Mounted on Saturday afternoon as a digital presentation, Hermès' Spring/Summer 2022 was a highlight of Paris Fashion Week's (surprisingly) bustling schedule.
Shown by way of a film directed by Cyril Teste, the collection, which was designed by the house's longstanding creative director of menswear Véronique Nichanian, was a celebration of dressing down, but doing so with elegance. “I wanted everything to be instilled with freedom, momentum, a duality of spirit,” explained Nichanian in a post-show conversation with her collaborator Teste.
“It is an expression of grace, fluidity and the shifting nature of our lives,” she continued. "It aims to encourage people to get out and roam – a desire we all share. We attempted to hone a freer, somewhat looser discourse," explained Nichanian. “Unforeseen events stimulate creativity. I had to reinvent my approach to designing and presenting clothes. Collectively there was a strong desire to find a way of expressing optimism through a form that would mirror our need to see the world in a fresh, new way.”
Below are the lessons you can learn from Nichanian's latest collection to give your own wardrobe a summer-ready overhaul.
Nichanian's latest collection was a pastel sea of dove greys, pale pinks and dense carbons, which were subtly punctuated with notes of yolk yellow and cherry blossom. Vividly hued cardigans sat next to loose knits carrying printed daisies, both of which added enough colour to the collection, which whispered personality rather than shouting it. Take note.
Exaggerated Bermuda shorts and wide-legged slacks were order of the day for Nichanian's latest offering. Bermudas are having something of a moment in menswear – Prada, Armani et al have produced takes on the style – so consider these a chi-chi alternative to short shorts this summer and beyond.
Sticking to the brand's understated roots, the collection boasted plenty of reimagined shirting. Shirts came collarless, crafted in durable rubberised lambskin and carried the kind of zigzag stitching used on sails. Elsewhere, breathable mesh tops with shirting details were finished with classic Hermès prints.
Though in previous seasons we've been served supple leather suiting and slim-fit single-breasted numbers by Nichanian, for SS22 the designer presented relaxed-fit suits crafted from a wool canvas designed specifically with travel in mind. Elsewhere, trousers came in ultra-comfortable and stretchy, cotton-twill serge fabrications. Forget restrictive tailoring, it's all about being free and easy in Hermès land.
Nichanian's rope belts were a highlight of the collection. A totally unique take on a truly basic item, if you can't wait until these hit the shops early next year, you can always make your own with that bit of old rope that's been hanging around the toolshed for the past few years. Thank us (and Hermès) later.
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