[書籍][B] Wind, sea and swell: Theory of relations for forecasting
HU Sverdrup, WH Munk - 1947 - books.google.com
IN ORDER to forecast sea and swell from weather data it is necessary to know the character
of the waves produced by a given wind that blows for a known length of time over a known
stretch of water, the fetch. Prior to 1942 such knowledge was based on empirical
relationships many of which were inconsistent among themselves. In the fall of 1942 a need
for sea and swell forecasts arose in connection with the planned invasion of North Africa. In
order to improve the basis for forecasting, the authors began their studies at the request of …
of the waves produced by a given wind that blows for a known length of time over a known
stretch of water, the fetch. Prior to 1942 such knowledge was based on empirical
relationships many of which were inconsistent among themselves. In the fall of 1942 a need
for sea and swell forecasts arose in connection with the planned invasion of North Africa. In
order to improve the basis for forecasting, the authors began their studies at the request of …