The Bordeaux region of Southwest France is famous for producing some of the most complex and world-renowned wines. With acreage spanning over 112,00 hectares, Bordeaux houses the world’s largest vineyards alongside 7000 châteaux, 300 wine dealerships, and 65 appellations. However, in spite of its impressive heritage, the province has fallen upon tough times in recent years. In fact, Bordeaux’s most distinguished oenologist now claims that the region’s newer wines are beginning to dilute its legacy.
At their peak, the Bordeaux estates produced approximately 158 million gallons of wine per year and global demand for a fine vintage was flourishing. However, since 2011, demand, and subsequently prices, have steadily declined in a sign of ongoing difficulties affecting the region.
Today, analysts paint a bleak picture. Barrels of claret sit gathering dust as China’s desire for French wine dwindles and political turmoil continues to stoke the fires of economic uncertainty. Whilst a Châteaux Lafite Rothschild vintage would have sold for €834 in 2022, prices have now dropped steeply to €570. The going rate of a Châteaux Léoville-Las Cases has also fallen €202 in this same period.
In a statement made earlier this year, the International Organisation of Vine and Wine outlined the reasons behind this recent spike in decreased global demand for fine wines: "Geopolitical tensions and subsequent energy crises, along with global supply chain disruptions, resulted in higher production and distribution costs, leading to significant price increases for consumers and dampening overall demand."
Despite these assertions, Bordeaux’s most famed oenologist has declared a fad for fresh and fruity wines is behind the crisis. Michel Rolland laments the shift from the complex, dense clarets that have long defined the region’s prestige, to lighter, more accessible wines aimed at capturing fleeting market trends.
Speaking to Le Figaro, Rolland claimed vineyard owners had succumbed to the belief that wine drinkers were no longer after a classic full-bodied red. The fresh and fruity notes ringing through newer Bordeaux wines lack the soul of their rich, robust predecessors Rolland argues, causing a slump in sales despite the highest price cuts in 15 years.
“It’s not the consumers who want that. It’s a trend, more down to the media,” he said. Tastes do change, he admitted, but “it is not a reason to lose your soul.”
Rolland also criticised Bordeaux’s condescension towards international markets, particularly American consumers, arguing that the vineyards erroneously assume the inherent superiority of their wines.
So, it would seem Bordeaux’s estates must rediscover their roots or risk losing their storied heritage in the chase for fleeting trends. It remains to be seen whether this slump in sales will push Bordeaux to redefine its legacy, or drive the region further into somewhat of an identity crisis.
Read the full story via The Times: https://lnkd.in/danS2vVs