Review: Casa Lucía

Why book Casa Lucía?

A classy five-star property in Buenos Aires’s most genteel neighbourhood.

Set the scene

Retiro is the most handsome neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, its elegant streets lined with grand early 20^th century buildings – neo-classical, belle epoque, art deco – inspired by heady architectural visits to Paris over a century ago. It is an area of embassies and institutes, of old family mansions and art galleries, of smart cafes, even smarter boutiques and tree-lined avenues. Beneath vast tipuana trees, Plaza San Martin is a green oasis at its heart. The Opera House is minutes away on the Avenida 9 de Julio, the Champs Elysee of Buenos Aires. That endless swathe of parks that run for miles between the city and the Rio de la Plata are just around the corner. And midway on the Calle Arroyo, my favourite street in the city, often called the aristocratic elbow of Buenos Aires for the turn halfway down, is the new Casa Lucia with its light-drenched lobby.

The backstory

The hotel inhabits the famous Edificio Mihanovich, a 20-storey neo-classical creation built in 1928, full of upscale apartments for those unfortunate members of the wealthy classes who could not afford to build their own mansions. Two seven-storey wings, reaching towards the street, flank the main block. Once the tallest building in South America, the Mihanovich was said to have acted as a lighthouse for ships in the mouth of the Rio de la Plata. At the beginning of the millennium, it became a hotel under the French brand Sofitel, much beloved by guests, until its lease expired in 2017. Shuttered for five years, it has been taken over by Unico, a Spanish hotel group with luxury properties in Mallorca and Madrid. After a top top-to-tail renovation, the grand old building with its new livery has opened its wrought gates as the Casa Lucía in January of this year. It is Buenos Aires’ most exciting luxury hotel launch in years.

The rooms

Spacious with understated mid-century styling and a palette of restrained greys and browns, minimally decorated with B&W prints of Buenos Aires architecture. On the lower floors, ask for a room facing the street, as the other views can be a little dull. Top-class bedding, and bathrooms with a 1930’s vibe, all retro fittings and tiling. Most rooms have both baths and spacious showers. On the higher floors all the rooms enjoy splendid views across the city. On the 15th floor, there are serious suites with balconies and outdoor showers overlooking the city. A penthouse occupies the 19th and 20th floors, one of the largest and most luxurious in the city.

Food and drink

Two options stand on either side of the glass-roofed atrium lobby – Cantina and Le Club Bacan. Cantina is a classic Argentine restaurant with a polo theme and a menu predictably strong on steaks. Opposite is Le Club Bacan, an intimate sexy space of dark walls, low lighting, quirky objet d’art, and a DJ spinning chill-out sounds. The focus here is on cocktails and tapas with serious wines. Finally there is the lobby itself, an atrium drenched with light, furnished with chic chairs and small sofas beneath that wonderful glass roof. One of the clever innovations of the Casa Lucia has been to turn the end wall of the lobby, formerly the reception desks, into a long glamorous bar of underlit bottles and white-jacketed barmen, making it the perfect spot for coffee or cocktails.

The spa

It wasn’t quite ready when I was at the hotel, but we are promised a lavish affair with a full treatment menu, an elegant lounge with recliners, and a sauna. The gym is a wilderness of splendid hi-tech fitness equipment. And there is a full-length pool.

The neighbourhood

Retiro is where the old money is. Once upon a time, a century ago, Argentina was the sixth richest country in the world, and these streets were where the richest families built their mansions. Round every corner is another colossal edifice, from the Palacio Paz modelled on the Louvre to the Palacio San Martin which is so grand they had to make it into the Foreign Ministry. Casa Lucía is in Calle Arroyo, the best street in Retiro, famous for art galleries, all featuring contemporary work, and fashion houses. A cute wine bar, ProVinCia, has just opened a few steps from the hotel, featuring boutique Argentine wineries. A few steps in the other direction is the Florería Atlántico, a legend in the city that regularly features in lists of the world’s best bars. Street level is the Rotiseria Atlántico with a short but satisfying menu and great pavement tables for people watching. Next door is a ‘florist’. Step inside, open an unmarked door in the side wall, descend a flight of non-descript stairs, and you arrive in a stunning bar as glamorous and secretive as a speak-easy.

The service

Excellent. There is a sense of fresh-faced enthusiasm with the new opening, the young staff all eager to make an impression, aware that it is people more than the bricks and mortar that make a great hotel. The doormen make every return feel like a warm homecoming, and the trio of receptionists were my besties by the second day of my stay, feeding me with hot tips about Buenos Aires.

For families

The pool and spa are both open to children under 14 years old. And to keep the youngsters keen and occupied in the city, the hotel team arranges tours, cultural experiences and fun dining options for families.

Eco effort

Numerous eco initiatives are in the pipeline. Bottled water – glass bottles, of course – comes from the hotel’s own purified water. Food waste is kept to a minimum, and there is a recycling program for unused waste. The hotel’s coffee capsules are compostable, and in the Spa, products are all from brands with a record of sustainability. Finally, paper consumption has been reduced by using QR codes for menus and directories.

Accessibility

Access in public spaces is excellent for anyone with mobility issues, while all rooms are accessible via lifts. In the executive suite category, there are rooms with bathroom facilities and showers adapted for wheelchair users.

Anything left to mention?

There is always some sense of nostalgia about Buenos Aires, some memory of better days. The Casa Lucia has brought them back to life.