FROM INDIA TO THE WORLD: BHERUGARH’s BATIK PRINTING

Ancient India has made significant contributions to the world in various fields, including mathematics, science, philosophy, and spirituality. Many of these contributions have had a profound impact on the world. For example, the concepts of zero and the decimal system, which were developed in ancient India, are now used in mathematics and accounting around the world. The practice of yoga, which originated in ancient India, has become a popular form of exercise and stress relief in the Western world. While concepts of Zero, Yoga and Ayurveda are perhaps better known contributions from India, there are some lesser known contributions from India that have gained global recognition. In this series of articles, we will be telling you about these lesser known contributions of India to the world.

Batik printing is a beautiful art form that involves using wax and dye to create intricate patterns on fabric. The history of this technique traces back to 2000 years, originally it came from Indonesia and is known for its rich colors and detailed designs. Over time, batik spread to other parts of the world, including India, where it began to blend with local artistic traditions.

The Bherugarh print of India gets its name from the small village of Bherugarh, located near Ujjain in Madhya Pradesh, India. Bherugarh is famous for its Kal Bhairv temple and has long been a hub for traditional textile production. Today, its name has become synonymous with a distinctive style of batik printing that emerged in the area. The Bherugarh print is renowned for its unique patterns and vibrant colors, which uses traditional techniques with local influences. By naming the print after Bherugarh, the artisans honor the village's role in preserving and evolving this traditional craft.

The Art of Bherugarh printing:

1. Design Creation:

The first step involves conceptualizing the design. The artisan sketches out patterns, often inspired by nature, local traditions, mythology, or geometric shapes, onto the fabric using a pencil or charcoal. These designs are typically unique which may include local fairs, markets, tribal art or flowers to reflect Bherugarh’s cultural heritage and tradition.

2. Wax Application:

After the design is prepared, the wax-resist process begins. A mixture of beeswax and paraffin wax is applied to the fabric using tools like a tjanting (a spouted tool) or brushes. This wax covers the areas of the fabric that should remain uncolored, effectively acting as a barrier to the dye. In Bherugarh, traditional artisans use natural waxes and locally sourced tools to ensure a refined, precise application.

3. Dyeing:

Once the wax has dried, the fabric is immersed in dye. Artisans often use natural dyes derived from plant roots, leaves, and flowers to give the fabric rich, earthy hues. The fabric is dipped in the dye, allowing it to seep into the non-waxed areas. After drying, additional layers of wax are applied for multi-colored designs. The process of dyeing and waxing may be repeated multiple times to achieve intricate, multi-colored patterns.

4. Wax Removal:

After the fabric has been dyed and dried, the wax is removed by either boiling or ironing the fabric between absorbent materials, which absorbs the wax. The wax is carefully scraped off, revealing the vibrant design underneath. The unique crackle effect, a characteristic of Batik, is a result of the wax cracking during the dyeing process, allowing the dye to seep into the fine lines.

5. Finishing Touches:

The finished Batik fabric is washed, dried, and ironed to smooth out any wrinkles or irregularities. Artisans often hand-finish their pieces, adding fine details or embellishments that enhance the overall design.

Bherugarh’s unique Batik Designs:

Ujjain’s Bherugarh being a historically rich city, has nurtured and developed this craft for centuries. The Batik designs originating from the town are deeply intertwined with the region’s cultural and religious traditions. Bherugarh’s Batik designs can be classified into several distinct categories:

1.   Mythological Motifs:

Ujjain is home to the Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga, one of the most revered temples of Lord Shiva. This strong association with Hindu mythology is often visible in the Batik designs. Motifs depicting deities, mythological scenes, and spiritual symbols like the trident (Trishul) and lotus flower are common in Bherugarh’s Batik.

2.   Geometric Patterns:

Artisan’s also use geometric shapes in their designs. Symmetrical patterns like triangles, circles, and squares are carefully combined to create eye-catching designs. These patterns are often stylized and repetitive, making them versatile for both contemporary fashion and home décor.

3.   Floral and Nature-Inspired Designs:

Flowers, trees, and birds are recurring themes in Bherugarh’s Batik print. Nature's beauty is captured in the delicate, detailed representations of flora and fauna, providing a soft, elegant touch to the fabric. These motifs reflect the region's deep connection with the natural world, often interpreted with vivid colors and intricate detailing.

4.     Traditional Border Patterns:

In many cases, Bherugarh’s Batik is known for its distinct border designs. Elaborate borders with repetitive patterns, inspired by temple architecture or local craftsmanship, frame the fabric. These borders add a sense of completeness and elegance to the fabric, distinguishing it from other regional Batik styles.

Types of Materials Used in Bherugarh Printing

1. Cotton:

Cotton is the most widely used fabric for Bherugarh’s Batik printing. Cotton is a breathable, durable, and easy-to-dye material. Its natural fibers hold colors well, ensuring that the intricate designs stand out crisply. Moreover, cotton is comfortable to wear in the hot climate of Madhya Pradesh, making it a popular choice for sarees, dress materials, and home textiles.

2. Silk:

For more luxurious creations, artisans use silk. The natural sheen and soft texture of silk elevate the Batik designs, giving them fine finishing. Silk Batik is often used for high-end clothing, scarves, and special occasion wear. Its ability to absorb dyes brilliantly makes the colors richer and more vibrant, adding a layer of elegance to the Bherugarh’s Batik prints.

3. Rayon:

Rayon, a semi-synthetic fiber, is also used for printing due to its smooth texture and versatility. It has the fluidity of silk but is more affordable, making it a popular choice for casual wear, including tunics, scarves, and summer dresses. Its ability to take on dyes well and drape beautifully makes it ideal for modern designs.

4. Wool:

Although not as common, wool is occasionally used for Bherugarh printing. The fabric’s thickness and warmth make it ideal for shawls and stoles, particularly during the winter months. Wool absorbs natural dyes well, though the process of waxing and dyeing on wool can be more complex due to its texture.

Contemporary Relevance of Batik Printing:

Batik printing, though an ancient art form, continues to thrive in Ujjain’ Bherugarh and has adapted to modern sensibilities. The demand for eco-friendly, sustainable fashion has brought Bherugarh Printing back into the spotlight. Artisans are now incorporating contemporary designs to appeal to a global audience, blending traditional motifs with modern styles to create versatile, fashionable pieces.

Bherugarh print’s products range from sarees, scarves, and dress materials to home décor items like curtains, cushion covers, and wall hangings. The versatility of Bherugarh’s design and use has helped it stay relevant in today's market, both in India and internationally.

The Bherugarh’s Batik industry has also benefited from government initiatives and NGO support aimed at promoting traditional crafts. Efforts to preserve and promote Bherugarh print have led to the training of younger artisans, enabling them to adapt the art form to contemporary tastes without losing its traditional essence. Digital platforms and e-commerce have further expanded the reach of Ujjain's Batik, allowing artisans to sell their products beyond local markets.

In recognition of Bherugarh’s cultural and historical significance, Ujjain Batik Print has received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2023.