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Connecting People and Country

What is science saying about the benefits of surfing and the ocean to people's wellbeing, as well as their motivation to care for the environment? I was curious after the NADIOC week event 'Spirit in Surfing' (see my last post), and because a big interest of mine is the overlap between Traditional Knowledge and modern science. Here’s an interesting recent article: Sensing Water: Uncovering Health and Well-Being in the Sea and Surf (Britton & Foley, 2021) Not surprisingly for anyone who surfs, the researchers found that surfing and being in the ocean can lead to mental (e.g. attention restoration and stress reduction), social (e.g. a sense of belonging and identity through shared experiences) and physiological (e.g. from physical exercise) benefits, not to mention the opportunity for peak or ‘flow’ experiences (which could be considered spiritual). Some of these benefits (e.g. attention restoration and stress reduction) are common in nature experiences, however the article proposes that they are enhanced through surfing due to the participant being directly immersed in the ocean, and the heightened sensory experience this fosters. Like the First Nations people at the NAIDOC event, the article talks about how surfing can foster a deep connection to place, and that this connection can be intergenerational, which is another important factor in First Nations people’s connection with Country. It’s great to read that surfing can lead to an increased recognition of the interconnection between a healthy environment and human health, and a desire to look after the environment, which is also consistent with First Nations people’s reciprocal relationship with Country and the science around Nature Connectedness. However, I’ve often wondered why surfers aren’t more environmentally active, to be honest. Sure, they will speak up pretty strongly if their local or favourite surf spot is at risk, but otherwise it’s not obvious to me that the average surfer does more than the average person to care for the natural environment. Which is surprising to me when the ocean provides so much joy in their lives, and as the article says, surfing is an extra strong way to connect with nature (i.e. by being directly immersed in it). It has certainly played a big part in my interest (and work) in helping the environment, and especially the coast. I’ve spoken to other surfers who’ve tended to agree on this. But I’m sure there’s some other opinions out there? Or even some research around it?

Sensing Water: Uncovering Health and Well-Being in the Sea and Surf - Easkey Britton, Ronan Foley, 2021

Sensing Water: Uncovering Health and Well-Being in the Sea and Surf - Easkey Britton, Ronan Foley, 2021

journals.sagepub.com

Simon Coverdale

Connecting People and Country

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