, the Shropshire Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty is less than 25 minutes away by car and has more strenuous hikes. See visitshropshire.co.uk, theludlowguide.co.uk and letsgoludlow.com.
