Let Freedom Ring: What D-Day Teaches Us About War, Peace, and the Human Spirit

I've traveled a lot, but nothing compares to my visit to Omaha Beach in 2019 for the 75th anniversary of D-Day—the largest seaborne invasion in history and a major turning point in WWII.

During this unforgettable trip, my travel companion and I booked a private tour for the day. When our guide asked what would be important for us to see, I said I wanted to learn what wasn’t in the history books. And that’s exactly what we did.

Five years later, on the 80th anniversary of this pivotal historical day, I’m again reflecting (and updating this blog post) about what I learned and observed during my trip.

My Visit to Omaha Beach

Our visit began as a cloudy, overcast day, and there was an eerie quiet as we approached the beach. I was blown away by the expanse of the shores—four miles, our guide said. (Wikipedia says it’s five.)

We learned that the Allies had code names for everything, including Operation Overlord, the code name for the invasion. The beaches were Utah, Omaha, Juno, Gold, and Sword. Utah and Omaha because two of the senior officers were from those places. Then there were the three fishes: Jelly, Gold, and Sword. But one of the officer’s wives was Juno, so Jelly became Juno. (Remember, I wanted to learn what wasn’t in the history books.)

The tide had to be just right for the invasion, as the Germans had placed barbed wire, explosives, booby traps, and hedgerows in the sea—as well as tall wood columns known as “Rommel’s asparagus.” The Allied Forces determined they needed to launch the invasion at dawn on a rising tide with a full moon the night before. (Unfortunately, the night was cloudy, and some of the targets were missed.)

The High Cost of War

In addition to the many casualties caused by German guns and booby traps, many Allied soldiers died because of the heavy load they were carrying (44+ pounds). They had inflation belts around their waists, but when they entered the water, the heavy load tipped them over, face first into the sea. In hindsight, they should have worn the belts high up on their chests, but this simple solution was overlooked.

Allied planes began a systematic bombardment of road and rail infrastructure in Northwest France days and weeks before. American paratroopers of the 82nd and 101st Airborne Divisions went in early to free the town of Sainte-Mere Eglise. American Army Rangers scaled the steep cliffs on the west end of Omaha Beach and were the first to secure a place behind enemy lines. Today, a monument at Pointe du Hoc honors their efforts.

We also learned about the amazing work and courage of the resistance. French citizens funneled key intelligence to the Allied Forces and bombed bridges to prevent Panzer tanks from crossing. Rommel built the Atlantic Wall, a series of battlements that housed machine guns and soldiers. Many of Germany's conscripted—Russian, Polish, and French men who were forced to join their ranks—were also part of the resistance and communicated exact location information to the Allies.

It took a team effort to win the war. It also took great sacrifice.

We often forget that in addition to the soldiers who lost their lives in Normandy, French citizens suffered tremendously. Many were killed in the bombings. Germans took over their homes. There was severe rationing and the risk that one misstep could land you on a train to the Russian front—or worse.

Lessons I Won’t Forget

Imagine planning an invasion of a magnitude never experienced before, with 2 million men, half a million vehicles, 54,000 soldiers to feed, 4,500 cooks, and more than 2,700 ships. Then coordinating all divisions of the armed forces, gaining agreement from the 12 Allied countries, and sorting out differences of opinion almost daily until the final plan was agreed upon. Even at the last minute, several senior officers wanted to modify the plan based on new intelligence.

Only Eisenhower could give the order to invade. You’ll get a glimpse of the angst and the final preparations in the movie Churchill, with Brian Cox as Churchill and John Slattery as Eisenhower.

The film and book are both great ways to learn about this fateful day in history, but I didn’t fully grasp the magnitude of what happened until I saw those beaches with my own eyes. Visiting Normandy is a palpable reminder about the high cost of war and the value of peace.

(SIDENOTE: If you go, stay at this charming B&B, which was built in 1788 for the guests of Louis XVI. Our hosts were Sophie and Phillipe at Hotel Particulier POPPA. There are only four rooms, and I would recommend this in a heartbeat.)