10 Style Tips To Help Short Men Look Taller
Federal Taxes.
State Taxes.
These are required of all men.
For the not-so-tall men, there is a third…
Short man taxes. (aka The Tailor Tax)
And it sucks!
Everything short men purchase has to be altered.
And some thicker fabrics can’t be.
What’s a short guy supposed to do?
Grow?
Tried that. Didn’t work.
But there are ways that you can wear your existing wardrobe to make you look taller.
This article is going to break down each item with tips on how to wear them in order to look taller.
Secret # 1 – Low-Contrasting Footwear
Shoes for the shorter men are critical as they can have a lengthening effect. This is achieved when shoes don’t contrast too heavily with trousers. The low contrast will visually elongate the leg.
Keep the contrast with the pant leg low by not having stark opposites in your color palates. When wearing black denim, try to avoid white sneakers. Black or charcoal sneakers with black denim if a fantastic option because the colors are in the same palate.
During the warm and hot months, there is a trick you can pull off when wearing shorts. Wearing shoes that match your skin tone as closely as possible will elongate the legs. Tans, beiges, and browns (flesh tones) shorts should sit above the knee which will show more leg. Creating one continuous color line makes it look like one long leg.
The final approach to shoes is to pay attention to the shape and the silhouette of the shoe. Remember that the goal is to elongate the leg. As such you should:
- Wear a pointed toe shoe – rounded or squared off toes can shorten the foot. Pointed toes visually lengthen the foot and, subsequently, the leg.
- Keep the shoe below the ankle – this applies to wearing shorts. Low top shoes show more ankle as opposed to high tops or boots that shorten the leg because the rise is past the ankle.
Secret #2 – Proportions Of Suit
As a shorter gentleman proportions should always be a goal.
The easiest place to explain proportions is in a suit
- Shorter Jackets – take note that shorter jackets for men 5’8” should not suffer in the fit across the shoulders and arm. Jackets usually cover the but,t but a shorter jacket will expose the leg more giving the illusion of height.
- Narrower Lapels – lapels that are narrow keep the shoulders from looking wide. A wider looking shoulder does nothing for adding “height” to a not so tall guy. Also, notch lapels instead of peak lapels will slim the chest and shoulders too which gives the appearance of length.
- Slimmer Sleeve Widths – Arms hug the body and act as sight lines up and down a man’s physique. Slimmer sleeves add length to the arms making them appear lean as opposed to short a portly. The leaner and longer the arms appear, the leaner and longer you body will appear.
- Higher Buttons – The positioning of the waist button (button stance) is critical because it will draw the eye upward along the body. Secondarily, a high waist button gives the appearance of a high waist and longer legs. This adds height as well.
- Medium Rise Trouser – The drop of the crotch plays a big part in how long the legs appear. If the drop is too low it will create the illusion of stumpy legs.
What’s also important about proportion is the fit. It should be slim. The garments should accentuate your silhouette and not be bulky. Baggy fitting clothes give a wide appearance and take away length and height.
Secret #3 – Long Topcoats
Topcoats that fall to the mid-thigh area helps to lengthen the torso and create height.
One thing to pay close attention is the surrounding pieces. If they are monochromated or a similar shade it will create a streamlined look with the coat.
I recommend that you have neutral tones for versatility in both a heavyweight and lighter weight.
Wool topcoats are great elements to help achieve this length. The key is to make sure that it doesn’t contrast heavily with the rest of the outfit.
If you can find these patterns knit within the fabric it is also a plus as the give a subtle vertical weave which subconsciously creates more length.
- Herringbone – zig zag design that runs vertically
- Cable knits – prominent knit that runs vertically
Secret #4 – Accessory Usage
What isn’t a secret is that accessories can make or break an outfit.
Socks – How you wear your socks can really elongate you. Make sure that your socks are the same color or as close as possible to your trousers.
Be careful with going sockless because it can segment your look. Also, stay away from patterns or bright colors as they aid in fragmentation.
Hats and scarves – These are excellent for adding color, drawing the eyes to your upward and to your face. As a shorter guy hats and scarves are arguably the best way to add some pizzazz to your outfit during the fall and winter months.
Another good tip is to play them on your physical features. If have green eyes then a rich, emerald green. A scarf is a great way to draw attention to them.
Belts – keep them slim. It’s best if they are no thicker than 1.5 inches and shouldn’t contrast too heavily with your outfit.
The preference is to go beltless. Belts divide you in two and can shorten you. Thin belts or no belts keeps you looking long. Also, suspenders is another option to add to the vertical visual effect and they are extremely classy.
Secret # 5 – Low Contrast or Monochrome Color
Streamline is the desired effect. The eyes of onlookers should seamlessly travel up and down your outfit. To do this you have to
– Stick with a low-contrast palette
– Avoiding items that cut the torso in two
– Manage accessories and patterns (no large and bright belts, stay away from horizontal patterns)
There two approaches that should be taken with color.
#1 Stay in the same color family – staying in the same color family streamlines the look and gives an elongating effect
#2 Stay in the light or dark colors – colors can be different but make sure that the contrasting color on top. It will draw the eyes up when being looked at.
Secret #6 – Trouser Fit
Trousers are important in creating length because you wear them on your legs. I know it’s obvious but there are tricks to make your legs look longer thus creating the illusion of height.
Low-rise trousers should be avoided at all costs. When you tuck in your shirt to a pair of low-rise trousers or jeans, your torso looks longer. Your body is cut in half and your legs are shortened. Instead, stick to medium or high-rise pants.
The crotch should never be dropped. Pants that are dropped shorten the legs. Additionally, it looks sloppy when there is a bunch of unnecessary fabric hanging between your legs. And guys, it doesn’t make you look well endowed.
Pant legs – there should be little to no break on trousers. If you prefer break, it should be 1/4 break. Trouser break is defined as the amount of fabric that covers the shoe.
When there is a lot of fabric bunched up at the ankle, the leg can look stumpy and short. Other common styles such as stacking, cuffing, and rolling will shorten the legs. Take your trousers to you tailor as it is a simple and inexpensive process to create this look.
Secret #7 – Add Visual Length
This one takes some moxie and creativity. Let yourself play around with collar sizes and narrow lapels. When these elements are worn correctly they will draw attention upwards but simultaneously lengthen the neck and narrow your frame.
Vertical lines – This is the most obvious one to most short men, and for good reason. It does help elongate the body, and add the appearance of visual length.
Hats are fantastic for adding some inches to the top of your head. There are dozens of styles, colors, and patterns to choose from that can be the focal point of the outfit. With the eyes pulled upward, length will have been achieved.
Jackets – look to wear two button jackets as opposed to three or four button pieces. Also, the top button should be above the waist which gives the appearance of a higher waistline and longer legs.
The pockets of the jacket should be closely placed together. When they are out wide it makes the torso look wide. Wear accessories that match your eyes and hair. Both are at the top of your body and will draw the eye upward.
Secret #8 – Pay Close Attention Shirt Fit
The length of your arms is directly related to to the perceived height of a person.
So you want to create the illusion of length. As a short guy, your arms are going to be shorter so the cuff of the shirt should be amended as well.
Shirt Cuff Length – Generally, it is recommended that 1/2 to 3/4 inch of shirt cuff should show under your blazer. Because you are a shorter man, as little as a 1/4 inch is ideal. If more than that shows it will make your arms look shorter.
Slim or fitted through the chest – this helps to narrow the torso. Even if you are an athletic built gentleman, you want to make sure that the shirt that you are wearing narrows your chest for the cleanest fit.
High armholes – higher arm holes allow for a slimmer fit with more movement. Again the slimmer fit leans the body out to our eyes .
Secret #9 – Streamline Layering
Layering is a skill that must be mastered as a shorter gent. To give a slimming effect and to lengthen, you should work the colors inwardly.
When wearing a darker jacket over a light colored shirt the piece that is lighter will create a more noticeable vertical line. This will help visually extend your upper body.
Add one more layer by wearing a jacket over a vest, which is then layered over a shirt. If the top two pieces are worn properly, the jacket and shirt will shape the narrow V from the vest, adding by default a vertical line contrast.
You could also experiment with a printed shirt in this instance, as it will help create two lines either side of the center.
What you are trying to achieve is the creation of a vertical line. Remember that vertical patterns are a great method of elongating the body. It also provides great texture among the look which can distract the eye from the lack of height.
Secret #10 – Know Your Tailor By Name
All tailors are not created equal. Do your research and find a good tailor who is very knowledgeable and skilled in their craft.
Talk to neighbors and friends to find out who they may use.
A tailor can get you that sleek fit that will make your outfit it’s most spectacular version. Most menswear is cut loose so that it can fit as many body types as possible.
Baggy is better for business because the sizes don’t marginalize buyers. A good tailor will help alleviate this problem.
Even if you don’t use a tailor often, it’s best to have one in your arsenal. There will come a time that you need him or her.
Bonus: It’s also helpful to adequately know your correct sizes when you are going a new tailor. This is advantageous for shopping as well. The most common sizes to get familiar with are
- Collar
- Sleeve length
- Waist
- Inseam (pant leg length)
- Suit jacket
If you don’t know the correct sizes, you should visit your:
- Local tailor
- Tuxedo rental store
- Menswear store
- Local dry cleaners that offers alterations
I’m stressing correct sizes because it’s if the sizes are too big, they will widen you and highlight your lack of height and/or take away any of the above efforts to add height.
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