Gold medal service: Richard Cornish shares his tips on what makes for memorable service

I have the best job in the world. I get paid to eat in restaurants, pubs, clubs and diners. And when someone else is serving me, bringing me lovely things to eat and drink, I love every minute of it. But, to tell the truth, the most memorable aspect of the places I eat is the service. When it’s bad, it can be frustrating and sometimes laughable. When it is good, however, it is pure gold.

Venues that excel in service have nailed their sequence of service and seamlessly integrate front-of-house with the kitchen. Everything appears effortless. It’s pure theatre.

It always starts with the booking. Most venues use apps, but some still take phone bookings. A friendly, smiley voice is always a good start. Someone who is confident and sounds like they are trying to help you – offering alternatives if they don’t have a table for you on the night you want. I appreciate apps with well-worded phrases that make you feel like the customer and that you’re welcome. The T&Cs on some online booking services are not written with the customer in mind and can make you feel like you have done something wrong.

The greeting is crucial as it sets the tone. When someone walks up to you and makes you feel welcome, takes your jacket, shows you where the table is and explains the service, you feel like everything is going to be alright. I know it’s often scripted, but when delivered well, a pleasant greeting can change one’s mood.

The sequence of service needs to be taught to all staff so they can read the cues left by other wait staff. It changes subtly from venue to venue, but it is reassuring to have the water down on the table. I could be parched, but it also signals that service is underway. Next are the menus. I love it when menus are handled with reverence. The communication of specials needs to be unprompted and delivered at an understandable speed – while the now necessary requirement of asking about dietary needs should be treated both seriously and compassionately.

Venues that start talking about beverages very early in the conversation know their business. They are planting the idea of a drink as if it is a foregone conclusion. Sometimes, just the words, “Something to start? Bubbles? A dry martini?” make you feel special.

Taking orders efficiently is a given. Diners need just enough time to order but not so much that they feel forgotten. Communicating any delays from the kitchen is essential – waiting without knowing what’s going is a sure-fire way to upset a diners.

Food delivery needs to be a matter of urgency. No one likes seeing food under the heat lamps for a second longer than necessary. Each dish should be presented to the correct guest with clear descriptions. Any issues, such as incorrect orders or special requests, should be addressed promptly.

Once the first dishes are down, the pressure eases for a moment, but full points go to staff who check in once during each course, even if it is just to make eye contact. Clearing dishes away once all the diners are done is a given. Black marks for any wait staff who leave dirty plates on the table. Offers of extras such as dessert, cheese, tea, coffee, liqueur or a digestive is always appreciated.

But a delay in receiving the bill infuriates many. While some diners may linger after receiving the check, some may need to leave promptly.

Finally, the goodbye. I recently watched staff in a gastropub lose considerable goodwill when some guests came to the bar to say goodbye, only to have the wait staff turn their backs on them. Bid farewell to guests warmly and sincerely. Express gratitude for their visit and invite them to return. Offering guests assistance with coats or belongings as they prepare to leave makes them feel remembered. That they’re special. And they now have a connection. This can make all the difference, leading to repeat visits, positive online reviews or sometimes, even accolades from food critics.