India's Coffee Connection

India's connection to coffee is a story that spans continents and centuries, involving ancient trade routes, the influence of Sufi saints, and the Indian tradition of leisurely conversations. The history of coffee itself can be traced back to Ethiopia, where a shepherd's observation of his sheep's increased energy after consuming berries from a particular plant sparked a journey that would change the world.

This discovery led to the fine-tuned process of roasting coffee beans to perfection and the exquisite brews we enjoy today. While the tale of the Ethiopian shepherd lacks concrete evidence, the earliest known reference to people consuming coffee as a beverage dates back to Yemen in the Arabian Peninsula during the 14th or 15th century CE. Since then, coffee has become a global phenomenon, with India playing a unique role in its cultivation and consumption.

The word 'coffee' has a fascinating historical journey, originating from the Arabic term qahhwat al-bun, which translates to 'wine of the bean.' This beverage, although not as intoxicating as grape wine, was regarded with a similar appreciation. It's interesting to note that what we commonly refer to as coffee 'beans' are actually the pits of a red fruit known as a coffee 'cherry.' This unique fact underscores the long and complex journey of coffee.

The practice of roasting and brewing coffee, much like today, was documented in Arabia during the 15th century. It is believed that Sufi saints used coffee to stay awake during their lengthy religious practices. By the 16th century, the consumption of coffee had spread beyond Arabia, marking a significant milestone in its historical journey, captivating other regions in the Middle East, Persia, Turkey, and North Africa.

For a significant period, the coffee plant was highly valued to the extent that individuals were prohibited from transporting its seeds out of the Arabian Peninsula. Only roasted beans, which were infertile and incapable of germinating into coffee plants, were permitted to be taken beyond the region. This measure aimed to ensure that the Middle East maintained its dominance in coffee production, with even the Mughals initially importing coffee from this area. It wasn't until the 16th century that a traveling Sufi mystic changed this practice. Baba Budan, hailing from Chikmaglur in present-day Karnataka and residing in a hillside cave, was revered by both Hindus and Muslims.

During one of his journeys to Mecca for Hajj, he reportedly smuggled seven raw coffee seeds from the Yemeni port of Mocha concealed in his robes. Upon returning, he planted these seeds on the slopes of the Chandragiri hills, close to the caves where he and his disciples resided. The coffee produced from these plants, a result of his daring act, was eventually served to the local community as a beverage, significantly enriching their lives. Even today, coffee cultivation continues in these hills, and the region is known as 'Baba Budangiri,' which is home to the tomb of the revered saint.

The first recorded instance of coffee consumption was documented by Reverend Edward Terry at the court of Emperor Jehangir in 1616. Rev Terry, who served as the chaplain to Sir Thomas Roe, the ambassador of the King of England, provided a detailed description of how coffee was used in India. He noted that many Indians, particularly those who were religiously devout and abstained from alcohol, consumed a beverage known as coffee.

This drink, made by boiling a black seed in water, was considered not very tasty but beneficial for digestion, uplifting the spirits, and purifying the blood. During the 17th century, coffee gained popularity among upper-class Indians. It became an integral part of daily life in Mughal cities. It was commonly served in public spaces called qahwahkhanas (coffee houses), with many such establishments found in Shahjahanabad near Delhi's Red Fort, particularly in the renowned Chandni Chowk area.

These coffee houses, more than just physical spaces, were the catalysts for social and intellectual gatherings. Poets would gather, their verses resonating, while scholars and ordinary people would engage in lively discussions on current affairs. A vibrant culture of music, dance, poetry, and conversation thrived in various parts of the city.

Much like the modern-day cafes, the qahwahkhanas in 17th-century Delhi were a hub for conversation and interactions, all sparked by the invigorating properties of coffee. However, with the decline of Mughal influence and the growing preference for tea among the British, the coffee culture in Mughal India began to fade. Yet, it would not be long before it would resurface, reclaiming its place over the following two centuries.

From Mecca to Istanbul and Shahjahanabad, coffee was the favored beverage throughout the Islamic world. Its introduction to Europe came via Venice, thanks to flourishing trade routes linking the Arab world, North Africa, and Venice, which brought various goods, including coffee, to Italy. However, in predominantly Catholic Italy, coffee was initially viewed as a 'Muslim drink' and faced attempts at prohibition. Then, in a moment that would change the course of history, Pope Clement VIII tried coffee and found it too good to be kept from Christians. He blessed coffee and declared it a 'Christian beverage,' leading to its wider acceptance. Following this approval by the church, the Italians introduced coffee to Europe.

By the late 17th century, the first European coffeehouses were thriving in Continental Europe, Britain, and its colonies in America. Until the 17th century, the Middle East dominated commercial coffee production. However, from the 17th century onwards, coffee cultivation rapidly expanded to regions visited by European traders, such as Java and other islands in the Indonesian archipelago, the Americas in the 18th century, and eventually Brazil and the Hawaiian Islands.

The swift spread of coffee cultivation led to a shift in the center of coffee production from Arabia to the Western hemisphere by the 20th century. This change resulted from exchanging plants, animals, ideas, cultures, and people between the Old World and the New, commonly known as the 'Columbian Exchange,' named after the famous explorer Christopher Columbus.

Interestingly, the potent drink not only acquired political significance in America during the 18th-century Boston Tea Party but also became a catalyst for cultural exchange. In this event, American Revolutionaries symbolically discarded 342 chests of tea from the East India Company into Boston Harbor, sparking the American War of Independence and leading to a decrease in tea consumption. This, in turn, paved the way for a rise in coffee consumption in the United States. Equally fascinating, the British, recognizing the potential of coffee, established Arabica coffee plantations in the mountains of Southern India. The British East India Company's efforts not only made coffee a household name in England but also reintroduced it to India, where commercial coffee cultivation began over 200 years after Rev. Terry first mentioned coffee consumption in 1616.

By the mid-19th century, coffee had become a staple in the numerous exclusive clubs that emerged throughout India, starting with the Bengal Club in Calcutta in 1827, followed by the Madras Club in 1832 and the Bangalore Club in 1863. The establishment of hill stations in the north and south, along with the expansion of British administration to rural areas, further disseminated the practice of coffee drinking. The Victorians, in particular, embraced post-dinner coffee, a tradition that found a home in India.

India, the sixth-largest coffee producer worldwide, cultivates 16 distinct coffee varieties in regions across Karnataka, Kerala, and Tamil Nadu. The Indian Coffee House chain, a cultural icon, not only played a significant role in popularizing coffee in India but also fostered intellectual discussions.

Launched by the Coffee Cess Committee in 1936, this initiative aimed to boost the consumption and sales of Indian coffee both domestically and internationally. The first outlet was established on Churchgate Street in Bombay on September 28, 1936. At its peak, the chain operated 72 branches throughout India, introducing the coffee culture to regions more accustomed to tea. It became a renowned meeting place for lively discussions on literature, art, social issues, and the evolving dynamics of Indian society during pre-liberalization of India.

Today, there are various types of coffee available, with moccacino or mocha coffee being among the most popular choices. Despite its trendy image, this coffee is actually named after the port of Mocha in Yemen, where beans were once known for their chocolate undertones. Although the current beans might not have the same flavor, the association with chocolate remains for any coffee with a cacao element. One of the most unique and pricey coffees hails from Indonesia, known as kopi luwak. This coffee is gathered from the excrement of the Asian palm civet, a cat-like creature, after it has been digested.

It is believed that the digestion process gives the coffee a complex and well-rounded taste, with a single cup costing over $50. Traveling from the Ethiopian highlands to the qahwakhanas of Shahjahanabad, the cafes of Italy, America, and back to India, coffee has had a remarkable journey. It currently stands as the world's second most traded commodity after oil, and is undoubtedly cherished. While the beverage has progressed, its fundamental role remains constant. Coffee continues to encourage the sharing of thoughts, sparks conversations and fosters innovation - whether in the traditional qahwahkhanas of Old Delhi or the modern cafes of Silicon Valley.