What You Need to Know About Using Physical and Chemical Scalp Exfoliants

Having healthy hair means a lot more than giving your actual strands some TLC. Sure, conditioning treatments, hair oils, and avoiding too much heat styling are important, but it's also crucial to make sure your scalp itself is in tip-top shape. After all, that's where your hair grows from. One way to optimize your hair-care routine is to exfoliate your scalp, which can be helpful in removing product buildup and also a great option for combating irritating dryness. But before you start getting rid of the gunk, there are a few things to consider when it comes to finding the right exfoliant for you.

First, let's talk about physical exfoliants, which contain microbeads or grainy ingredients that help scrub away buildup. According to Jeanine Downie, owner and director of Image Dermatology in Montclair, New Jersey, scrubbing agents aren't just for product buildup. They can also “be very helpful for those with [a very flaky] scalp." But if you're going to use a physical exfoliant, remember to be gentle. “Unfortunately, when used too vigorously, [scalp scrubs] can break the hair follicle. I would recommend [them] no more than twice a week if you have very oily hair with a lot of dandruff. Otherwise, it should only be once a week." Too much of something is good for nothing, so remember to be conservative with your use of scalp scrubs as Downie warns, "they can strip the skin on the scalp of its natural oils and can aggravate an itchy scalp if used improperly.”

While scrubs can be helpful when it comes to scalp health, be advised in some cases, they may not necessarily leave you with the flake-free scalp. The dandruff struggle — which affects over 50 million people in the U.S. — is real. “You do not need scalp exfoliation shampoos to treat dandruff, but rather shampoos that are focused on decreasing either sebum or the yeast-like particles that are often in dandruff,” says Downie. “Dandruff is treated with over-the-counter shampoos, as well as prescription shampoos. There is no known cure.”

If you have psoriasis, a skin disorder that causes raised, reddish, often scaly patches which can be painful, Downie advises you be extra careful when trying to exfoliate. “Scalp exfoliants can also aggravate psoriasis if they are used too vigorously and have the patient break out with more spots of psoriasis in the...overused area,” she explains.

If scrubs aren't necessarily your thing, chemical exfoliants can be a great way to help remove the extra gunk taking residence on your crown. Chemical exfoliants act as more of a peel for your scalp, thanks to the acids in them, which dissolve the buildup between skin cells. The effectiveness of these products is real — you may have thousands of skin cells coming off at the same time, even though you may not see them. When looking for a chemical exfoliant, look for a product with glycolic acid or salicylic acid in the ingredient list, like DCL SA Scalp Therapy Shampoo, Kai Shampoo, or Glycolix Elite Glycolix Shampoo 10%.

But if you're still about that #scrublife, look into products that contain grainy ingredients which have enough texture to remove buildup. Try Kiehl’s Deep Micro-Exfoliating Scalp Treatment, Palmer’s Anti-Dandruff Scalp Scrub Shampoo, or R+Co.'s Crown Scalp Scrub. Need more options? Check out our favorite scalp exfoliants for fall.