Post 1/2: In response to Fabi Becheri’s post: Brand performance. Caveat(s) anyone? ‘There are limitations to using year-to-date (YTD) performance as the sole indicator of trends in the fashion industry’. ‘Distinct possibility data will be scrutinized and validity potentially questioned it terms of context’. As was correctly pointed out, YTD data alone can be influenced by short-term market reactions and corrections, however would combining this with a longer-term view (FY2023) provide valuable insights into industry trends, company performance, and the effectiveness of different strategies in navigating challenging macro scenarios. Irrespective of what the numbers may say, it is clear that the luxury fashion industry is at a critical juncture, where balancing tradition with innovation in the digital era is essential. Could these very recent stock performances of major fashion groups be illustrative of the varying success the individual brands are experiencing in adapting to these challenges? - Luxury Brands: Prada Group (+13.39%) and Hermès (+0.98%) have shown resilience, while others like Moncler (-8.12%), LVMH (-14.71%), Kering (-43.19%), and FERRAGAMO (-45.11%) have faced significant declines. Could this be an indicator of the need for even established luxury brands to evolve in response to changing consumer expectations and market conditions. - Premium Brands: Ralph Lauren (+20.08%) and Tapestry (+10.14%) have performed well, indicating successful strategies in maintaining brand appeal and market relevance. Conversely, Capri Holdings Limited (-21.96%), PVH Corp. (-23.05%), Lanvin Group (-41.55%), and HUGO BOSS (-43.10%) have struggled. Mass Market Brands: Fast Retailing (+27.26%) and Inditex (+26.18%) have outperformed, showcasing the effectiveness of their strategies in blending affordability with cultural credibility. H&M Group (-8.53%) has not fared as well, underscoring the challenges in maintaining a competitive edge. Can Prada's success be attributed to the visionary leadership of Patrizio Bertelli and the dynamic partnership between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. Their ability to blend tradition with forward-thinking design has been crucial in maintaining Prada's status as a respected and innovative brand. This partnership exemplifies how luxury brands can balance tradition and innovation, a crucial dynamic as consumer expectations evolve. #LuxuryFashion #SustainableFashion #CircularEconomy #FashionInnovation #RetailTrends #MassMarketFashion #FashionTech #DigitalTransformation #FutureOfFashion #FashionBusiness @PradaGroup @Hermes @LVMH @Kering @Burberry @Uniqlo @Inditex @HMGroup @BestsellerCompany @FastRetailing @MiucciaPrada @RafSimons @PatrizioBertelli @ClaireWaightKeller @ChristopheLemaire @SaraLihnTran @BritishFashionCouncil @GlobalFashionAgenda @FashionRevolution @EllenMacArthurFoundation @McKinsey @Deloitte
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Miu Miu was the world’s hottest brand in the fourth quarter of 2024, according to the latest Lyst Index, released Wednesday. The brand has held the top spot for three of the last four quarters, per the report. Saint Laurent was the second hottest brand for the period, while Prada was third. Loewe, which previously displaced Miu Miu as the top brand in Q2, moved down to the fourth spot. Searches were up 46% for the Brooklyn bag from Tapestry-owned Coach, making it the quarter’s hottest product. Ugg Classic Ultra Mini boots were the second hottest product and Miu Miu’s fleece sweatshirt was third. Coach rose 10 spots to become the fifth hottest brand, with a 65% increase in demand quarter on quarter and 332% year on year. H&M’s COS brand debuted at 17th place, with a 16% increase in demand, and its cashmere sweater was the fifth hottest product. The average retail price of the hottest products decreased by 27% year over year to $628, indicating a trend towards affordable luxury. Lyst's ranking is based on various metrics, including social media mentions, consumer searches, product views, and global engagement statistics. #hottestbrands #fashion #luxury #miumiu #saintlaurent #prada #lystsrankings
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Hermès’ Q3 results have been a standout in the luxury sector, with an 11% increase in sales, totaling €3.7 billion, surpassing analysts’ expectations. What can CHANEL, who could be considering 50% Mainland workforce reduction, learn from this? Hermès’ success is largely attributed to its strategic use of pricing power. The company implemented a 9% price increase in 2024, yet consumer demand remained strong, particularly for iconic items like the Kelly and Constance Elan bags. This shows how maintaining exclusivity and prestige appears essential to sustaining demand. Chanel, under the leadership of Leena Nair, which has similarly adjusted its prices, can view this as validation of its strategy. Hermès’ sales were notably strong in Japan (+22.8%) and Europe (+17.4%), while growth in Greater China was a modest 1%. This regional performance indicates that while mature markets remain robust, there are regional disparities that need attention. For Chanel, these insights could suggest a need to strengthen marketing and distribution in high-growth regions like Japan, while adopting a more tailored, localised approach to re-engage consumers in China. One of the strengths that helped Hermès navigate the current challenging environment is its diverse product portfolio. Leather goods, which increased by 14%, were complemented by growth in ready-to-wear (+13.5%), accessories, and the successful launch of the new perfume, Barénia. For Chanel, this suggests that balancing revenue streams across various segments can help it mitigate risks. Strengthening focus on high-growth areas like beauty and ready-to-wear, while nurturing core fashion products, could help Chanel to ensure consistent performance across different consumer segments. Hermès has gradually expanded its digital sales, contributing to overall growth. In markets where physical store traffic is down, this online presence helped sustain engagement and sales. Chanel could benefit by enhancing its digital platforms, especially in regions where digital shopping is a growing preference. An omnichannel plan that merges online and offline experiences would be critical in building a seamless consumer journey. Hermès’ success highlights the importance of leaning into ones’ unique strengths: - heritage - craftsmanship - exclusivity Hermès’ Q3 results reaffirm that luxury brands can thrive by strategically managing exclusivity, diversifying their offerings, and adapting to regional market dynamics. For Chanel, this translates into a - continued focus on strengthening brand equity - optimising regional strategies - diversifying product lines - embracing digital transformation In an environment where not all competitors like Kering, LVMH, are thriving, these tactics will help Chanel maintain a competitive edge.
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Luxury is not having a great time; yesterday's worldwide sell-off is editing the narrative. Even though every big conglomerate bravely announced that H2 is not expected to be better (with the average drop currently in the low double digits), the business doesn't stop. We do see that new policies are starting to be implemented. The first, and a particularly costly one, is redeveloping the image of the brands. Usually, the cost runs in the millions. The leader in this department is always Heidi Slimane, but others are not far behind. It's hard to understand why designers have carte blanche on this part of the brand. Ricardo Tisci was gone when the rebranding was still in the works. Remember the orange à la "Tory Burch" print? Currently, many companies, including Gucci, are putting this part of the brand on hold. But, it's not enough. I have a few ideas if anyone is interested. I will make a few posts (This is a continuation of the post last week, link in comments). During the last decade, there has been a tendency to go direct versus wholesale. For name brands such as YSL, Gucci, Dior, and Bottega Veneta, the name carried enough strength to move away from focusing on multi-brand stores. All of this comes with a high cost: leases, real estate, services, associates, limited client base, etc. Plus, prices were hiked up dramatically, cutting off many inspirational customers who contributed to the selling of leather goods. What do you do, when customers start pulling back and stores sit half-empty? You can't start making a collection under the same name and signed by the same designer but 50% cheaper. That is when you would need a SECOND COLLECTION. This is a controversial subject, and many would probably remind me that diffusion brands like Red Valentino or M Missoni have never taken off on a large scale. However, there are examples of those who have done very well. Because of limited space, I can't write about many, but I will mention the following: Ralph Lauren Black Label, Burberry London, Pleats Please Issey Miyake, etc. But the biggest success and I bet it's going to do just fine this year, is Akris Punto Let's highlight a few points. Brand: There are similarities and differences with Akris. Akris is strictly a designer brand, and Punto is a designer sportswear brand, meaning more separates, a bigger collection, and more jackets than dresses. I will continue in the comments, please read them.
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Customize your brand business ecosystem The fashion industry has experienced ups and downs on different occasions that not only affect nascent brands, but also large conglomerates that have built a legacy over the years, but this does not have to be a reality for everyone, If we look at brands like Hermès or Bottega Veneta, which manage to successfully navigate all these circumstances, thanks to the commercial ecosystem that they have developed through a product-oriented approach, where it is the quality of the product and its level of customization with the customer. final, the x factor The same element that allows them to position themselves at the top of the pyramid of luxury consumers, whether this is your objective or not, would undoubtedly represent a satisfactory advantage that can be complemented to further enhance financial results. In addition to the product focus, we can achieve this through: • From the integration of a product offering focused on scarcity • The creation of a conceptual style that differentiates the brand and makes it a timeless proposal • The creation of iconic products that are positioned as flagship items for Fashion Lovers 😉 Ready to establish a privileged position in the industry for your brand? Share your opinion in the comments? • • • #fashion #fashionbrands #fashionbusiness #fashionmarketing #fashionindustry #Hermès #bottegaveneta
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Luxury brand Represent and investment and innovation firm True. are proud to announce an exciting strategic partnership to accelerate Represent’s growth and global expansion. Since its inception, Represent has experienced rapid growth, with a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 64% since 2020, delivering double-digit profit margins. With strong product offerings in both luxury and performance sportswear, the brand is well positioned to continue its trajectory and expects to generate circa £100 million in revenue by the end of this fiscal year. Founded by George Heaton and Michael Heaton and led by CEO Paul Spencer, Represent has quickly scaled, serving over 350,000 of their online community in 2023 and securing a growing desirable portfolio of wholesale partners. In 2024, the brand opened its first retail locations: a luxury boutique in West Hollywood, Los Angeles, followed by a flagship store in their hometown of Manchester on New Cathedral Street, with a London store set to open in Summer 2025. Alongside their mainline collections, Represent has recently collaborated with other global brands such as PUMA, Belstaff, and Oasis. Additionally, its ‘247’ roster of ambassadors has grown to include some of the world’s highest performing Hyrox athletes. True will leverage its considerable expertise in the consumer sector to enable Represent to further scale and accelerate growth. "We're gaining unstoppable momentum, and with this minority investment and strategic partnership with True we feel it’s the perfect time to propel Represent to new heights” said George Heaton. Co-founder Michael Heaton adds, "The mission continues and we feel like we’re just getting started." CEO Paul Spencer commented, "We’ve always selected our partners based on the strength of their team, and this partnership is no exception. From a business standpoint, we see growth opportunities across every area—geography, category, and gender. We’ve built an exceptional team who are working tirelessly on exciting initiatives across the board, including the highly anticipated launch of womenswear in 2025. The future holds incredible potential, and we can’t wait to see what’s next." Ejike Onuchukwu, Investment Director at True and a new board member at Represent, stated, "Represent is a real success story for British fashion. The team’s track record of developing culturally relevant products and acquiring loyal customers to the brand, despite the challenging consumer environment, is remarkable. I look forward to supporting the management team and Founders to help achieve its significant expansion potential.” Paul Cocker, CEO and Co-Founder of True said, “We are proud to be partnering with George, Michael, Paul and the rest of the team at Represent – there are very few brands that are thriving in the current environment and we’re looking forward to supporting a team with so much energy and passion during the next phase of the Represent journey.” https://lnkd.in/e6X5ntCX
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I am commenting on a post below (in the comments). The discussion about price and quality for luxury brands, along with the future of pricing policies and their impact on business in general, remains a central topic among fashion professionals. I would like to contribute to this conversation. I think the situation we currently face is slightly off track. Luxury is being driven by large commercial conglomerates like LVMH and Kering, and the reality is very different from what we might hope it to be. Currently, lead designers—who are predominantly RTW specialists—are in the spotlight. However, RTW is not the primary focus for big brands because it’s too complex and, instead of driving sales, it places pressure on gross margins. This challenge is evidenced by several failed attempts by LVMH to establish RTW-focused brands from scratch, such as Christian Lacroix, Rihanna’s Fenty line, and Phoebe Philo’s recent venture. The results for Phoebe Philo’s brand remain uncertain (and not very promising), but the first two ventures failed quickly. While artistic directors and designers may still specialize in RTW, this is largely a façade. The real focus lies in leather goods, accessories, and other non-clothing items, where prices continue to rise. For example: In Korea (2025), Loro Piana announced price increases across categories. Some popular Loom handbags will rise by 8% from their current price of nearly 6.9 million won ($4,688), and certain clothing items will see price hikes of up to 23%. Hermès is expected to increase prices in 2025. After already raising prices twice in 2024—by 10–15% on shoes and handbags in January and on its Garden Party bag lineup in June—more hikes are likely. Chanel, which raised prices for watches and jewelry twice in 2024, is anticipated to raise them again in the new year, according to market observers. To support these high prices (as price hikes often lead to customer departure), brands are diversifying their offerings to cover every price point ( making it accessable to all types of customers)—from keychains and charms to gemstone-encrusted bags. We can also expect highly elaborate campaigns focused on key markets, similar to LV’s collaboration with Murakami, supported by films, branded sweets, and more. And regarding quality? It is gradually deteriorating. However, the “cool” factor has taken precedence, especially for the upcoming generation of shoppers raised on Shein. For them, anything better than Shein feels like a significant improvement. Michael Serwetz Vogue Business Vogue WWD
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SAVE THE DATE! January 30th, 2025, at 2pm CET - SUNDeLuxe Webinar: “Fashion Brands in Red: Valentino, FERRAGAMO and Gucci. How Misaligned Brand management takes the Business down”. "Rosso relativo", Red is relative (I didn’t say it first, as is well known, but here the context seems much more interesting to me). I took this photo in summer 2023 at a Ferragamo boutique where I bought a pair of shoes (golden rule in luxury: always buy a core business product and -almost- never a brand extension. Salvatore was first and foremost a legendary shoemaker, I dare say, the best of all – for those who don’t believe me, a visit to the glorious Ferragamo Museum in Florence is a must; I wrote a book at this purpose, too). The transition from the old to the new element of non-verbal DNA, which follows the rebranding (from Salvatore Ferragamo, with its legendary signature, iconic, extremely recognizable, to FERRAGAMO, with an anonymous and not very personalized cap, and a font identical to a thousand others; but above all for me, always fond of the personality of Salvatore, it was a crime to have erased his name from the brand, because that was its main distinctive element, its heritage). The different shade of red (a color that evokes emotional tension, attention, but above all love – the claim “I love Salvatore” was global, a construction of invaluable value literally thrown to the wind) is synonymous with an actual genetic mutation of the brand (because we are talking about DNA, not only visual but also in terms of values, therefore verbal). Just one example among many others. I will talk with Susanna Nicoletti about how essential it is to return to a solid, conscious, granite-like brand management to get out of the luxury crisis we are facing through nowadays, getting out of the slavery of the instagrammable image, in her next webinar, on Thursday 30 January at 2pm CET, where I am honoured to have been called as guest. The title of the webinar will be “Fashion Brands in Red: Valentino, FERRAGAMO and Gucci. How Misaligned Brand management takes the Business down”. You can subscribe at the link in comment, the live webinar will give access to all SUNDeLuxe subscribers, both free and paid. Don't miss it, I look forward to seeing you there! #luxury #fashion #brandmanagement #brandDNA #red #gucci #valentino #ferragamo #madeinitaly #brandimage #brandequity #valuecreation
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Excess inventory, typically associated with fast fashion's cyclical waste, is a growing concern for luxury brands. Regulations around the destruction of unsold goods have changed the calculus for the old model of overstocking to meet demand, but shedding excess inventory through discounting puts brand value at risk. Luxury brands face a unique challenge: They must meticulously balance production with demand and navigate evolving ethical and regulatory complexities. Our experts Thomas Trevesaigues, Folasade Owoeye - Ferron, Lindy Firstenberg, and Catherine NEKAVAND discuss how luxury brands must, therefore, introspect and innovate to sustainably address surplus inventory without compromising brand positioning.
Luxury fashion's inventory balance: Threading a high-cost needle to balance brand value and waste
alixpartners.com
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This is the boldest fashion brand move of 2024. TELFAR is doing the unthinkable, giving real bags to Canal Street counterfeit bag dealers to sell. Canal Street in NYC is infamous for its rows of fake designer handbags, and is known as the “epicentre of counterfeit bag sales in the USA.” Just weeks ago, the brand’s founder, Telfar Clemens, opened their flagship store mere feet from the iconic street. Now, those same street vendors are selling authentic bags, handed to them directly by the brand itself. And it’s a win-win for everyone (except capitalism). Here’s how it works: 👉🏾 Telfar provides real bags to the street sellers. 👉🏾 The sellers make a cut. 👉🏾 The customers get an authentic bag at a discount. Rather than losing revenue to counterfeit sales, Telfar is redirecting demand back to the brand, creating a system that’s both practical and provocative. This strategy is a powerful statement on the fashion industry. It challenges the exclusivity of luxury fashion while redefining Telfar’s value on the streets, Proving Telfar is all about culture. While this move is revolutionary, it’s also risky, as directly contributing with the industry could backfire on the brand. Counterfeits are a double-edged sword. On one hand, they signify cultural relevance. After all, imitation is a form of flattery. On the other, counterfeits can hurt a brand’s reputation. The global counterfeit market is valued at up to $4 trillion and has far-reaching consequences, including economic losses, job threats, and reduced consumer trust. In fact, a 2021 study by Incopro found that 76% of consumers are less likely to buy from a brand associated with counterfeits. Luxury giants like Gucci and ROLEX combat counterfeits with authentication tags and exclusive resale programmes. But Telfar? They’ve turned the system on its head, directly engaging with the counterfeit market in a way that no luxury brand has dared to before. This is fashion in its rawest, most exciting form: a cultural flex, a bold business strategy, and loud critique of the system. The question is, can Telfar balance accessibility with its long-term brand value? One thing is certain: Telfar has shown the world that luxury doesn’t have to come at the expense of culture.
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