Travel essentials
When to go
This coastal city is well-loved by the rich and famous – as portrayed in Netflix’s recent hit reality show Dubai Bling – but visitors are increasingly keen to get to know Emirati culture and heritage beyond the five-star hotels and luxury shops.
With average temperatures in the mid- to high- 20°Cs, Dubai is a winter sun favourite. November to March is the optimal time to visit for climate. Temperatures can reach the mid 40°Cs in the summer months, when those who stick around live in air-conditioned interiors; as the mercury rises, locals disperse, and hotel rates drop.
Visitor numbers are particularly high this winter, with fans based in the Emirate for the World Cup in Qatar; Fly Dubai is operating 30 shuttle flights to Doha on match days.
Beyond the World Cup, Dubai has plenty to attract visitors throughout the year, including a shopping festival until the end of January and a food festival in spring.
During Ramadan – next year 23 March to 27 April – visitors can expect eating (even chewing gum), drinking and smoking in public to be strictly limited to the hours between sunset and sunrise.
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Where to stay
There is a wealth of hotels in Dubai, many of them opulent and expensive. A standout option is the newly opened 25Hours in the Financial District. It’s modern, with nods to Bedouin culture – some rooms have hammocks, others stand-out artwork, and there’s a rooftop pool and spa. Doubles start at £129.
The resort-style Swissotel Al Murooj is perfect for shopaholics, located opposite The Dubai Mall. It’s big and family-friendly, with doubles from £80.
Located on the “trunk” of the artificial Palm Islands, Palm Jumeirah is a popular choice for a beach break. Besides its own stretch of sand, it has six swimming pools and eight award-winning restaurants, a rooftop bar and beach club. Doubles from £160.
How to get around
Downtown Dubai is the modern heart of Dubai, while Deira – next to the airport on the north bank of Dubai Creek – is where you’ll find souqs and heritage. The coastal regions include Jumeirah and The Palm, whose shores are all pearlescent sand and clear blue waters.
The world’s busiest airport, Dubai is well-served by flights from the UK. It is centrally located, and you can reach Downtown hotels in about 15 minutes on the Red Line of the two-line Metro. Buy a red Nol card (AED2/£0.50) and load it up at the station (you can’t use cash or credit cards for travel on public transport); they can also be used on buses and trams. The Green Line will take you close to Dubai Creek. Tickets range from AED4 (£1) to AED8.5 (£2).
The bus is the cheapest option at around AED5 (£1.15) per journey, but is inevitably slower than the Metro. Taxis are also popular but traffic can be slow. It’s about £20-£35 from the airport to Downtown.
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Saturday
Start the day
It’s worth getting up early to witness the high-rise views of Dubai from the observation deck of the iconic Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building. The world’s fastest elevator ascends its 125 floors to deliver 360-degree views from the top. Doors open from 5am, so if you want to beat the crowds and catch the sunrise it’s well worth booking early. Admission AED165 (£38).
Then, go back in time to glimpse of Dubai’s history in the Al Fahidi neighbourhood, on Dubai Creek, where twisting alleys reveal 19th century sandstone wind towers and tea houses.
Hit the shops
Al Seef, also located on Dubai Creek, is a bustling destination of shops and local cuisine rooted in Dubai’s culture and heritage. It has an open-air floating market, creek-side pontoons and a host of shops selling items such as handbags, perfume and spices.
At the other end of the scale, Dubai Mall is one of the world’s largest shopping centres, packing in shops that include luxury and affordable brands alongside an aquarium, ice rink, haunted attraction and VR park. It’s worth noting that shoulders and knees should be covered inside.
Lunch break
In Dubai Mall, Al Hallab serves Arabic food. Popular choices include the mixed grill tawouk (lamb and chicken kebab on freshly made pitta) and there is a large selection of Levant desserts, including rice pudding and Halawet El Jibn, a sweet cheese roll.
At Al Seef there are dozens of restaurants and cafes serving an array of options, including Arabic, American, Indian and Emirati. If seafood is your thing, Al Fanar is a good choice, with welcoming staff and fresh catches. The menu also features traditional curries, soups and brunch dishes.
Don’t miss
The Museum of the Future is Dubai’s new flagship exhibition, located in the Financial District. The building is architecturally impressive, with an elliptical void to represent futuristic innovation. It is crowned with a torus engraved with Arabic calligraphy, while inside, visitors are transported to the year 2071, exploring themes such as climate change, space travel, ecology and wellness. Admission AED145 (£34).
Dinner reservation
Al Muntaha sits on the 27th floor of the sail-shaped Burj Al Arab hotel. Diners can soak up the sea views from a floor-to-ceiling window table, dining on Michelin-starred French and Italian cuisine.
Sunday
Go for a stroll
Inspired by Shoreditch in London and New York’s Lower East Side, Alserkal Avenue is a warehouse compound in the industrial zone of Al Quoz that is home to art studios, cinemas and shops, as well as Nightjar, a popular coffee shop that roasts coffee on site.
Cultural highlights include Zerura Rare Book store, which includes first editions, signed copies and hard-to-find titles and the Flip Side – Dubai’s first and only independent vinyl record shop. Nostalgia Classic Cars is also a key feature, the first of its kind in the Middle East. The showroom is home to over 100 car models.
Lunch break
Bistro Des Arts, a French bistro located in Dubai Marina, is a relaxing place for an indulgent lunch of snails, duck burgers and gratin dauphinoise, raw seafood or freshly baked pastries. The interior channels 1970s Paris and there’s a beautiful garden terrace.
Time to relax
Spend the afternoon on the white sand of Dubai’s beaches. A couple of standout options include Kite Beach and La Mer, serene stretches lined with cafes and restaurants.
Get out of town
A trip to the desert offers a welcome contrast to the hustle and bustle of the city, and to see Dubai from a different perspective. Just half an hour from the centre, you can go offroad and see what much of Dubai was like just 50 years ago.
A full day platinum safari includes collection from your hotel and transportation to a conservation reserve where visitors board a vintage 4×4 for a drive through the sanddunes to a remote lake and bird sanctuary. The trip culminates with a sunset camel ride to an oasis cabana for a six-course dinner under the stars, complete with fire and acrobatic performances. AED1,750pp (£400).
Ask a local
Tom Evans, a digital editor
“Visit Barasti, a bar just off Dubai Marina and not far from The Palm. It’s a bit of a Dubai institution – good for locals and tourists. It’s right on the beach so you’ve got the views and the holiday feel, it serves great food and it’s open late with a beachside bar and club night. It’s basically everything Dubai’s known for, rolled into one venue – sun, beach, luxury. It’s always packed, authentic and Western-friendly, but not so much so that you don’t feel like you’re in a different country.”
