Creating an ‘alternative to leather’? Read this now.
by Suzanne Lee (originally published via the Biofabricate Membership in September 2024)
If you're unfamiliar with my background, it's in design—specifically fashion and textile design. I believe the best design training equips you to apply your ‘design brain’ to any context. Right now, the field that most urgently needs design skills is material innovation.
In case you haven’t noticed, the number of startups innovating materials to replace or offer alternatives to animal or synthetic leather has been multiplying exponentially, yet market traction remains limited. The reasons for the lack of commercially available products are complex (we’ll cover that in separate features). However, one powerful tool that can significantly boost your chances of success is incorporating design talent. Sooner rather than later.
Lack of Differentiation will mean Lack of Business
This feature is the first in a series we’re creating on the role of design in material innovation. At our annual Biofabricate summit, we showcase the most comprehensive selection of biomaterial innovations. However, as a designer walking through the exhibits, I can't help but feel underwhelmed by the lack of differentiation. While the underlying technologies and ingredients may vary, here's the truth: most brand design teams care less about whether your material is made from fungi, bacteria, algae, or waste biomass, and much more about how it looks and feels.
It's the brand's design team you need to win over—they hold the real power. They are the ultimate decision-makers, working hand in hand with merchandising—not the sustainability, innovation, or investment teams. You can have warm and fuzzy relationships with the latter, but they can't get your material on the runway if the design team doesn't love it.
I get it—many brands ask if you can produce something that mimics black calf grain. And yes, some form of black calf grain is the most widely used leather color and texture across fashion, furniture, and automotive. But it's hard to stand out when you look like everyone else. Meeting performance standards and hitting a competitive price point is just table stakes; it won't set you apart. If your goal as an innovator is only to mimic what's already out there, you likely won't have a business in two years. Design is what makes the difference.
Are You Driving Toward Creativity or Commodity?
Established industry suppliers understand this. They know their business relies on tracking trends, listening closely to customers, and continuously iterating on their products to stay relevant.
If you tour a trade fair like Lineapelle (on now), it's far from a sea of black. On the contrary, you'll encounter every imaginable hue, pattern, texture, finish, and form. Why? Because we designers, no, we humans, crave stimulation, fresh inspiration, and experiences that engage our emotions. Design plays a vital role in shaping our lived experiences, and materials are the tactile tools we use to do so. If you founded a materials company, you chose to participate in this world. Ignore it at your peril!
More importantly, by mimicking an existing material, you risk reducing your innovation to a commodity. This undermines your hard work—and your investors' money. Most materials will never perfectly mimic the look and feel of animal leather, so stop comparing. A better strategy is to embrace what your material can uniquely do, sparking a new conversation.
What is Your Design Point of View?
If you’re smart, you’ll realize you started a design company (not a technology company). But don’t expect your customers to tell you what to design—it’s not their job. They’re focused on their own needs and preferences. To achieve the market share you’re aiming for, your materials need to appeal to a wide range of customers across various segments and markets—fashion, furniture, automotive, and beyond. Each industry has its own perspective on color, texture, print, touch, and drape.
The best brands have a clear design point of view. Nike doesn’t ask what kind of shoe you want; it offers customers a constantly evolving array of desirable options—new shapes, colors, patterns, fabrications, and enhanced comfort and performance experiences.
How are you deciding which colors to show potential customers? Is it a lab scientist randomly picking pigments, or is there a thoughtful strategy based on trends and customer feedback? How can your material explore color—is it applied on the surface, or can it be integrated into the formulation? What opportunities might that unlock? Can the surface be embossed or printed? How can you combine color, texture, and print for dramatic effect? What's the relationship between your material’s chemistry and production methods, with drape and feel? Have you explored different finishes for unique tactile experiences—waxy, oily, dry?
Are you translating creative feedback from potential customers into an experimental plan? Who on your team is responsible for listening, translating, and implementing that feedback into your next iteration? Instead of being reactive, who is leading your creative direction? How can you present a cohesive, directional point of view that reflects your unique material design world?
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Arm Yourself with Design Talent
If you're reading this and starting to panic, don't. The good news is, there are many designers out there who can help. Here’s a strategy to get you started: hire a freelancer to quickly level up your materials.
Begin by helping them understand your current product/s. Outline a design project that will elevate these materials to attract the customers you need. Can they build an industry-specific, trend-led color palette tailored to your target market? Do they have experience with textiles or other supple materials? How skilled are they in designing prints and textural effects? Request their portfolio to get a feel for their work. This step will give you a sense of their style and expertise, helping you choose the best fit for your project.
Alternatively, you might decide that this requires a dedicated team member. Start by defining the profile of your ideal hire. This could begin as an internship with the potential to grow into a full-time role, or you might target a more experienced candidate from the outset. Remember, ‘culture fit’ is crucial. Who will this person need to interact with daily—the business team, the lab team, or both?
Each approach has pros and cons. Hiring a freelancer allows you to move quickly without the commitment of a full-time hire. However, freelancers might lack familiarity with the biomaterials space, which means they could need time to understand your material's limitations and the competitive landscape. External expertise is best viewed as a short-term fix—a way to test design talent as you build out this function in-house.
In contrast, a full-time design team member offers long-term benefits. They can grow with the technology, adapt to what is and isn’t technically possible, listen to customer feedback, and evolve your offerings over time. Building a cohesive collection of materials is not a one-time project; it’s a seasonal, ongoing process. The right hire will help your company stand out in the market and drive business development.
Consider your immediate needs versus long-term goals. Do you need a quick design boost now, or are you ready to invest in an in-house talent who can shape the future of your product?
How do I Find a Designer?!
The Biofabricate Community Membership is an excellent starting point. It attracts both creatives and scientists eager to break into this space. Keep an eye on our Community project showcase, where creatives from around the world present their work, hoping to get their foot in the door.
Universities are also great talent pools. Many now offer biodesign courses, with leading programs at Central Saint Martins, RISD, FIT, Parsons, Universidad de los Andes, and Willem de Kooning. Additionally, check out alumni from initiatives like the Biodesign Challenge and platforms such as the Biocreative Index or Behance.
Action Items:
Engage Now! - It’s Design Season!
Now is the most crucial design season. We’re in the midst of the Spring/Summer 2025 fashion weeks. This week, follow shows in Milan, and remember Paris Fashion Week wraps up the season. You can access the full calendar here. Most events are either streamed live or available to watch afterward, so no invite is needed. Pay close attention to accessories—the colors, patterns, textures, and forms being showcased are key indicators of what excites designers right now. How do your current materials fit into this world?
If you're in London, immerse yourself in design at the London Design Festival, running until the 22nd. In Europe, don’t miss Dutch Design Week starting on October 19th—it's one of the best for scouting future trends and talent. Many brand design and innovation teams will be there, looking for the next big thing.
Design to Inspire
Over 20 years ago, I ventured into biomaterials—not out of environmental concerns, but as a science fiction fan and fashion designer captivated by their vast potential. Today, we are on the cusp of a revolutionary era in fashion, footwear, interiors, and beyond—if only innovators and investors possess the audacity to allow design to steer the course. Your material can be so much more!