Luxury Shoe Shelves Go Bare: India's New BIS Rules Cause a Supply Crunch

Luxury shoe enthusiasts in India may have to rethink their plans as boutique shelves turn sparse. Imported leather, suede, and satin shoes are stumbling under India’s newly implemented Quality Control Orders (QCOs). With delays in Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) certification, fresh stock could be months away, leaving sneakerheads and high-fashion lovers disappointed.

New BIS Rules Disrupt Supply Chains

Since August, India’s QCOs mandate that all luxury shoe imports undergo rigorous BIS certification, including factory audits and product tests. These norms apply regardless of manufacturing location, and testing equipment must be shipped to the factories, adding layers of complexity. Many brands are caught navigating the intricate processes, with certifications taking up to eight months to secure.

Soaring Costs Cripple Small Inventories

For luxury shoemakers, compliance isn’t cheap. Each shoe category requires ₹50 lakh upfront, annual costs of ₹1.5 lakh, legal fees, and testing expenses for products that don’t survive the process. With annual sales often below 50,000 pairs, this heavy investment squeezes margins, leaving brands struggling to keep up.

Old Stock Won’t Last Forever

While the government has allowed pre-August stock to be sold until July 2026, early inventory purchases by brands are running low. Many designs have also become outdated, and delays in restocking threaten to impact sales during peak shopping seasons.

Industry Cries for Exemptions

Luxury industry players argue that low annual sales and premium pricing differentiate them from mass-market footwear, warranting an exemption from the BIS requirements. The lack of preparation has left brands scrambling to meet compliance standards.

Uncertain Future for Luxury Shoe Sales

Luxury brands fear a steep drop in early 2025 sales if certifications remain delayed. Combined with a proposed GST hike to 10%, brands like Louis Vuitton and Santoni risk losing their competitive edge during peak demand periods.

Consumers and Brands Await Relief

Without expedited approvals or exemptions, both brands and customers are bracing for a prolonged dry spell. Whether BIS speeds up its processes or not, India’s luxury footwear market is in for a tough journey ahead.

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