When visiting Shanxi, one must see this pavilion that seems to have stepped right out of a Song dynasty painting
"As the autumn wind rises and the white clouds fly, the grass and trees turn yellow and the geese head south."
This ancient building, named after Emperor Wu of Han's "Autumn Wind Ode," has been continuously harassed by the Yellow River for over a thousand years. Despite being rebuilt time and again, it still stands proudly on the banks of the Yellow River, embodying the beauty of a pavilion that appears to have emerged from a Song dynasty painting.
This is the Autumn Wind Pavilion located in Wannian, Yuncheng, Shanxi. It is the crowning structure of the Houtu Temple, a sacred site for worshipping the Earth Mother—Houtu, the oldest and most primal deity in China. However, most visitors to Wannian only go to see the Feiyun Pavilion, which is known as "China's Number One Pavilion," and few make their way to the riverbank to admire this magnificent and solitary wooden structure—a true pity.
The Autumn Wind Pavilion stands 32.6 meters tall, with a lofty base that is accessible from the east and west. The east door is carved with the words "Looking towards Shandong," and the west door with "Looking towards Qin," said to be the path Zhang Yi took when he entered Qin. The south side is the main entrance to the pavilion, surrounded by a brick wall with decorative patterns.
The main body of the pavilion has three floors, is five bays wide, and is surrounded by corridors. The roof is a cross-hipped style, and on the first and second floors, there is a protruding bay on each side, topped with a tiled roof and forward-facing ridge decorations; the corridors on the second and third floors have bracket sets or flat seats. The entire pavilion is densely packed with beautifully shaped and generously proportioned bracket sets. The proportions of the pavilion are appropriate, with simple and elegant bracket sets under the eaves, and a structure that is exquisitely simple and majestic.
The Autumn Wind Pavilion is already situated on a high platform, and its towering presence makes it an excellent vantage point. Visitors can lean on the railings and gaze into the distance, where the gentle and generous Yellow River, the mother river, flows quietly. The Daxi High-speed Railway bridge spans across it, with wheat fields, fruit trees, and villages in close view, presenting a picture of tranquility and harmony.
Facing the Yellow River, one is reminded of Emperor Wu of Han, who, during a season of clear autumn skies, saw wild geese calling as they flew south, leaves falling, and vegetation turning yellow. After Emperor Wu and his ministers offered sacrifices to Houtu, they crossed the Fen River on a towered boat. In the middle of the river, white waves churned, and on the boat, a feast was in full swing, with flutes and drums playing in unison, and musicians and dancers performing in harmony with the sound of the boatman's oars, creating an endless melody. Moved by the scene, Emperor Wu composed the famous "Autumn Wind Ode": As the autumn wind rises and the white clouds fly, the grass and trees turn yellow and the geese head south. The orchid is elegant and the chrysanthemum is fragrant, holding a beloved one in my heart, I cannot forget. Sailing the towered boat across the Fen River, cutting through the midstream to raise white waves. The flutes and drums play, the oarsmen sing, joy reaches its peak, yet sorrow lingers. Youth is fleeting, what can one do about old age?