Introduction to Contemporary Jewellery Art and My Contemporary Jewellery Shop
Introduction to Contemporary Jewellery Art and My Contemporary Jewellery Shop
LENG YUN FASHION COMMUNITY
The following Leng Yun Fashion Circle discussion is a summary of the industry issues. This sharing is the crystallization of collective wisdom. (They do not represent Leng's personal views). I hope to benefit more people in this way! If you want to join Leng Yun Fashion Circle, please add woshi lengyun according to the format "name + leng yunfashion circle." via Wechat.
Authors’ information
Introduction
In modern life, people’s pursuit of fashion has been extended to fashion jewellery. Compared to the last few years, fashion jewellery industry now has begun to shape. And more and more brands will continue to develop in this field. Let us understand the current fashion jewellery industry status together!
What is Contemporary Art Jewellery?
1.The Origins of Contemporary Art Jewelry
What is "contemporary" art jewellery? Contemporary art jewellery originated in the 1940s and 1960s. With the emergence of modernist art, artists began to care more about the "personal" and "philosophical thinking" contained in their works. Jewellery art changed a lot at that time. Instead of expensive traditional decorative jewellery, jewellery artists pay more attention to "getting rid of the shackles of material on the work," using ordinary or even cheap materials to make jewellery. They advocate jewellery as a reflection of "personal thinking" and express "criticism of preciousness."
I have a video on my side of a contemporary art jewellery background. I will share the link here, and everyone can go to see 1955 adorable video. Through the following video, you can have a more comprehensive understanding of contemporary art jewellery.
[Vintage exaggerated earring classic video data]
2.Characteristics of contemporary jewellery
(1) Material:
Jewellery represented by the "uniqueness" of materials is a type of contemporary jewellery. At first glance, people are curious about jewellery because of its material and then realize the meaning behind the work. In cleaning up the creation, the artist discovered the possibility of a material being "unique" through "material experiment" and took it as his representative material.
Brand Case:
CCHEN SQUAREQ, this is our current cooperation brand. The manager is a graduate of the London College of Art and is very good at using PVC. She belongs to the designer who takes PVC to the extreme. Here are all her works.
(2) Concept:
Through jewellery, starting from the concept to express their thinking about the world - such as social phenomenon, perception of life, nature, environmental protection, and the meaning of jewellery. Jewellery is only a medium for artists to express their ideas, even sometimes not necessarily "jewellery wear."
As for the idea, we have a documentary about "Frog Country" in London in 2019. The jewellery itself is a kind of frog-shaped and then expresses opinions—a little bit like abstract performance art.
(3) Wearing:
The range of contemporary jewellery does not only include what we call "jewellery," that is, absolutely wearable body ornaments. There is another category under this category, known as "Object." It can be a "vessel," "city wear jewellery (decorative arts in some sense)", can also be a display or decoration.
3. Forms of contemporary jewellery
Contemporary jewellery with innovations in the way jewellery is worn. This kind of artist is similar to the idea-based artist. Still, from the path of wearing, artists care more about the interaction between the work and the wearer, that is, "jewellery can only be called jewellery if it has contact with the body." They focus on subverting traditional forms of jewellery use.
Blackpink previously made a comeback, wearing a ring from South Korean manicurist Park Eunkyung's private label UNISTELLA. If I show the pictures, people should remember. Before that, we only knew there were earrings jewellery rings, but they launched a ring, this one brand on the drive a category.
Sharing the style of operation of the jewellery brand in China
Next, I will share with you a representative jewellery brand operating style. Have you visited OOAK? OOAK brand is currently more successful jewellery Boutique Store from the brand collection store to the signing designer brand.
Their first store opened in Shanghai Changle Road community, due to rent early, which is relatively low, OOAK early operating costs significantly reduced.
Secondly, they do a special early micro-blog operation. Customers do an in-depth process, sticky high. Star PR is also more mature. In 2020 Tan Zhuo signed OOAK as a brand image master. Before this, the more well-known cases of buyer brands signing artists are Kris Wu's cooperation with I.T Group. He became I.T's global spokesperson.
In terms of branding, through high-profile Alexander Wang、JW Anderson、Marni、MM6 、Maison Margiela and other big names, attracting the original customer groups, and then cooperating with domestic niche designer brands. The more successful case is "YVMIN."
OOAK signed a contract to train designers under the banner of "OOACK" to participate in the Showroom as a brand, and then cooperate with more buyers to ensure the cash flow and profit margin. "OOAK" crossover trend series has now completed 7 Series. OOAK is a very representative case of "buying shop to create your brand."
Bazaar Jewelry previously did a collection of fine jewellery brands and contemporary jewellery brands at the Dragon Art Museum in Shanghai. There is a high jewellery brand ER.DONG brand, "brand manager" Chen Weiyang's personal history as the entry point, from Bazaar jewellery to undertake the transition from high jewellery to silver jewellery. "ER.DONG Jewellery" is appraised by Bazaar Jewelry Magazine's editor as the most aesthetic jewellery brand after the 90s. Its design work walked into the Guardian auction, online less than a minute for $900,000.
The August 2020 issue of Bazaar Jewelry Magazine features the ER.DONG jewellery collection of ancient coins, right up there with Bulgari. In collaboration with Bazaar Jewellery and star Ayunga, we will launch a charity collection in early December. 8% of the proceeds will be donated to children with hearing impairment.
Through the charity event and jewellery magazine to promote the brand set the tone and gained a part of the artist fans. And it sold more than 300,000 live online that night. The brand's success is that the original customer base is excellent, and Haut-Couture jewellery opened a fashion jewellery line to attract more people's favour.
If OOAK and ER.DONG are not wildly out of the circle; we must have brushed KVK this brand. Whether it's Little Red Book or Vibrato or artist with the same section, KVK has had a high rate of appearances lately. KVK less than a year to do Taobao industry categories of the top 10 jewellery brands, is the community operation and live with the best products. At present, Little Red Book KVK has more than 10,000 + notes and has read more than ten million. A large number of star PR / KOL / KOC grass notes the formation of the phenomenal "KVK wave." The brand is an online-only sales model that quickly monetizes the "fan economy."
In 2020, KVK always tried to live with goods. In May, a single live Via night sales of more than 10 million, the performance is awe-inspiring for a new niche jewellery brand. KVK and the YVMIN, as mentioned above, are both niche designer brands whose capital power is more significant than the latter. They also opened up a trend of joint partners, reflecting the brand to do joint is very important; it is easy to circle. Below is my quick screenshot of its brand business circle of friends, visible their artists PR resources are also outstanding.
KVK and Youmu are fascinating designer brands. I have seen cooperation with Youmei jewellery in the women's clothing brand lily store. And KVK's design and vision both left a good impression on me.
The background of a brand manager can significantly influence the style and positioning of the brand. KVK's designers started as industrial designers. We can feel that KVK's products are more decorative than jewellery sense; especially the designer's purpose is Yang Mei Keban born jewellery design professional. The use of materials to control is very in place. Product style, You will consider more comfortable wear. KVK will be a little more urban cold. I have seen a video of Givenchy's Jewellery Collection for 2018, which pays tribute to the contemporary jewellery art of the 1980s. When I see this video, I have very "KVK feeling". Jewellery itself is more artistic than a decorative role.
If there is no capital help, there is also a small budget strategy, and the important thing is the sales side to do brand awareness and design. Like OOAK is a model that most buyers can refer to, the market rhythm carries many people. It is elementary to deviate, and finally, where is their positioning? Who to serve? I can't figure it out. Nature can not do their differentiation. So it is crucial to locate the style of the shop from the beginning.
How to open a Boutique Store
1.Store Style Positioning
Current information circulation, high information transparency, high online traffic activity, and the impact of the epidemic situation, the comprehensive requirements for buyers continually improving, from the aesthetic selection, creative content to service experience links, etc., are an indispensable part.
I also opened a shop for more than a year. Take us, Hella Bay Party. Our target group is "Emerging Crowd," aged 20-30. Therefore, the target age group of customers is low. The innovation of material will be higher, the fashion sense of products is strong, and star PR will do more. The price of cooperation is lower than the available designer brand.
Simultaneously, now customers pay more and more attention to the experience; it is vital to improving the experience. Like our own shop, there is a coffee area for people to shoot and relax. Not just shopping, but providing a place to share an afternoon with friends. Buy not only goods but also enjoyment.
2.Brand settled channel
There is a channel that we are currently implementing, that is, overseas selection. First of all, you need to run a good INS account, actively looking for jewellery artists to cooperate, directly establishing cooperation with the brand. The discount will be lower relative to the order, which is also a reflection of the Boutique Store's independence. But relatively, the buyer requirements are incredibly high, need not only fluent communication level, but also need overseas buyers tastes and consistency with the brand tone.
3.How to drain a Boutique Store
(1) Do a good job of overall vision VISI, completed and designed brand vision is a magic weapon. Shop from logo space decoration to visual materials are the basis of winning.
It is the boutique store I currently run, visually decorated in a "cyberpunk" style. The entire hollow space is for rest.
[Hangzhou's first museum modeling , Niche Brand Jewelry Boutique Store]
For daily activities, HBP set up a coffee area in the store for daily drainage. Online promotion is currently used more in the store number of the little red book. Artists wear micro-blogging words interactive. IP, or a collaborative group of independent artists, is currently set up under Hella Bay Party, a dedicated brand for collaboration. Cooperation products include the Dege Printing Institute's design and the Royal Academy of Art designer cooperation water series.
Supplement
1. Showroom Testimonials
I have compiled some high-quality domestic showroom to share with you (not only including jewellery brands):
MODE Shanghai Fashion Fair: Shanghai fashion week official exhibition, the exhibition is a different SHOWROOM, TANC Showroom is its own showroom.
ON-TIME SHOW: the most designer brands involved, the annual fashion is exceptionally high.
Shitang: In recent years, the development is very rapid, participating in jewellery brands in 20-30.
NOT SHOWROOM: Pillars of the leading push brand, but the order threshold is relatively high.
WAVE SHOWROOM: brand style is relatively young, good at pushing innovative brands.
RYO DAN SHOWROOM: Founding team PR creative background, vision is very advanced, cooperation brand is relatively high-end.
DFO SHOWROOM: Private appointment system, not many participating brands, international brands do more.
TUDO SHOWROOM: the standard exhibition hall, like Australian femininity buyers, can understand.
BLOOMING SHOWROOM: Korean designers are more small and beautiful channels; order threshold is lower.
TUBE SHOWROOM: Old Showroom, the brand lineup is bigger
2. Ornament Appreciation
It is a chi-square brand ring that we participated in shooting ourselves. I think this brand represents contemporary jewellery art, reflecting the symbiotic relationship between people and jewellery. In these pictures, why did we shoot in the water? That is because we were in London, to reflect a kind of daily state: showing you in the bath, after a day alone to show fatigue, jewellery is still with you.
Kikimix jewellery products is a high set jewellery "civilian," the final return to jewellery in the brand. Let everyone to silver prices to buy high-value products.
3. Compare jewellery and clothing buyers. What are the most significant similarities and differences？
I think the biggest difference is the professional focus. The hat is, brand participation is different.
Before that, I believe everyone thought that jewellery is just an accessory category of apparel category. Still, now it has opened up its separate product chain, more and more designers and brands to join in, jewellery track gradually becomes lively.
Jewellery stores and clothing buyers shop the most prominent point in the same is: the basic operation model is the same. For style positioning, drainage promotion is the same pattern. Maybe you used to go to Dongliang, such as clothing Boutique Store, to buy jewellery, but now you will go directly to jewellery kind of Boutique Store.
Summary
I. What is contemporary art jewellery
1. The origin of contemporary art jewellery: With the emergence of modernist art, artists began to care more about the "personal" and "philosophical" contained in their works.
2. Characteristics of contemporary jewellery: from the material/idea/way of wearing.
3. Forms of contemporary jewellery: Can exist in any form in artistic life.
II. Share the typical operation style of jewellery brand in China
1. OOAK brand, from brand collection store to a contracted designer brand.
2. ER.DONG Brand, from fine jewellery brand to contemporary jewellery brand.
3. KVK brand, less than a year to do Taobao industry categories of the top ten jewellery brands.
III. How to Open a Boutique Store
1. Store style positioning is determined by the buyer's style and brand crowd positioning.
2. Brand Settlement Channel
Overseas can contact independent artists in China can participate in SHOWROOM.
3. How to drain a boutique store
Good vision, promotion of daily activities and the cross-border joint can bring the heat to the brand.
