Interest in plastic surgery is at an all-time high, but stigma and misinformation still surround the industry and the patients. Welcome to Life in Plastic, a series by Allure that aims to break down cosmetic procedures and provide all the information you'll need to make whatever decision is right for your body — no judgment, just the facts.
When it comes to making your lips look fuller — if that's a look you happen to love — lip fillers, plumping products, and makeup techniques like overlining are some of the most common tools. They're not the only options, though — in fact, right under everyone's noses, the lip lift has become a popular alternative.
"No one knew this procedure existed two years ago, but now I have 20-somethings requesting it by name," says Dara Liotta, MD, a board-certified facial plastic surgeon in New York City and Dubai, who has performed many lip lifts in the past few years. Though standard surgical lip lifts — during which the distance between the nose and lips are reduced to create a fuller appearance in the latter — have long been done on older patients, often at the same time as a face-lift. But surgeons have modified the cosmetic procedure in recent years to make it an appealing stand-alone option for younger patients: think more discreet scars and faster recovery. And for people who want bigger lips but are tired of going back for multiple injections, the lip lift is an appealing option.
"I'm seeing a lot of patients tired of repeat injections — maybe they're bruising each time, or maybe their lips don't always turn out exactly the same — and they want something more permanent and consistent," says Michelle Henry MD, a board-certified New York City dermatologist. "The lip craze is also evolving. People are focusing on the more nuanced structure and shape of their lips — which this surgery can address elegantly — rather than just wanting their lips to be full at all costs."
We spoke to multiple plastic surgeons and dermatologists to learn the what's-what when it comes to lip lifts.
- Dara Liotta, MD, a double board-certified a facial plastic surgeon in New York City and Dubai.
- Sheila Nazarian MD, a plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills, California.
- Jennifer L. Walden, MD, a board-certified plastic surgeon in Austin, Texas.
- Michelle Henry, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
- David Shafer, MD, a double board-certified plastic surgeon in New York City.
- Edward S. Kwak, MD, double board-certified facial plastic surgeon in New York City.
- DiAnne Davis, MD, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist in Texas.
- Lesley Rabach, MD, double board-certified facial plastic surgeon in New York City.
What is a lip lift?
A lip lift is a surgical procedure that elevates the upper lip by removing skin between the nose and the border of the top lip. By shortening the distance between the nose and the top of the lip, the redness of the lip starts to roll outward, creating a more volumized look.
"The purpose is to either shorten this distance [between the nose and the lip] or to increase the size of a naturally very thin lip," facial plastic surgeon Lesley Rabach explains.
This distance between the nose and the top of the lip is called the philtral length, and though one could argue that worrying about your philtral length is some next-level self-scrutiny, according to experts and anatomy textbooks, there is technically an ideal measurement. (Isn't there always?) Not that it matters, but if you're curious, 11 to 13 millimeters is what's determined be "ideal" for women and 13 to 15 millimeters is the "ideal" for men.
"By reducing the philtral distance, it balances out the lower third of the face and also helps to unfurl the red portion of the upper lip," Dr. Rabach says. Not only does this create a fuller look, but it can also keep your top lip from hiding your teeth.
Even if genetics are kind enough to gift you a philtrum within the "ideal" range, that space can expand over time due to dwindling collagen and stretching ligaments. "As we age, the upper lip lengthens, resulting in the lip turning inward and thereby appearing thinner," Dr. Rabach explains.
What other kind of lip lifts are there?
Even though a lip lift is customizable in terms of shape and size, there are also variations of this procedure that can deliver similar results through various methods.
There's the corner lip lift, which elevates the corners of the lips rather than the center for a more defined, lifted look. "We remove a triangular piece of skin on the corner portion of the lip to give an upturn of it," says Dr. Kwak. "Someone who has some side elongation or hooding of the lip may be a better candidate for this type of technique." This procedure can also complement the subnasal lip lift.
There's also the non-surgical, in-office lip flip that uses neuromodulators like Botox, Dysport, or Xeomin to create the illusion of a fuller top lip. "The neuromodulators temporarily paralyze the muscles of the upper lip, causing it to flip outwards," cosmetic dermatologist DiAnne Davis explains. She points out that this can be combined with fillers to achieve more dramatic results.
How are lip lifts performed?
Typically done under local anesthesia in less than an hour, the operation shortens the space between the bottom of the nose and the top of the lips by carving out a bullhorn-shaped strip of skin just below the nostrils. "The procedure raises the vermilion border [the edges of the lips], causing lips to look more enhanced, and defines the Cupid's bow, so its curves are prominent and crisp," says Jennifer L. Walden, a plastic surgeon in Austin.
Doctors are essentially removing a wedge of skin when they perform a lip lift — the larger the wedge, the greater the lift — but results are still customizable during surgery. "We can manipulate the shape of the excision to make subtle changes in the Cupid's bow," like giving its peaks a more obvious boost or minimizing asymmetries,” says New York City plastic surgeon David Shafer.
Known as a subnasal lip lift, plastic surgeon Edward S. Kwak points out that the placement of this skin removal is hidden quite thoughtfully. "The placement of this is along a natural contour of the lower portion of the nose," he says. "So it's a contour right along the bottom portion of the nose and nostrils and it's a pretty well-disguised or inconspicuous incision."
What is recovery like?
Just like any surgery, downtime is to be expected. Most patients don't typically need prescription pain medication — just some ice and Tylenol. According to Sheila Nazarian MD, a plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills, California. you can expect a slight pulling sensation for three days and two weeks of swellings. After about one week, the stitches come out, and redness can be veiled with concealer.
"Everyone has that concern: how does it heal? Everyone will heal a little bit differently," says Dr. Kwak. "But any incision could heal or it could leave noticeable scarring. Redness is the other aspect that can linger as well." With that being said, he confirms that lip lift techniques have evolved to a point where the risks of scarring are minimal: "The first week of healing can look swollen and disproportionate, but after two to three weeks, everything should settle in and feel comfortable."
What are the risks of a lip lift?
When it comes to permanent procedures like a lip lift, you always run the risk of not liking the results. When in doubt, we're happy to recommend some great lip liners. However, if you are still keen on having a lip lift, Dr. Rabach recommends patients review photos of the surgeon's work before the surgery to determine if it's a good fit.
"I tell patients we'd rather lean more towards under-correction than over-correction, because you can't replace [the removed skin]," Dr. Kwak says. "It's a permanent change."
Though these cosmetic concerns are important, there are also the regular risks that any surgical procedure has such as infection or scarring. "This is very, very safe procedure and the complication rates for these are extremely low," Dr. Kwak assures. The best way to avoid these kinds of complications is to find a board-certified plastic surgeon who has done the procedure many times.
How much does a lip lift cost?
The cost of a lip lift depends heavily on location. While you might be able to find one outside of major cities for $2,000, Dr. Kwak says the average cost of a lip lift can range between $6,000 and $10,000.
For more on cosmetic and plastic surgery:
- I Got Rhinoplasty at 25 — Here's What to Expect From a Nose Job
- The Complete Guide to Breast Augmentation
- I Got Lip Fillers for the First Time and This Is What Happened
Now, watch as dermatologist Ava Shamban explains lip injections:
