[Famous Architecture Related to Kutani Ware] (Komatsu City, Ishikawa Prefecture, Former Province Name: Kaga)
<The pinnacle of beauty reached by Kaga Province's "stone culture" - a mysterious history that speaks strongly to people's hearts>
Kutani ware, a representative example of the advanced culture and art of Kaga Province (present-day southern Ishikawa Prefecture), is a type of porcelain characterized by the use of gorgeous colors commonly known as "five colors." It began in the early Edo period in the territory of Daishoji Domain, a branch domain of Kaga Domain, where local pottery stone was combined with the techniques cultivated in Arita in Hizen Province (present-day Saga Prefecture and most of Nagasaki Prefecture) to produce this porcelain, but after only about 50 years, all the kilns of this "Kokutani" ware were closed and it disappeared, leaving many mysteries unsolved. About 100 years later, in the early 19th century, new pottery stone was discovered in the area of present-day Komatsu City, and the "Revival of Kutani", which was mainly produced in the southern part of Kaga Province, grew into a major industry in the Kaga Domain. The lineage has been passed down since the Meiji period, and artists have been producing works full of creativity while incorporating traditional techniques, trends of the times, and even overseas pottery methods.
① Kutani Ceramic Laboratory (photos 1-10)
The "Kutani Ceramic Laboratory" is a must-see facility for learning about the substance and appeal of Kutani ware. It combines the functions of a Kutani ware workshop, gallery, and experience facility, and its architecture, with its skillfully combined acute angles, is eye-catching. It was designed by Kengo Kuma (1954-), who is now recognized as a world-famous architect. On the site of a workshop where clay for porcelain was kneaded from locally produced "Hanazaka Pottery Stone," a cutting-edge design space was created while retaining the previous functions.
The first thing that catches your eye when you enter the museum is the workshop surrounded by a huge glass wall. In front of the equipment that looks like a complex conveyor, the material of the pottery stone and the process of crushing the stone are carefully explained. Actual items are displayed at each stage, and you can see how much effort goes into making porcelain, which tends to be focused on the beauty of the finished product, and how it is undoubtedly a "locally produced" art. In the gallery space behind the building, a variety of works are exhibited with seasonal concepts, and you can purchase the ones you like on the spot. Thanks to the multifaceted lighting and soft clay walls, you can view the works without any stress, and it is also a nice point that you can see the individuality and playfulness of each artist.
Access: About 15 minutes by car from Komatsu IC
② Mutan (Photos are allowed, but there are no photos because uploading to the web or SNS is prohibited)
Kinzanyo, a Kutani ware kiln located in Takado-cho, Komatsu City, is a kiln that has delivered many masterpieces of Kutani ware to the world since its founding in 1906, specializing in its unique gold leaf technique and geometric patterns. This historic kiln has newly established Mutan as a gallery to convey the charm and value of Kutani ware. The word Mutan means "a silent beginning" and "selfless creation," and it has an extraordinary atmosphere.
Tours of Mutan require a reservation in advance. After applying on the web page and exchanging emails, you can visit Kinzanyo on the day, where the kiln owner himself will invite you into the workshop and personally guide you through the pottery making process. It is not often that you get the chance to talk to a pottery artist, and it may be a once in a lifetime experience to see the way the pottery and tools move lightly in the thick hands of the maker. With such a sense of tension, I headed to Kandan, a stone storehouse made of tightly assembled slightly yellowish stones, which were also quarried from Kanagaso in Komatsu City. When I opened the heavy door, I was greeted by a cool, tense atmosphere and rows of porcelain shining with a certain severity. The word that comes to mind from the glass that stretches to the ceiling for lighting, the linearity of the long table in the center, and the dignified appearance of the pottery is "temple". The solemnity that permeates the entire space was something special that I had never felt in any museum or gallery before, and I was stunned for a while. At Kandan, the kiln owner and his family spoke to me about the charm of the pottery, the mysterious history of Kutani ware, and the lineage of the "stone culture" handed down in Kaga Province, and I was given many insights. After the tour, the doors slowly closed and I tried hard to burn the image of Kandan and Kutani ware into my memory as they seemed to go to "sleep" again, ruminating on the quiet and passionate impressions.
Access: About 10 minutes by car from Komatsu IC
Recommendation for solo travelers: ★★★★★ (You can explore to your heart's content. It's almost a private venue!)
Visit date: Weekday, 4th week of July, around 3pm
*Some of the photos in this post were borrowed from a friend.
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