40 years of surfing

As I reflected on my time on a surfboard last week, I thought about one of the surfers who shared the ocean with me that morning. We didn’t get a chance to talk for a long time, so what stood out the most to me was how easy he made surfing look, specifically how smoothly he paddled across the water to get back out for the next wave.

While I splashed around, struggling to paddle efficiently (thankfully, there weren’t any sharks around because I definitely would have gotten their attention), he glided across the water without a splash–it was almost like he was floating just off the top of the ocean. It was effortless and beautiful, especially as I judged my own efforts.

Not only did he glide across the water as he paddled out for his next wave, but he also would stand up a wave that looked too small to ride. I’d watch a wave come in and decide it wasn’t going to be breaking where I needed it to, so I’d stay seated on my board. I’d look over, and he’d wait until the last second and, with a couple of quick paddles, would pop up and ride the wave in. 

During one of the breaks in the waves, I told him how I loved watching him navigate the water on the board and how he made it look so easy.

His response was, “that’s what 40 years of surfing will do for you.”

I’m sure 40 years ago, he looked similar to me as he learned how to surf, but with repetition, plenty of failed attempts, and a love for his craft, he mastered the art of surfing and, after 40 years, is still hitting the water every morning when most people his age are slowing down–making newbies like me look silly.

This experience serves as a great reminder that you should not give up when you are first starting something because it doesn’t go as smoothly as you’d like or your work doesn’t look like someone else’s who has been at it much longer than you.

In the early days of anything, you’re supposed to struggle–that’s how you learn, get more comfortable, and go from splashing around to skimming the ocean on a surfboard.

See you tomorrow and keep pursuing,

JC

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