Bean There: Insights on Resilience and Innovation Among Smallholder Coffee Farmers

Coffee, the lifeblood of morning routines worldwide, has a rich history intertwined with global economics and culture. The coffee bean, originating from the Ethiopian highlands, owes much of its current form and manifestation as we experience it today to the influence of Yemen and the Ottoman Empire. As a beverage and life source, coffee has journeyed across continents, shaping economies and communities. Its story is one of connection, resilience, and transformation, especially evident in the narratives of smallholder farmers who form the backbone of the coffee industry.

Starbucks played a significant role in connecting customers in coffee-consuming countries to the origins of their coffee beans. Before Starbucks, the average customer had little knowledge of or connection to the source of their coffee. By highlighting the country of origin on their packaging and in their stores, Starbucks helped raise awareness about the diverse regions where coffee is grown and the communities that produce it, shaping a new narrative. This approach not only educated consumers but also fostered a greater appreciation for the journey coffee takes from farm to cup.

Insights with a shot of personal connection: Last week, I traveled to connect with nature and coffee. Dalat, nestled in Vietnam's Central Highlands, is not just scenic—it's the heart of Vietnam's coffee production. Vietnam is the world's second-largest coffee producer, primarily of Robusta, and Dalat area significantly contributes to this status. My journey to Dalat was more than a search for premium coffee; it was a pursuit of my personal heritage linked to coffee, rooted in childhood summers in Haiti visiting my grandmother, where I drank coffee she had just cultivated and roasted. This trip allowed me to reconnect with these memories and witness firsthand the parallels between the coffee cultures of Haiti and Vietnam. Sharing this story brings my personal full-circle experience into view, showcasing the deep, emotional ties that coffee cultivation can evoke. I travel and will travel for coffee (and pastry). It is a key to my travel itinerary and a means of connection for me. Through this journey, I have come to appreciate the profound impact that coffee has had on my life, not only as a beloved beverage but also as a bridge connecting me to my heritage and the world around me. Sharing a cup of coffee with someone is an experience I hold dear and selectively use to reinforce meaningful relationships.

The bitter brew of coffee's dark history: Our beloved coffee has a dark history that is known to some, unknown to others, and ignored by most. In the late 18th century, the French colony of Saint-Domingue (now Haiti) was the world's leading coffee producer, relying heavily on the brutal labor of enslaved Africans. The Haitian Revolution of 1791 put an end to this practice, destroying many coffee farms and shifting Haiti's position in the global coffee trade. However, exploitation in the coffee industry persisted.

Brazil, with its ideal growing conditions and slave-labor-dependent economy, quickly rose to become the world's leading coffee producer. The country's reliance on enslaved labor was so deeply ingrained that in 1880, a Brazilian politician declared, "Brazil is coffee, and coffee is the negro." Although Brazil finally abolished slavery in 1888, the last country in the Western Hemisphere to do so, the legacy of exploitation persists in the structural practices of the coffee industry. The profits from coffee, built on the backs of enslaved Africans, have had a profound impact on Brazil's development, serving as a sobering reminder of the human cost behind this beloved beverage.

Today, Brazil remains the world's largest coffee bean producer. As we sip our morning cup, it is crucial to acknowledge and confront this dark past. However, there is hope for a more equitable future in the coffee industry. The rise of smallholder farmers and growing consumer awareness are paving the way for a new flavor profile, one that is not entirely bitter and dark but has hints of sweetness and smoothness. By supporting ethical coffee production and demanding transparency, we can work towards a more just and sustainable coffee culture.

Vietnam's remarkable coffee journey: Vietnam's emergence as a coffee powerhouse is a testament to the country's resilience, adaptability, and strategic vision. From the introduction of coffee by French colonists in the mid-19th century to the rapid expansion and global integration of the industry in the late 20th century, Vietnam has overcome significant challenges to become the world's second-largest coffee exporter. The country's success can be attributed to a combination of factors, including favorable growing conditions, government support through economic reforms and agricultural policies, and the hard work and determination of Vietnamese coffee farmers.

Who's brewing and roasting change? Amidst these lush green landscapes, smallholder farms play a pivotal role, driven by passionate leaders who champion sustainable practices and equitable growth. During my visit to Dalat, I had the privilege of meeting Huy Nguyen Quang, the co-founder and manager of Midori Farm. As Huy puts it, "To produce a cup of coffee, it takes between 3 to 4 years for the tree to bear fruit and 1 year to care for and collect the beans. Roasting and mixing only take about 30 minutes. However, in reality, farmers are facing difficulties when the income from coffee trees is very low. In the long run, to supplement their income, they use chemicals in farming to improve productivity and increase income. In the long run, it is not sustainable."

Why it matters? Sip on this: Huy stands out for his dedication to sustainable agriculture and his focus on empowering local farmers, especially women. His work highlights the critical yet often overlooked role of smallholder farmers in global coffee production. 

Filtering the future: Huy introduced me to his innovative approaches at Midori Farms, where sustainability isn't just a buzzword—it's a practice. Through his leadership, the farm emphasizes chemical-free farming and high-quality coffee processing. Through a coffee tasting that Huy hosted, I learned that my taste leans more toward Arabica and not so much Robusta. It is too strong or a mix of the beans. A dark medium roast is certainly my taste profile.

The big picture: Beyond producing premium coffee, Huy's efforts contribute to a larger movement towards sustainability and gender equity in agriculture. He collaborates with organizations to provide farmers, particularly women, with the training and resources needed to improve their livelihoods and assert their rights within the industry. Nearly all coffee in Southeast Asia is produced on small farms of five hectares or less, with millions of people relying on this production for their livelihoods.

By the numbers:

• 95% of Vietnam's coffee production comprises Robusta beans, known for their strong flavor and higher caffeine content compared to Arabica..
• Smallholder farms, typically covering less than five hectares, are crucial, producing over 60% of the world's coffee beans. 
• In 2017, Southeast Asia's coffee exports were valued at $6.2 billion, accounting for about 16% of global coffee exports, with Vietnam and Indonesia as top producers in the region.
• Between 20% and 30% of coffee farms are female-operated and up to 70% of labor in coffee production is provided by women, depending on the region.

So what or So what's in your cup?? Inspired by Huy's story and the transformative work at Midori Farm., there's an opportunity to spotlight and scale these practices globally. Sharing these success stories can inspire similar sustainable practices worldwide and highlight the essential role of ethical leadership in agriculture. As consumers, we can support these efforts by seeking out responsibly sourced coffee, learning about the challenges faced by smallholder farmers, and advocating for policies that promote sustainability and equity in the coffee industry.

The bottom line: My journey to Dalat did more than reconnect me with my coffee heritage; it introduced me to Huy Nguyen Quang and his team at Midori Farm., whose dedication to sustainability and community empowerment exemplifies the potential for positive change in the coffee industry. His story underscores the importance of supporting and advocating for the smallholder farmers and local communities that form the backbone of global coffee production. By sharing this story and the images captured during my visit, I hope to inspire others to appreciate the hard work and dedication that goes into every cup of coffee and to join the movement towards a more sustainable and equitable future for all those involved in this beloved industry.

 Coffee connects us in more ways than we realize, and understanding the source of our coffee—down to the farmers who cultivate and harvest it—can lead to more sustainable consumption and a healthier, more equitable relationship between consumers, farmers, and the environment.

As Huy puts it, "I hope many people know what is behind the coffee, and everyone will be healed by the relationship between consumers, farmers, and the environment. Together, we can work towards a healthier, more sustainable relationship."

Go deeper: To further appreciate the impact of coffee on global economies and the lives of smallholder farmers, as well as discover interesting facts about the top coffee-producing countries (Brazil, Vietnam, Colombia, Indonesia, and Ethiopia) and the countries with the highest coffee consumption per capita (Finland, Norway, Iceland, Denmark, and the Netherlands), explore the resources below. The reasons behind Scandinavia's high coffee consumption are particularly fascinating and reflect deep historical roots.

These resources offer deeper insights into the global dynamics of coffee:

• Coffee History: Fascinating Facts
• Coffee Consumption by Country
• Top Coffee Producing Countries
• Growing a Sustainable Coffee Future
• Coffee Market Analysis
• Coffee Price Forecast
• Sustainable Coffee Production

Each link provides a unique perspective or key data point, contributing to a comprehensive understanding of the coffee sector's current state and its future prospects.