Dustin Glist’s Post

Deck designers, this is how a deck should be set up for drainage. The main drain pipe is oversized to allow water to drain from multiple deck drain points. Each deck drain flows to the main drain pipe, and the main pipe has plenty of capacity to take all the water down to the ground without cavitation or slow drains.

Causes of plaster removal Plaster removal in construction can be caused by several factors, including 1. Structural Movement: Shifting or settling of the building’s foundation can lead to cracks in the plaster, necessitating removal and reapplication. 2. Water Damage: Leaks or high humidity levels can cause plaster to deteriorate, blister, or fall away from the wall. 3. Poor Adhesion: Insufficient preparation of the surface or the use of low-quality plaster can result in poor adhesion, causing plaster to separate from the substrate. 4. Aging and Wear: Over time, plaster can naturally degrade, crack, or become discolored, making removal necessary for restoration. 5. Renovation or Redesign: During renovations, plaster may need to be removed to accommodate changes in design or to install new systems like wiring or plumbing. 6. Substrate Issues: If the underlying structure, like lath or masonry, has damage or decay, the plaster may loosen and require removal. 7. Vibration or Impact: Construction activity, heavy machinery, or even everyday use of a building can lead to vibration or impact that weakens plaster over time. #cracks #renovations #restorations #Ultrasonictest #reboundhammertest #AKHILARENOVATIONREPAIRSANDRESTORANTIONCONSULTANTS AKHILA PROJECTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS LLP

What is basement tanking? 🤔 Otherwise known as 'Type A' waterproofing, basement tanking is the application of a membrane or coating to the inside/outside of a structure, creating a waterproof barrier to stop water ingress from entering the habitable space of a property, and making the basement watertight. For tanking to be successful: 1️⃣ It must be applied to walls and floors which are in a sound and stable condition 2️⃣ The flow of free water must be reduced as much as possible prior to application. 3️⃣ Attention should also be given to the weaker points within the structure that may be more susceptible to water ingress, such as the floor to wall junction and other construction joints or service penetrations. There are also occasions when a tanking membrane is not the appropriate solution, for example: 🏛️ In listed or historic structures, as they may not be deemed as ‘reversible’ by a conservation officer 🏚️ If a building is expected to receive excessive movement during its lifetime 💧 Where a weak structure is not capable of resisting the head of water pressure that may come to bear 🚅 If there are excessive underground vibrations, for example from a railway line To ensure that the products and systems specified for your waterproofing project are appropriate to the structure and to achieving the desired internal environment, we always recommend speaking to a qualified waterproofing designer. Learn more about basement tanking through the link in the comments ⬇️ #TrustNewton #waterproofing #basementwaterproofing #basementtanking #tanking #construction

These are good reasons why having the appropriate lighting and conditions to help mitigate irregularities and imperfections prior to installation is a very important thing! Nothing is perfect even in the best of situations. Which is why when jobs are done with sub par conditions these issues can be amplified dramatically causing the quality of the installation to decrease.

Saving Time, Money, and Relationships. Leveraging independent third-party certified experts to objectively determine installation conformance. This is worth a read.....

Q: What is Mix design? A: Mix design involves the selection of appropriate constituent materials and proportioning them to produce the required concrete properties. The proportioning depends on factors such as the required fresh and hardened properties of the concrete as influenced by the environment in which the concrete will be located and the method of construction. Further info: https://lnkd.in/eMbcTVsE

Parapet: Slope of Coping Even though there is no "building code" requirements that I have come across, it is a detailing issue not to be ignored. This slope has been contentious debate and I am sure architects will agree with me. "The slope of a parapet wall should slope inward towards the roof itself, so water and melting snow does not drip down the exterior wall; potentially causing damage to siding and windows, or falling onto the street below." However, some say that sloping either way will have negligible impact on snow and ice buildup. Sloping out will also cause staining and prematurely degrade the exterior, especially if you have an EIFS type cladding. In many jurisdictions, this is not allowed, and it goes against general practice. Here are some tips for sloping parapet coping outwards: 1) Add a drip edge: A generous drip edge, with perhaps a 1/2" gap between the flashing and the wall, and extending down 1-1/2" should be enough to improve things. Make sure there is a waterproof membrane under the coping 2) Parapet coping can be composed of a range of different materials, but most commonly it is formed from light gauge galvanized or stainless steel, aluminum, or stone. 3) The inward slope shall be generally 10degrees.

A reinforced masonry wall is by ASCE 30-14, table 2-1 "Wall Systems" , is a "barrier wall system". Even without construction drawings available, the observations about stucco cladding weep screeds missing is irrelevant as they aren't required. It's a barrier wall, not a drainage system. Therefore, I would expect there to be barrier windows installed as well. I don't care if you're a "leading authority", you're still wrong. Now, I'm not suggesting the storefronts, which are designated by the manufacturer to be "wet sealed" or barrier windows as newly installed, were perfectly installed. They were not. But not picking up on either of those design intent facts brings the rest of your observations into question as well.

𝐏𝐀𝐑𝐆𝐈𝐍𝐆 𝐈𝐍 𝐂𝐎𝐍𝐒𝐓𝐑𝐔𝐂𝐓𝐈𝐎𝐍 𝐀𝐍𝐃 𝐑𝐄𝐒𝐓𝐎𝐑𝐀𝐓𝐈𝐎𝐍 𝑫𝒆𝒇𝒊𝒏𝒊𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏: Parging involves the application of a smooth, cementitious material over concrete or masonry surfaces. This technique is used to refine the appearance of exterior and interior walls, foundations, and various structural elements. 𝑷𝒖𝒓𝒑𝒐𝒔𝒆: Parging serves multiple purposes, including aesthetic enhancement, protection against water infiltration, and the repair of minor surface imperfections or damage. 𝐁𝐞𝐧𝐞𝐟𝐢𝐭𝐬 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐀𝐩𝐩𝐥𝐢𝐜𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐏𝐚𝐫𝐠𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝑨𝒆𝒔𝒕𝒉𝒆𝒕𝒊𝒄 𝑰𝒎𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒗𝒆𝒎𝒆𝒏𝒕: It provides a uniform, smooth finish to rough surfaces, improving the overall appearance of buildings and structures. Protective Barrier: Acts as a protective layer against moisture, thereby preventing water damage and the deterioration of masonry or concrete. 𝑽𝒆𝒓𝒔𝒂𝒕𝒊𝒍𝒊𝒕𝒚: Suitable for both new constructions and the restoration of existing structures, parging can be applied to basement walls, foundations, and other masonry elements. 𝐓𝐞𝐜𝐡𝐧𝐢𝐪𝐮𝐞𝐬 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐂𝐨𝐧𝐬𝐢𝐝𝐞𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬 𝑴𝒂𝒕𝒆𝒓𝒊𝒂𝒍 𝑺𝒆𝒍𝒆𝒄𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏: The choice of parging mix, often a blend of Portland cement, sand, and lime, is crucial for durability and adherence to the substrate. 𝑨𝒑𝒑𝒍𝒊𝒄𝒂𝒕𝒊𝒐𝒏 𝑬𝒙𝒑𝒆𝒓𝒕𝒊𝒔𝒆: Proper application techniques are essential to ensure a durable and aesthetically pleasing finish, often requiring the skill of experienced professionals. 𝐂𝐡𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐞𝐧𝐠𝐞𝐬 𝐢𝐧 𝐏𝐚𝐫𝐠𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝑪𝒓𝒂𝒄𝒌𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝒂𝒏𝒅 𝑨𝒅𝒉𝒆𝒔𝒊𝒐𝒏 𝑰𝒔𝒔𝒖𝒆𝒔: Incorrect mix ratios, inadequate surface preparation, or improper application can lead to cracking, peeling, or delamination over time. 𝑴𝒂𝒊𝒏𝒕𝒆𝒏𝒂𝒏𝒄𝒆: While parging enhances durability, periodic inspection and maintenance are necessary to address any wear or damage. #Parging #ConstructionTechniques #Masonry #ConcreteFinishing #BuildingRestoration #CivilEngineering #ConstructionInnovation #ArchitecturalDetails #concretefunda #niteshvtank

This week, a customer asked about an insulated threshold detail for Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF). Here's a quick rundown of how it works: We’ve designed a simple cross-section that fits directly into your ICF setup. This threshold gets embedded in the concrete, with the ICF built around it. It ends up flush with your floor, providing full insulation and eliminating cold spots where your floor meets the door. Plus, it helps prevent condensation by creating a solid barrier. If needed, we can also add side returns to act as a tray under the door, which not only tackles cold bridging but also stops water from leaking in. This dual-purpose design addresses both thermal efficiency and common leakage issues with ICF. In short, it’s an easy, effective way to ensure a snug, leak-proof fit for your doors during ICF construction. Cheers!