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To Dye For: How Toxic Fashion Is Making Us Sick--and How We Can Fight Back
A Silent Spring for your wardrobe, To Dye For is a jolting exposé that reveals the true cost of the toxic, largely unregulated chemicals found on most clothing today.
Many of us are aware of the ethical minefield that is fast the dodgy labor practices, the lax environmental standards, and the mountains of waste piling up on the shores of developing countries. But have you stopped to consider the dangerous effects your clothes are having on your own health? Award-winning journalist Alden Wicker breaks open a story hiding in plain the unregulated toxic chemicals that are likely in your wardrobe right now, how they’re harming you, and what you can do about it.
In To Dye For, Wicker reveals how clothing manufacturers have successfully swept consumers’ concerns under the rug for more than 150 years, and why synthetic fashion and dyes made from fossil fuels are so deeply intertwined with the rise of autoimmune disease, infertility, asthma, eczema, and more. In fact, there’s little to no regulation of the clothes and textiles we wear each day—from uniforms to fast fashion, outdoor gear, and even the face masks that have become ubiquitous in recent years. Wicker explains how we got here, what the stakes are, and what all of us can do in the fight for a safe and healthy wardrobe for all.
Many of us are aware of the ethical minefield that is fast the dodgy labor practices, the lax environmental standards, and the mountains of waste piling up on the shores of developing countries. But have you stopped to consider the dangerous effects your clothes are having on your own health? Award-winning journalist Alden Wicker breaks open a story hiding in plain the unregulated toxic chemicals that are likely in your wardrobe right now, how they’re harming you, and what you can do about it.
In To Dye For, Wicker reveals how clothing manufacturers have successfully swept consumers’ concerns under the rug for more than 150 years, and why synthetic fashion and dyes made from fossil fuels are so deeply intertwined with the rise of autoimmune disease, infertility, asthma, eczema, and more. In fact, there’s little to no regulation of the clothes and textiles we wear each day—from uniforms to fast fashion, outdoor gear, and even the face masks that have become ubiquitous in recent years. Wicker explains how we got here, what the stakes are, and what all of us can do in the fight for a safe and healthy wardrobe for all.
303 pages, Kindle Edition
Published June 27, 2023
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 181 reviews
January 20, 2023
This was a 4.5 star read for me (I always round half stars down).
This book was distressing in a good way. I hadn't before considered the regulations (or lack thereof) governing the textile industry, and this book opened my eyes to a major problem in desperate need of solving.
As a biologist, I'm initially skeptical when someone lays blame on chemicals and carcinogens because technically, most things are carcinogenic at some point, but this book was backed by novel and compelling research and made its point with evidence that, while it wouldn't hold up in a court of law, is convincing to me personally. I wish the author had cited more scientific studies, but as the book pointed out, such studies are either cost prohibitive or impeded by trade secrets and proprietary compounds.
I appreciated that the author called attention to the systemic racism, classism, and sexism that causes minorities to be disproportionately affected by pollution from the textile industry. However, this book was still slightly western-centric when discussing the history of toxins in textiles and industrial dysregulation. I would have liked to see a more explicit discussion of how imperialism and colonialism led to the present day situation in the garment industry.
Though specific chemicals — azo disperse dyes, PFAS, etc — were mentioned by name, the author also took the time to point out that additive and synergistic effects, including those involving chemicals we do not or cannot identify, may also play a part in the way chemicals in textiles harm people. A larger ecosystem involving the chemical industry at large was touched on briefly, which caused me to wonder about how the toxins in textiles may synergize with toxins from other objects in our everyday lives. I suppose that may be beyond the scope of this book, but I would be curious to see this author or someone else investigate this in fuller detail.
I also liked that the book ended both with what we as individuals and as part of a larger society can do to better our lives and the textile industry as a whole. The conclusion of the book — the end of the story of the flight attendants, however, left me feeling more helpless than empowered. It is difficult to be an individual in the face of worldwide issues. Perhaps I am meant to feel angry instead of overwhelmed. Perhaps that anger is supposed to galvanize a revolution in the garment industry. I can only hope it does.
At any rate, this book has changed how I will shop for textiles in the future.
Thanks to NetGalley and Penguin Group Putnam for providing me with an ARC in exchange for my honest review.
This book was distressing in a good way. I hadn't before considered the regulations (or lack thereof) governing the textile industry, and this book opened my eyes to a major problem in desperate need of solving.
As a biologist, I'm initially skeptical when someone lays blame on chemicals and carcinogens because technically, most things are carcinogenic at some point, but this book was backed by novel and compelling research and made its point with evidence that, while it wouldn't hold up in a court of law, is convincing to me personally. I wish the author had cited more scientific studies, but as the book pointed out, such studies are either cost prohibitive or impeded by trade secrets and proprietary compounds.
I appreciated that the author called attention to the systemic racism, classism, and sexism that causes minorities to be disproportionately affected by pollution from the textile industry. However, this book was still slightly western-centric when discussing the history of toxins in textiles and industrial dysregulation. I would have liked to see a more explicit discussion of how imperialism and colonialism led to the present day situation in the garment industry.
Though specific chemicals — azo disperse dyes, PFAS, etc — were mentioned by name, the author also took the time to point out that additive and synergistic effects, including those involving chemicals we do not or cannot identify, may also play a part in the way chemicals in textiles harm people. A larger ecosystem involving the chemical industry at large was touched on briefly, which caused me to wonder about how the toxins in textiles may synergize with toxins from other objects in our everyday lives. I suppose that may be beyond the scope of this book, but I would be curious to see this author or someone else investigate this in fuller detail.
I also liked that the book ended both with what we as individuals and as part of a larger society can do to better our lives and the textile industry as a whole. The conclusion of the book — the end of the story of the flight attendants, however, left me feeling more helpless than empowered. It is difficult to be an individual in the face of worldwide issues. Perhaps I am meant to feel angry instead of overwhelmed. Perhaps that anger is supposed to galvanize a revolution in the garment industry. I can only hope it does.
At any rate, this book has changed how I will shop for textiles in the future.
Thanks to NetGalley and Penguin Group Putnam for providing me with an ARC in exchange for my honest review.
May 20, 2023
Okay, I’ll be honest - this book scared me. Throughout most of the book, the evidence given is overwhelming: chemicals used on our clothing are making us sick - and worse. The author presents extensive research (notes and references at the end of the book) to make her case. The culprits? Industrial shortcuts, inadequate testing, a mish-mash of regulations in different countries, and just plain ignorance. Consumers say they want clothes that are fashion-forward, easy to wear, waterproof, sweat proof, wrinkle proof….and although I’m sure nobody would say that they want poison in their clothes, that’s what they get when they expect all of these amenities at an affordable price. At least, the brands would say that using these chemicals is necessary to meet consumer needs.
The good news is, there are people working very hard to make changes in these conditions, and there’s a lot we can do as well. Among the suggestions Wicker makes include washing clothes before wearing them, avoiding dry cleaning, using fragrance free laundry products and sending back any item that smells funny.
This is an important book - almost too much to digest, but important nonetheless.
Thanks to the publisher and NetGalley for the advance reader’s copy in exchange for my honest review.
The good news is, there are people working very hard to make changes in these conditions, and there’s a lot we can do as well. Among the suggestions Wicker makes include washing clothes before wearing them, avoiding dry cleaning, using fragrance free laundry products and sending back any item that smells funny.
This is an important book - almost too much to digest, but important nonetheless.
Thanks to the publisher and NetGalley for the advance reader’s copy in exchange for my honest review.
May 29, 2023
I was already not a fan of fast fashion or synthetic fibers but after reading this I am a full blown crunchy mom. Unfortunately, even if you thrift avoiding toxic clothing is unaffordable and unattainable for most people. I love how the author stayed on topic. This is a book about toxins in clothing. That's it. And it is a good book about toxins in clothing.
We should all be knowledgeable about this.
We should all be knowledgeable about this.
December 11, 2023
I’m about to turn everyone I know against clothes
July 10, 2023
I don't think anyone will be shocked to discover that much of the fashion we consume is full of harmful substances. Wicker does an excellent job bringing home the reality that fast fashion is not just an unfortunate problem for the underpaid and overworked slaves in countries like India and China - it is a toxic reality for everyone. Not only does fast fashion create mountains of waste, that waste is toxic and it is impacting our health and the health of our children. She also does a good job pointing out the intersectional aspects of fast fashion - from who is most impacted to who gets the most flack (hint: it's not the rich white men who own these enterprises). I enjoyed the chapter that traces the history of toxic fashion - although I really wish this book had footnotes rather than just short mentions in-text to other works done on the topic. The book ends with advice on what and how to buy and advice for larger systemic change.
September 16, 2023
This is a must read for everybody, but especially women who are currently struggling with major health issues [some of the toxic dyes and chemicals are filled with endocrine blockers and can affect women in ALL areas of their lives] and love "fast fashion" [something I don't subscribe to - I have clothes that are over 20 years old, but I have learned that even some of my newer clothes could be problematic {we have figured out the rash I get on my back is RIGHT where the stamp is on my bra and now I am making homemade cotton patches to sew over them; good times] and I am checking them out]; what I learned about this "throwaway clothes" culture and the laxity of regulation for dyes and chemicals within that culture is both deeply saddening and terrifically horrifying - as someone who has multiple chemical and environmental sensitivities and allergies, I have been researching this area for years and I still learned SO MUCH [and now am terrified and am looking into how to resource better clothes for myself] and I have to say, much of it, from the industry POV, isn't good.
The clothes/material industry [did you know that most clothes have a minimum of TEN chemicals on them when you buy them? And that the author, through research, recommends that one should wash their clothes 3-4 times BEFORE wearing them after purchase? While I ALWAYS wash before wearing, I never knew it should be multiple times] MUST do better and we, as the consumers truly have the power to change things, but we also MUST be willing to change to make it happen. Until then, we will all continue to suffer the consequences of toxic clothes.
I have to thank Alden Wicker for her years of research into this crazy [and extremely private and shadowy world] world and life of toxicity and sensitivities and then writing this book so we all can both be aware and join in the fight against the practices that are making us ill, "PENGUIN GROUP Putnam/G.P. Putnam's Sons and NetGalley for providing this ARC in exchange for an honest review.
The clothes/material industry [did you know that most clothes have a minimum of TEN chemicals on them when you buy them? And that the author, through research, recommends that one should wash their clothes 3-4 times BEFORE wearing them after purchase? While I ALWAYS wash before wearing, I never knew it should be multiple times] MUST do better and we, as the consumers truly have the power to change things, but we also MUST be willing to change to make it happen. Until then, we will all continue to suffer the consequences of toxic clothes.
I have to thank Alden Wicker for her years of research into this crazy [and extremely private and shadowy world] world and life of toxicity and sensitivities and then writing this book so we all can both be aware and join in the fight against the practices that are making us ill, "PENGUIN GROUP Putnam/G.P. Putnam's Sons and NetGalley for providing this ARC in exchange for an honest review.
September 28, 2023
WOW! What an eye opener. If UPFs(ultra processed foods) and EMFs (electromagnetic fields) don't get us the dyes in our clothes and chemicals in our food and drink containers will. Ugh! Thanks to the manufacturers bottom line and our government turning their heads, our younger generations don't stand a chance.
February 25, 2024
Not me now thinking about all of the chemicals on me…. overwhelming amount of info
November 14, 2023
Important topic to learn about but I didn’t feel like I was left with much to do about it
October 30, 2023
This book is horrifying and everyone should read it. It was thoroughly researched and shared illustrative examples of lackadaisical governments, safeguarding corporate profits, and consumerism.
July 4, 2023
Reading To Dye For by Alden Wicker, I felt like I was reading the 21st century incarnation of Rachel Carson's Silent Spring or Upton Sinclair's The Jungle--a book of investigative journalism with the power to blow the lid off industry corruption and change the world.
It sounds like hyperbole, but not only do I recommend this book to every costumer, garment-maker, cosplayer, sewing enthusiast, fashion maven, and clothing designer, but I honestly think every fabric wearing human should read it.
You may be wondering (as was I), how can our clothing poison us? Upon consideration, I recalled the legendary "arsenic green" dyes discovered and marketed in the mid-19th century, and Wicker elaborates upon the myriad ways dyes, finishes, and other properties of 21st-century "high performance" textiles can contain hidden dangers.
I learned of the book via this article, an overview of the toxicity of flight crew uniforms, written by the author in the Guardian. And in fact the book opens with an in-depth consideration of the plight of flight attendants on several airlines, poisoned by their redesigned and remade new uniforms.
Subsequent chapters concern the history of toxicity in clothing items (going back literally millennia!), why azo (polyester) dyes are different from prior toxic dyes like aniline dyes and "arsenic green", hazards of performance finishes like stain resistance/flame retardants/wrinkle resistance, and a great (hopeful) chapter on how to change your habits to protect yourself and work for industry change.
The book concludes by returning to the various airline professionals whose cases she opened the book with, following up with how their conditions have progressed in the intervening years. And (SPOILER) their cases are not conclusive or cut-and-dried. The very nature of their plight makes for indecisive outcomes and no singly culpable substance or chemical. Industries argue (correctly) that it's anecdotal. But a preponderance of anecdotal evidence in this instance is significant and worth consideration.
Their stories and the book in general are epic and alarming yet not without hope. I have a tendency to gawk at disaster, so I read the book in a single-day marathon. If you're more sensitive to Epic Bad, you might need to read it in digestible bits over time.
But I'm serious when I say, every clothes-wearing American [1] needs to read this book and make informed decisions about their sewn-product purchasing choices.
Directors and designers for any theatre that aspires to sustainable practices must inform themselves about the depth and breadth of the textile industry, and this book is an excellent source for not only some fairly disturbing facts but also some strategies for developing best-practice goals.
[1] Some of the info concerns global fashion production, but all the regulations/controls cited are US-specific. So I suppose the book might be a work of Schadenfreude for nations with more stringent regulations on clothing toxicity.
It sounds like hyperbole, but not only do I recommend this book to every costumer, garment-maker, cosplayer, sewing enthusiast, fashion maven, and clothing designer, but I honestly think every fabric wearing human should read it.
You may be wondering (as was I), how can our clothing poison us? Upon consideration, I recalled the legendary "arsenic green" dyes discovered and marketed in the mid-19th century, and Wicker elaborates upon the myriad ways dyes, finishes, and other properties of 21st-century "high performance" textiles can contain hidden dangers.
I learned of the book via this article, an overview of the toxicity of flight crew uniforms, written by the author in the Guardian. And in fact the book opens with an in-depth consideration of the plight of flight attendants on several airlines, poisoned by their redesigned and remade new uniforms.
Subsequent chapters concern the history of toxicity in clothing items (going back literally millennia!), why azo (polyester) dyes are different from prior toxic dyes like aniline dyes and "arsenic green", hazards of performance finishes like stain resistance/flame retardants/wrinkle resistance, and a great (hopeful) chapter on how to change your habits to protect yourself and work for industry change.
The book concludes by returning to the various airline professionals whose cases she opened the book with, following up with how their conditions have progressed in the intervening years. And (SPOILER) their cases are not conclusive or cut-and-dried. The very nature of their plight makes for indecisive outcomes and no singly culpable substance or chemical. Industries argue (correctly) that it's anecdotal. But a preponderance of anecdotal evidence in this instance is significant and worth consideration.
Their stories and the book in general are epic and alarming yet not without hope. I have a tendency to gawk at disaster, so I read the book in a single-day marathon. If you're more sensitive to Epic Bad, you might need to read it in digestible bits over time.
But I'm serious when I say, every clothes-wearing American [1] needs to read this book and make informed decisions about their sewn-product purchasing choices.
Directors and designers for any theatre that aspires to sustainable practices must inform themselves about the depth and breadth of the textile industry, and this book is an excellent source for not only some fairly disturbing facts but also some strategies for developing best-practice goals.
[1] Some of the info concerns global fashion production, but all the regulations/controls cited are US-specific. So I suppose the book might be a work of Schadenfreude for nations with more stringent regulations on clothing toxicity.
July 17, 2023
This book is so, so important and a wake up call to consumers of fashion (everyone). I heard of this book through the author’s TikTok post, when she described how her television interview was canceled 20 minutes before it was supposed to air due to legal reasons. Why would someone hire lawyers to silence an author? The information in this book holds the answer.
Unlike food, there is no specific ingredients label for clothes in terms of which chemicals and dyes treat them. Basically, there are multiple chemicals for fabric add-ons that make clothing wrinkle-free, stain-free, waterproof, and fireproof. The mix of these chemicals get into our bodies through our skin and dust in the air and can cause reactions such as asthma, eczema, infertility, autoimmune diseases, or worse. In children, these reactions can inhibit future growth. But companies often skirt around existing laws, or laws don’t exist to protect us from these practices.
Heads-up, this book contains descriptions of animal testing, graphic ailments, and death.
I really hope this book goes as viral as her TikTok, because consumers need to know, and governments need to act.
Unlike food, there is no specific ingredients label for clothes in terms of which chemicals and dyes treat them. Basically, there are multiple chemicals for fabric add-ons that make clothing wrinkle-free, stain-free, waterproof, and fireproof. The mix of these chemicals get into our bodies through our skin and dust in the air and can cause reactions such as asthma, eczema, infertility, autoimmune diseases, or worse. In children, these reactions can inhibit future growth. But companies often skirt around existing laws, or laws don’t exist to protect us from these practices.
Heads-up, this book contains descriptions of animal testing, graphic ailments, and death.
I really hope this book goes as viral as her TikTok, because consumers need to know, and governments need to act.
August 14, 2023
The information in this book is vitally important. It was well-researched and the stories were eye-opening. My problem is that it feels hopeless and too long. Eventually, it seemed to get repetitive and I was having a hard time distinguishing how topics were different. The actionable steps were saved to the end, but I wanted more that consumers could do. She has more faith in the government and industry than I do - I don't think advocacy will change this when billionaires are behind clothing construction.
If this had been 100 pages shorter, it probably would have been a 5-star for me.
If this had been 100 pages shorter, it probably would have been a 5-star for me.
July 31, 2023
Interesting and alarming information presented like a sorority sister’s first research paper. Lots of distracting filler dialogue, unnecessary information, and personal anecdotes that fail to contribute to the story or the message. Avoid the audio book at all costs.
December 15, 2023
You are probably dimly aware that all the products we use day in and day out contain harmful, toxic chemicals that cause autoimmune illnesses, skin conditions, neurological disorders, endocrine/reproductive troubles and even cancer/death. Yet, you probably don’t overly dwell on these evils and may go so far as to smirk at those who search to eliminate these toxins and anything not organic from their lives. Luckily, I live in California where Prop 65 requires all products/services/dwellings to disclose any use or containment of a hazardous material. Companies, brand and businesses can be sued by any civilian if found to be toxic without a label declaration. Did you know, however, that our CLOTHES we wear, work, play and sleep in are FILLED with these toxic chemicals beginning with the dying/process all the way to shipping/imports? Your clothes are literally killing you and the US government is aware but simply doesn’t care as it is barely regulated (unlike, of course, Europe which takes a stricter stance in the matter).
In fact, I own pieces of clothing which were recently involved in a class action litigation due to undisclosed toxic chemicals but I continue to wear them and was rather excited about the cash check I received (this case is mentioned in this book). It is due time that the general audience is made better aware of this alarming situation. This is precisely the goal of award-winning investigative journalist Alden Wicker in, “To Dye For: How Toxic Fashion is Making Us Sick – And How We Can Fight Back”.
“To Dye For” is a combination journalistic and industry exposé partitioned into sections exploring the who, what, why, how, and where of the world of toxic dyes and chemicals on our textiles/clothing. Wicker introduces a history of the toxic use of chemicals within the fashion industry and clothing production; alongside the current status and case studies to mesh together a critical social concern with that of complex science. In this way, readers are educated using hard-hitting evidence while also finally removing their blinders on how the fashion industry and the government are essentially trying to kill us without any empathy; due to an eye on profits. Even though “To Dye For” is filled with chemical formulas, names and jargon; Wicker’s writing style melds a smooth, fast narrative that is easy-to-read, absorb and grasp even for the Average Joe- reader. In this way, “To Dye For” is the ideal method to truly gain attention to this grave subject.
In the primary chapters of “To Dye For”, Wicker is ever-so-slightly clumsy with her journalism bouncing back-and-forth between her sub-headings causing some reader frustration and confusion. These threads are always revisited and come full circle; plus, Wicker finds her flow in writing but the weakness can’t be ignored.
Wicker is a wealth of knowledge in “To Dye For” awakening readers who know little on the topic and successfully causes them to re-think EVERYTHING around them, to never be viewed the same way again. The text is certainly a conversation-starter in an objective and credible manner as Wicker doesn’t insert any personal bias into the text and doesn’t garner any person gain, either way (although, obviously, she is on the side of the common man and not the fashion industry).
The hiccup in “To Dye For” arises in an evidence of repetition both when discussing individual cases and the material as a whole. Often, Wicker is simply expressing the same idea or situation but in a new way causing the reader to want to respond, “We get it!” and yet there is a missing sense of urgency which would be expected of a multifarious, dire situation that effects everyone around the world on all rungs of the social ladder. This is a conflicting dichotomy that is a slight hindrance and handicap to “To Dye For”.
After the principal discussion of toxic chemicals and dyes in clothing; Wicker moves into help mode offering tips on how to eliminate these health hazards from everyday lives. These suggestions take into consideration that income is the primary barrier of entry into these ‘fixes’ and therefore Wicker is reasonable with her forays. Wicker also presents changes directed toward the fashion companies and government as she emphasizes that they are the faulted characters in this story and not the consumer so therefore it is they that should be held liable to make positive shifts rather than on the common individual level.
Wicker concludes “To Dye For” with a conclusion that revisits and reflects upon all the case studies in the former portion of the text with updates wrapping up “To Dye For” in a solid and sensible way. This is followed by a glossary of terms (with page listings) and a combination notes/source list.
“To Dye For” is a quick read but heady with information that exposes the censorious reality of the fashion/textiles industry and is important to both new readers of the subject and those with some understanding but seeking more background. “To Dye For” isn’t flawless but is still a concrete text that stands above much of the crowd.
Note: I want to leave you with something to ponder from Wicker (p.10), “At least forty thousand chemicals are used commercially world-wide, yet only a small percentage of them have been checked for human and animal safety”. Let that sink in…
In fact, I own pieces of clothing which were recently involved in a class action litigation due to undisclosed toxic chemicals but I continue to wear them and was rather excited about the cash check I received (this case is mentioned in this book). It is due time that the general audience is made better aware of this alarming situation. This is precisely the goal of award-winning investigative journalist Alden Wicker in, “To Dye For: How Toxic Fashion is Making Us Sick – And How We Can Fight Back”.
“To Dye For” is a combination journalistic and industry exposé partitioned into sections exploring the who, what, why, how, and where of the world of toxic dyes and chemicals on our textiles/clothing. Wicker introduces a history of the toxic use of chemicals within the fashion industry and clothing production; alongside the current status and case studies to mesh together a critical social concern with that of complex science. In this way, readers are educated using hard-hitting evidence while also finally removing their blinders on how the fashion industry and the government are essentially trying to kill us without any empathy; due to an eye on profits. Even though “To Dye For” is filled with chemical formulas, names and jargon; Wicker’s writing style melds a smooth, fast narrative that is easy-to-read, absorb and grasp even for the Average Joe- reader. In this way, “To Dye For” is the ideal method to truly gain attention to this grave subject.
In the primary chapters of “To Dye For”, Wicker is ever-so-slightly clumsy with her journalism bouncing back-and-forth between her sub-headings causing some reader frustration and confusion. These threads are always revisited and come full circle; plus, Wicker finds her flow in writing but the weakness can’t be ignored.
Wicker is a wealth of knowledge in “To Dye For” awakening readers who know little on the topic and successfully causes them to re-think EVERYTHING around them, to never be viewed the same way again. The text is certainly a conversation-starter in an objective and credible manner as Wicker doesn’t insert any personal bias into the text and doesn’t garner any person gain, either way (although, obviously, she is on the side of the common man and not the fashion industry).
The hiccup in “To Dye For” arises in an evidence of repetition both when discussing individual cases and the material as a whole. Often, Wicker is simply expressing the same idea or situation but in a new way causing the reader to want to respond, “We get it!” and yet there is a missing sense of urgency which would be expected of a multifarious, dire situation that effects everyone around the world on all rungs of the social ladder. This is a conflicting dichotomy that is a slight hindrance and handicap to “To Dye For”.
After the principal discussion of toxic chemicals and dyes in clothing; Wicker moves into help mode offering tips on how to eliminate these health hazards from everyday lives. These suggestions take into consideration that income is the primary barrier of entry into these ‘fixes’ and therefore Wicker is reasonable with her forays. Wicker also presents changes directed toward the fashion companies and government as she emphasizes that they are the faulted characters in this story and not the consumer so therefore it is they that should be held liable to make positive shifts rather than on the common individual level.
Wicker concludes “To Dye For” with a conclusion that revisits and reflects upon all the case studies in the former portion of the text with updates wrapping up “To Dye For” in a solid and sensible way. This is followed by a glossary of terms (with page listings) and a combination notes/source list.
“To Dye For” is a quick read but heady with information that exposes the censorious reality of the fashion/textiles industry and is important to both new readers of the subject and those with some understanding but seeking more background. “To Dye For” isn’t flawless but is still a concrete text that stands above much of the crowd.
Note: I want to leave you with something to ponder from Wicker (p.10), “At least forty thousand chemicals are used commercially world-wide, yet only a small percentage of them have been checked for human and animal safety”. Let that sink in…
January 4, 2024
The entry point for this book is the flight attendant uniforms poisoning employees, and Wicker pairs that well with historical examples of dye/chemical poisoning (hatter mercury poisoning, Scheele's Green, etc.). I know some people might come to this from the crunchy granola camp, but it doesn't read like crunchy granola - it reads like something that sets the scene for Erin Brockovich 2. This hit a nice spot for my ADHD brain for hyperfixation (I previously had hyperfixations on Scheele's Green) and it's a very quick, relatively easy read. Wicker is straightforward and has a good mix of historical & contemporary case studies, as well as scientific explanations.
At the end of the book she does provide some advice for how to shop "smarter", but I really appreciate how blunt she is that being able to do so includes a lot of privilege. I like that the onus is on "we need to legislate, ban, and test our way out of the problem, not put the responsibility on consumers." There is a lot of privilege around these issues, and she highlights that people of color are often the most at risk for a variety of reasons. It was refreshing to see the problem addressed in a relatively scientific way that recognizes privilege, disparities among communities, and calls for systemic change starting at the top, not shaming individual consumers.
At the end of the book she does provide some advice for how to shop "smarter", but I really appreciate how blunt she is that being able to do so includes a lot of privilege. I like that the onus is on "we need to legislate, ban, and test our way out of the problem, not put the responsibility on consumers." There is a lot of privilege around these issues, and she highlights that people of color are often the most at risk for a variety of reasons. It was refreshing to see the problem addressed in a relatively scientific way that recognizes privilege, disparities among communities, and calls for systemic change starting at the top, not shaming individual consumers.
December 13, 2023
Alarming. Maddening. Heartbreaking.
I will be taking copious notes from this book and referring to it often!
It really paints a well-researched picture of much that is wrong with the fashion industry, healthcare, and government and corporate systems. It’s vital that we believe people about their health and pursue more education and chemical research!!
Ps. Stop buying synthetics, friends!!
I will be taking copious notes from this book and referring to it often!
It really paints a well-researched picture of much that is wrong with the fashion industry, healthcare, and government and corporate systems. It’s vital that we believe people about their health and pursue more education and chemical research!!
Ps. Stop buying synthetics, friends!!
February 7, 2024
In To Dye For, Wicker takes aim at how the modern manufacturing process of clothing, from the use of synthetic materials to construct garments, to chemical dyes, to post-processing coatings or treatments applied to make clothing sweat-wicking, wrinkle-resistant, fire-retardant, etc., can lead to adverse reactions in a significant amount of the population. While she does travel to India to research the deleterious health effects on garment workers, much of her book is focused on cases in the US, particularly flight attendants who have developed serious allergic reactions to their company-mandated uniforms, which in extreme cases have led to permanent disabilities and loss of employment.
As a scientist and doctor, I have mixed feelings about this book. Allergies are definitely real, there are certainly more allergic triggers in the modern world than in prior centuries, and chronic inflammation can predispose sufferers to developing autoimmune disease and cancer. There are emerging links supported in clinical research between how modern industrial processes used to make food are deleterious to our health, and many stories of how occupational or residential exposures to high levels of toxic materials can have devastating health effects have been documented (see further reading below). Still, I felt the overall tone of this book was alarmist and reactionary. Not all synthetic materials are uniformly or inherently bad/unhealthy/allergy-inducing for all people, so more nuance is needed before we discard our wardrobes, laundry detergents, etc. and go all-natural, unscented, etc.
Further reading:
Ultra-Processed People: The Science Behind Food That Isn't Food by Chris van Tulleken
The Radium Girls: The Dark Story of America’s Shining Women by Kate Moore
Allergic: Our Irritated Bodies in a Changing World by Theresa MacPhail
Toms River: A Story of Science and Salvation by Dan Fagin
Worn: A People's History of Clothing by Sofi Thanhauser
The Conscious Closet: The Revolutionary Guide to Looking Good While Doing Good
As a scientist and doctor, I have mixed feelings about this book. Allergies are definitely real, there are certainly more allergic triggers in the modern world than in prior centuries, and chronic inflammation can predispose sufferers to developing autoimmune disease and cancer. There are emerging links supported in clinical research between how modern industrial processes used to make food are deleterious to our health, and many stories of how occupational or residential exposures to high levels of toxic materials can have devastating health effects have been documented (see further reading below). Still, I felt the overall tone of this book was alarmist and reactionary. Not all synthetic materials are uniformly or inherently bad/unhealthy/allergy-inducing for all people, so more nuance is needed before we discard our wardrobes, laundry detergents, etc. and go all-natural, unscented, etc.
Further reading:
Ultra-Processed People: The Science Behind Food That Isn't Food by Chris van Tulleken
The Radium Girls: The Dark Story of America’s Shining Women by Kate Moore
Allergic: Our Irritated Bodies in a Changing World by Theresa MacPhail
Toms River: A Story of Science and Salvation by Dan Fagin
Worn: A People's History of Clothing by Sofi Thanhauser
The Conscious Closet: The Revolutionary Guide to Looking Good While Doing Good
November 8, 2023
Alarming data about the toxins in our clothes. Problem is they are everywhere.
June 7, 2023
Alden Wicker’s introduction to To Dye For chronicles the lives of flight attendants and other airline workers becoming strangely ill from their work uniforms. This opens up a bigger discussion of “what are our clothes doing to our bodies?” and leads into a severely informative and shocking exposé of the fashion industry.
I took my time with this one to make sure I was fully absorbing all of the information in the text and I still am in shock. The stories of the people affected by these clothes and how much it altered their lives was seriously eye opening. Super important read for anyone interested in fashion and environmental topics.
Thank you to NetGalley and Putnam Group Penguin for the e-ARC!
I took my time with this one to make sure I was fully absorbing all of the information in the text and I still am in shock. The stories of the people affected by these clothes and how much it altered their lives was seriously eye opening. Super important read for anyone interested in fashion and environmental topics.
Thank you to NetGalley and Putnam Group Penguin for the e-ARC!
December 5, 2022
This is one of my favorite types of books to read: a quick summary of a topic we may not know much about as a regular consumer but would benefit greatly from knowing more on.
In To Dye For, Alden Wicker, author of the website EcoCult, takes a deep dive into the history and current state of toxicity in fashion, looking at the materials, dyes, and coatings used to make our clothing. Much of the focus is on airline uniforms worn in the US, by employees of almost every major carrier.
Wicker uses much of the book to explore the chemistry behind these chemicals, which leave us with horrific side effects ranging from rashes and scarring, to endocrine disruption, breathing issues, and even death. She concludes with a list of things we as consumers can do to minimize our risk, as well as calls for industry reforms and acknowledgments.
This is an interesting read that may not interest every layperson, but would be a great read for anyone. It is especially important for people struggling with skin or breathing problems, allergies, or reproductive issues, but I think anyone who enjoys consumer nonfiction would enjoy it. To keep things publishing-friendly, Wicker does not name or shame too much, which I can understand, but I would appreciate more on ethical companies big and small.
My thanks to NetGalley, Alden Wicker, and PENGUIN GROUP Putnam, G.P. Putnam's Sons for the eARC in exchange for an honest review.
In To Dye For, Alden Wicker, author of the website EcoCult, takes a deep dive into the history and current state of toxicity in fashion, looking at the materials, dyes, and coatings used to make our clothing. Much of the focus is on airline uniforms worn in the US, by employees of almost every major carrier.
Wicker uses much of the book to explore the chemistry behind these chemicals, which leave us with horrific side effects ranging from rashes and scarring, to endocrine disruption, breathing issues, and even death. She concludes with a list of things we as consumers can do to minimize our risk, as well as calls for industry reforms and acknowledgments.
This is an interesting read that may not interest every layperson, but would be a great read for anyone. It is especially important for people struggling with skin or breathing problems, allergies, or reproductive issues, but I think anyone who enjoys consumer nonfiction would enjoy it. To keep things publishing-friendly, Wicker does not name or shame too much, which I can understand, but I would appreciate more on ethical companies big and small.
My thanks to NetGalley, Alden Wicker, and PENGUIN GROUP Putnam, G.P. Putnam's Sons for the eARC in exchange for an honest review.
September 7, 2023
This book, which basically describes how our clothes are poisoning us, starts out with a disturbing bang. She shares several stories of people, mostly flight attendants, who recount how they became sick, sometimes to the point of incapacitation, from the noxious chemicals used in their uniforms.
It started to fizzle for me around halfway through, though. It was so heavy in chemical jargon that my brain went into overload, especially because I was listening to the audiobook and it was too hard to keep all of the chemical names straight.
My takeaway is that almost everything we wear contains some level of toxicity, no brands can be 100% trusted, and just because companies claim their stuff is safe, it doesn’t mean it is. It sounds like we’d need to grow our own cotton and buy a loom if we want to make sure our clothing is free and clear.
I don’t want to sound like I’m discounting the author’s research or saying it’s not something we should be discussing, but I’m definitely left feeling overwhelmed, like this might be a rabbit hole that’s a little too deep for me right now.
September 13, 2023
I'm leaving 2 stars because I returned the audiobook about 10 minutes in.
After the crunchy diatribe about how the author only buys organic and all natural everything I just had 0 interest and figured there'd be more than a touch of scientific illiteracy here... and reviews noting that it's light on data but heavy on anecdotes aren't reassuring.
I don't doubt that something is up with those uniforms, and the textile industry writ large, (there's no argument that it is abusing workers, exposing them to poisons, and then dumping those materials rampantly- before the clothing ships out to shed microplastics into watersheds all over the world) but I'd rather look up the case on my own without hearing about it all filtered through the lens of general chemophobia.
After the crunchy diatribe about how the author only buys organic and all natural everything I just had 0 interest and figured there'd be more than a touch of scientific illiteracy here... and reviews noting that it's light on data but heavy on anecdotes aren't reassuring.
I don't doubt that something is up with those uniforms, and the textile industry writ large, (there's no argument that it is abusing workers, exposing them to poisons, and then dumping those materials rampantly- before the clothing ships out to shed microplastics into watersheds all over the world) but I'd rather look up the case on my own without hearing about it all filtered through the lens of general chemophobia.
January 23, 2024
I loved this book at first. But it is super thorough and because of that gets extremely repetitive. I finally just started skipping ahead because I was reading the same story over and over again. In the end I couldn’t finish it. It’s very well researched and has really good info, but for me personally it was so hard to get through and I just wish she would get to the point a little quicker toward the end. I feel like the book could be cut in half….
January 6, 2024
It’s common in today’s day and age to pay attention to what we are putting in and on our bodies, but what about what they wear? In “To Dye For” Alden Wicker goes in depth behind the scenes to how our clothes are made. She peels back the curtain to reveal why what’s in our closet may be making us sick. It was well documented and well researched material presented in an engaging and compelling way.
I appreciated how in the end Wicker gave some common tips on how to mitigate our exposure to toxins. She addressed simple things like washing our new clothes to more complex like the fabrics and colors to watch out for.
I disagreed with Wicker in some of her solutions when it comes to government intervention. While I agree that those who do harm (especially intentionally) should be punished, I also believe that the government shouldn’t be the one that decides what is safe and what’s not. The more power we give to the government under the guise of keeping us safe, the more freedom we loose and the less safe we actually are (we saw that horrible situation happen in 2020 when they made us strap PFAS on our face among other things).
I also didn’t appreciate some of her unfounded asides near the end that seemed to imply that the straight white male is the problem (which she provided no evidence for).
Other than the last little bit and some of her more liberal leaning, I thought it was a good book. Definitely worth the read for the information. Just gotta sift through some irrelevant stuff in some places and perhaps agree to disagree with some of the solutions.
I appreciated how in the end Wicker gave some common tips on how to mitigate our exposure to toxins. She addressed simple things like washing our new clothes to more complex like the fabrics and colors to watch out for.
I disagreed with Wicker in some of her solutions when it comes to government intervention. While I agree that those who do harm (especially intentionally) should be punished, I also believe that the government shouldn’t be the one that decides what is safe and what’s not. The more power we give to the government under the guise of keeping us safe, the more freedom we loose and the less safe we actually are (we saw that horrible situation happen in 2020 when they made us strap PFAS on our face among other things).
I also didn’t appreciate some of her unfounded asides near the end that seemed to imply that the straight white male is the problem (which she provided no evidence for).
Other than the last little bit and some of her more liberal leaning, I thought it was a good book. Definitely worth the read for the information. Just gotta sift through some irrelevant stuff in some places and perhaps agree to disagree with some of the solutions.
December 18, 2023
It was terrifying & shocking to learn about how toxic our clothes are and how many chemicals we are exposed to everyday, but interesting to read this after having worked in the fashion industry. Although I came into reading this book with previous knowledge about the ZDHC and RSLs, I learned so much that the fashion industry is most definitely NOT talking about.
Takeaways -
- PFAS is everywhere and it’s toxic as fuck. It never goes away and that’s why it is known as a “forever chemical”
- The most toxic parts of synthetic materials are the dyes and finishes that we put on them, not the material itself
- There is no “safe” dose of endocrine disruptors - we need a total ban of these in consumer products & fashion
- Toxic fashion is an interconnected and holistic problem that impacts autoimmune disease, infertility, etc.
- Tune in when your body is sending you wake the fuck up calls - ex. Noticing a skin reaction after wearing a specific shirt, etc.
- Buy clothing made of traditional, natural fibers and buy secondhand
Takeaways -
- PFAS is everywhere and it’s toxic as fuck. It never goes away and that’s why it is known as a “forever chemical”
- The most toxic parts of synthetic materials are the dyes and finishes that we put on them, not the material itself
- There is no “safe” dose of endocrine disruptors - we need a total ban of these in consumer products & fashion
- Toxic fashion is an interconnected and holistic problem that impacts autoimmune disease, infertility, etc.
- Tune in when your body is sending you wake the fuck up calls - ex. Noticing a skin reaction after wearing a specific shirt, etc.
- Buy clothing made of traditional, natural fibers and buy secondhand
June 1, 2024
Do you wear clothes? If so, then you should read this. While there is increasingly more and more written about how things like food and environment affect our health, fashion has largely been kept in the dark. Like everything else corporations control and touch, we are consuming a myriad of toxic clothing, much of which is poisoning us in ways we aren't even aware of.
Alden Wicker does a great job here by making this book fully accessible to the average reader. She's a journalist, not a scientist. One of the biggest obstacles scientists face is communicating complex issues to the broad public. When a scientist does have the ability to do so, it can make a tremendous impact like we saw with Silent Spring. This book isn't going to give you all the answers because we've just started to uncover a lot of what Wicker writes about in To Dye For. But at the very least, it will get you to be more conscious of what you buy and what you wear.
Alden Wicker does a great job here by making this book fully accessible to the average reader. She's a journalist, not a scientist. One of the biggest obstacles scientists face is communicating complex issues to the broad public. When a scientist does have the ability to do so, it can make a tremendous impact like we saw with Silent Spring. This book isn't going to give you all the answers because we've just started to uncover a lot of what Wicker writes about in To Dye For. But at the very least, it will get you to be more conscious of what you buy and what you wear.
December 16, 2023
I didn't need to be convinced that chemicals in textiles are making us sick — I reacted to a linen/organic cotton blend that I bought for my zero waste fashion business, reacted so much that I've spent most of 2023 either in a flare or recovering from a flare. So unfortunately I have first-hand experience with the topic of Alden Wicker's book.
But it's really heartening to hear that I'm not overly sensitive, that I'm not alone, and that this isn't a problem with ME, it's a problem with the greater fashion industry. And I'm super happy to be able to have a book I can share with friends to explain what's going on.
This book is horrific in places, unsurprising, educational, practical and very much worth reading if you wear clothes.
But it's really heartening to hear that I'm not overly sensitive, that I'm not alone, and that this isn't a problem with ME, it's a problem with the greater fashion industry. And I'm super happy to be able to have a book I can share with friends to explain what's going on.
This book is horrific in places, unsurprising, educational, practical and very much worth reading if you wear clothes.
August 25, 2024
It’s not just about the workers in the clothes factories: the clothes we wear can poison us. They are dyed with poisonous chemicals under little control and these chemicals keep leaching off and onto us. Most people aren’t overly sensitive, but the ones that are can suffer tremendously, as shown in this book.
The author tests a lot of clothes and most of these tests come back within the limits. However, the limits are often arbitrarily set. Most important: no one ever tests for combinations of harmful chemicals. This is a problem that crops all over the place, also with food additives. Any new chemical, be it a dye or a food additive, is considered harmless until proven otherwise and no one ever considers the problem of compounding effects due to many poisons working together.
The author tests a lot of clothes and most of these tests come back within the limits. However, the limits are often arbitrarily set. Most important: no one ever tests for combinations of harmful chemicals. This is a problem that crops all over the place, also with food additives. Any new chemical, be it a dye or a food additive, is considered harmless until proven otherwise and no one ever considers the problem of compounding effects due to many poisons working together.
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