It’s a tale as old as time: A hot new creative director arrives to take over a storied brand, and the first thing they do is serve up a handful of classics with a twist.
Look at Michael Bastian at Brooks Brothers or, more recently, Brendan Babenzian at J. Crew. Each is a terrific designer in his own right, and though they’ve both put their own spin on the proceedings, each brand “update” is firmly rooted in the past. In Bastian’s case, it’s reaching for the heyday of 80s prep, and in Bebenzian’s it’s capturing some of that early J. Crew magic for a nostalgia-hungry audience.
Brand archivists, on the other hand, range in status from “keeper of the dusty boxes” to “full member of the creative team.” But the brands that successfully mine their own history for new ideas, hot reissues, and overlooked gems, are the ones that manage to feel at once historic and relevant. For any brand with deep history, the most pressing question may no longer be who is fronting the current twist, but who is minding the archive and the back catalog.
“Our archive’s role is to capture as much of the magic, creativity, product language, breakthroughs, and missteps as possible,” says Corey Simpson, Head of Product Communications at Patagonia. “It’s so much more than a collection of past gear we’ve made, it’s a portfolio of all our collective lessons learned through our constant tinkering and pursuit to improve the planet.”
He calls the Patagonia design team “feral and free-ranging” in their use of the company archive, always on the hunt for inspiration.
Julie Ann Clauss is a fashion historian and professional archivist who has helped brands like Tom Ford, Jason Wu, Calvin Klein, and Proenza Schouler catalog and store their collections.
”Having a robust archive for a new creative director to explore is extremely helpful,” she says. “Everything in fashion is cyclical and for the most part derivative in some way. All houses use inspiration pieces.”
And as important as it is to store a collection, the help an archivist can offer in interpreting it for a design team can be essential.
“I’ll often collaborate with the design studio to help them find the inspiration pieces they need, and to suggest archival pieces that may match the vibe they’re going for,” says Clauss. “A dress I suggested to a design studio once wound up on Lady Gaga for a red carpet appearance.”
One designer who has made a career out of spelunking in the archives is Alex Carleton. He’s currently the Chief Creative Officer at Filson but has also had stints at heritage-steeped brands like Ralph Lauren and L.L. Bean.
“Our history and archives are foundational to who we are. It drives our distinction within the market and is critical to our identity,” says Carleton.
“My experience at every place I’ve worked all shared that process — start with the references, then take the past and reframe it for today.”
So yes, raise a glass to the creative director behind your favorite “new” grail, but save a sip for the archivist who gave something great eternal life.
