From Scent Cosmos to Flower Molecules: The Journey of Perfume Innovation

Two projects garnered the "Most Innovative Technology in the Fragrance Industry award" at the Barcelona Perfumery Congress 2023 held end of November and organized by the Beauty Cluster .

1. SCENTCOSMOS

THE FIRST SCENT MAP FOR PERFUME LOVERS & AND ASTRONAUTS

A Universe of Scents at Your Fingertips

Imagine having the ability to visualize the olfactive relationships among an expansive universe of over 20.000 perfumes. ScentCosmos makes this a reality. It is not just a database; it's a comprehensive visualization tool that maps the olfactive distance between thousands of fragrances. This innovative platform allows us to explore and understand the intricate connections and subtle differences between scents in a novel way.

ScentCosmo video at the Barcelona Perfumery Congress 2025 (LINK)

The Genesis of ScentCosmos: Fostering Open Innovation

We believe in the power of open innovation. The creation of ScentCosmos was driven by our desire to share the backbone of our scent recommendation engine with other industry players. Our goal was to transcend traditional boundaries and foster a collaborative environment where industry players can come together to explore and innovate. By making this platform accessible to partners, we aim to enrich the entire industry, enhancing the way perfumers, brands, and enthusiasts understand and experience the world of fragrances.

ScentCosmos at the Barcelona Perfumery Congress: A Hands-On Experience

The ScentCosmos platform was opened to all visitors to the Barcelona Perfumery Congress 2025 . Visitors were invited to interact with the technology, delving into the vast olfactive landscape we have curated.

2. E.PURE JUNGLE ESSENCE

THE REBIRTH OF ENFLEURAGE

MANE ´s Jungle Essence technology, allows the company to produce speciality extracts, akin to captive, using a gas extraction method that follows the guidelines of green chemistry and has a limited impact on the environment. Mane's Jungle Essence technology also involves the reinvention of enfleurage by associating it with the technique used to produce Jungle Essence extracts – supercritical fluid extraction, resulting in E-Pure Jungle Essence extracts that exhibit an extraordinary olfactive rendering

MANE supports the Red List Project, a non-profit organisation committed to addressing the global plant extinction crisis, with this technology.

For example, Magnolia Mashpi ID JUNGLE ESSENCE™ is a project that "rescues" a brand-new flower. Native to the cloud forest of Ecuador’s Choco region, Magnolia mashpi is what we refer to as a keystone species. This means that its existence is critical for its entire ecosystem. The flower from this incredible yet vulnerable tree offers an impression that is more delicate, sun-drenched, creamier, and greener than a traditional Magnolia Essential Oil, with nuances of pear nectar, peach, gardenia, and jasmine. The partnership with The Red List Project was built around the desire to facilitate genuine plant conservation paired with the ability to bring new and authentic fragrance signatures to life. What makes this partnership unique is that no plants will ever be commercially harvested from the wild. Rather, by utilising MANE ´s proprietary JUNGLE ESSENCE™ extraction technology and 100% biodegradable materials, perfumers can analyse and authentically recreate the quintessence of this flower. Furthermore, a % of the proceeds from fragrance sales containing Magnolia Mashpi ID JUNGLE ESSENCE™ are to be shared with their in-country partners via TRLP and Mashpi Lodge and Reserve to continue to fund the conservation work.

The last technology I want to mention, even if it was competing in another category is that of Cosmo International Ingredients, a company that has partnered with L'Oréal and has taken headlines recently.

3. Best natural ingredient for fragrance award: Myrtle Inca Essence

Cosmo International Fragrances has introduced a novel eco-friendly extraction process that uses a waterless, low-energy, slow extraction technique, harnessing the volatile fragrance molecules of flowers, fruits, and other natural ingredients using only air. This process preserves the integrity of the ingredients and reduces waste by allowing the recycled and reuse of the natural ingredients in a second extraction.

Myrtle Inca Essence an extraordinary, ethically sourced, sustainable perfumery ingredient.”

Yannick Maestro, Director of Ingredients Division

Cosmo created an exclusive partnership with the passionate Quechua women who live in a remote area south of Cusco. Thousands of Arrayán seedlings were given to the community, a drying shed was financed by Cosmo and joint efforts were made to adopt the best growing and drying practices. (Link to video)

Cosmo’s Myrtle Inca Essence is surprisingly multifaceted, encompassing aromatic resinous notes, the freshness of eucalyptus, leafy woods and even apricot’s soft fruitiness.

You may have come across Myrtle if you have smelled fabulous perfumes such as Acqua di Parma´s Blu Mediterraneo, Tom Ford Private Blend Costa Azzurra Acqua or Viktor & Rolph Antidote to name a few (Source WikiParfum and Fragrances of the World | I hope one day we will have more information about the source of naturals).

#scentinnovation #perfumeingredients #scentmapping #perfumenaturalingredients #thefutureoffragrance #beautycluster