How important is arm movement in a jacket? In functional outerwear arm movement is one of the most important aspects. My number one tip to draft a sleeve with optimum movement is: 🌟 Add a grown-on gusset to the sleeve and armhole. 🌟 This creates great arm lift by ⤵ 1️⃣ Making the sleeve cap height lower 2️⃣ Raising the armhole point This will also reduce how much the hem moves up when arms are raised. #articulatedsleeve #patterncutting #outerwear I help start-ups and small brands develop technical outerwear through pattern cutting, tech packs, and proto mock-ups. 🧥
Hilary Clinton had this sleeve on her Inaugural Ballgown when her husband won the Presidency for the first time. Threads Magazine ran a very interesting and informative article about it, as the gown was made by a theatrical costume maker. Years later, I used this information for costumes for Rigoletto at The Royal Opera House, Covent Garden. Works a treat!!!!
I love this sleeve. Once, I used this technique in a wedding dress with a very fitted sleeve. It worked beautifully.
Philippa Cooper 📐✂️🧵🧥 great visuals this takes me back to flat pattern classes at FIT I just remembered my pattern paper and L Square days. Structure and ease are essential. it’s amazing what we take for granted when it comes to apparel.
I think of this every time I watch professional tennis players and the shirts with the big, dropped armhole. All they do is pick them up the entire match! Drives me batty!
Absolutely! In functional outerwear, ensuring adequate arm movement is crucial for both comfort and functionality. Your suggestion to incorporate a grown-on gusset to the sleeve and armhole is spot on. This technique not only enhances arm lift but also addresses key issues like sleeve cap height and armhole positioning, leading to improved overall mobility. Furthermore, by reducing the movement of the hem when arms are raised, this approach contributes to a more practical and comfortable jacket design. Your expertise in pattern cutting and technical outerwear development is evident, and your willingness to share valuable tips is commendable. Start-ups and small brands looking to excel in outerwear creation would greatly benefit from your insights and services. Keep up the great work! 🧥✨ #OuterwearDesign #ArmMovement #FunctionalFashion
Love the knowledge sharing Philippa Cooper 📐✂️🧵🧥(I'll incorporate this more into my designs going forward). You can design the best garment in the world but if the fit isn't right then everyone is waisting their time. Hence why product developers are vital for any apparel business.
great
This functionality is crucial in sports and outdoor products but it should be equally important in all other tops, mids and jackets. Imagine how much more comfortable these garments would be 😃
Love this Pip!! How do you determine how much extra ease you add to the armhole? Do you have a rule of thumb or do you only determine this through fittings?