Polonnaruwa: A Journey into the Past and Present of Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is a land of wonders, where ancient civilizations, diverse cultures, and natural beauty coexist in harmony. Among the many attractions Sri Lanka offers, one of the most captivating and rewarding is Polonnaruwa, the second oldest kingdom and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Polonnaruwa is a place where you can travel back in time and witness the glory and splendor of a bygone era, as well as enjoy the present-day charm and hospitality of the people and the environment. Polonnaruwa is a place where you can discover the rich and varied heritage of Sri Lanka, as well as experience the vibrant and dynamic life of the country. Polonnaruwa is a place where you can find inspiration and enlightenment, as well as fun and adventure. Polonnaruwa is a place where you can have an unforgettable journey.

Polonnaruwa is located in the north-central province of Sri Lanka, about 230 km from Colombo, the capital and largest city of the country. It is easily accessible by road, rail, or air, and has a range of accommodation options to suit your budget and preferences. Polonnaruwa is a city that combines the old and the new, the rural and the urban, the sacred and the secular. It is a city that offers something for everyone, whether you are a history buff, a nature lover, a culture enthusiast, or a thrill seeker. Polonnaruwa is a city that will surprise and delight you with its diversity and beauty.

The main attraction of Polonnaruwa is the ancient city, which covers an area of about 6 km by 4 km and is surrounded by a moat and a wall. The ancient city is divided into several sections, each with its character and function. The Royal Palace complex, located in the south, was the residence and administrative center of the kings. It consists of a seven-story palace, a council chamber, a bathing pool, and several other buildings. The palace was once a splendid structure, but only the massive walls and the foundations remain today. The Audience Hall, adjacent to the palace, is a rectangular hall with stone pillars and carvings of lions, elephants, and dwarfs. It was used for royal ceremonies and meetings. The Quadrangle, located in the city's center, is a compact group of religious buildings, enclosed by a low wall. It contains some of the most remarkable monuments of Polonnaruwa, such as the Vatadage, a circular relic house with four Buddha statues and a stone roof; the Hatadage, a similar structure that housed the sacred tooth relic of the Buddha; the Atadage, the oldest temple in the city; the Nissanka Lata Mandapaya, a unique pavilion with stone lotus pillars; and the Gal Pota, a massive stone slab inscribed with the deeds of King Nissanka Malla. The Shiva Devale, located in the north, is the oldest Hindu temple in the city, dedicated to the god Shiva. It is a simple stone building with a pyramidal roof and a lingam inside. The Lankatilaka, located in the west, is a massive brick temple with a towering façade and a vaulted interior. It contains a 14-meter-high standing Buddha statue and a smaller seated one. The Thuparama, located in the east, is a brick image house with a wooden roof and a reclining Buddha statue inside.

The ancient city of Polonnaruwa was the capital of Sri Lanka from the 11th to the 13th century, after the destruction of Anuradhapura, the first capital, by the Chola invaders from South India. Polonnaruwa reached its zenith under the rule of King Parakramabahu I, who reigned from 1153 to 1186. He was a great ruler, warrior, builder, and patron of Buddhism. He unified the country, expanded the territory, defeated the invaders, and established diplomatic relations with other countries. He also built a magnificent garden city with palaces, temples, statues, and irrigation systems. He was responsible for the creation of the Parakrama Samudra, the largest man-made reservoir in Sri Lanka, which still provides water for the region. He also supported the revival and reform of Buddhism and sponsored the compilation of the Pali Canon, the sacred scriptures of Theravada Buddhism. He was known as the “Great King” and the “Hero of Polonnaruwa”.

The ancient city of Polonnaruwa is a treasure trove of art and architecture, reflecting the influence of various cultures and religions. It showcases the finest examples of Sinhalese art and architecture, which reached its peak during the Polonnaruwa period. The Sinhalese style is characterized by the use of stone and brick, the emphasis on symmetry and proportion, the incorporation of natural elements, and the expression of religious devotion. The most outstanding example of Sinhalese sculpture is the Gal Vihara, also known as the Rock Temple, which is a masterpiece of rock carving and one of the highlights of Polonnaruwa. It was created in the 12th century by King Parakramabahu I, who commissioned his chief architect and minister, Anuruddha, to carve four colossal Buddha images out of a single granite rock. The Gal Vihara consists of four Buddha images in different postures and expressions, representing different aspects of the Buddha’s life and teachings. The images are as follows:

• The seated Buddha: This is the largest image of the Gal Vihara, measuring 15 feet in height and 46 feet in width. It depicts the Buddha in the dhyana mudra, or the meditation posture, with his legs crossed and his hands resting on his lap. The image is carved in a niche, with a decorated arch and a lotus pedestal. The image is believed to represent the Buddha attaining enlightenment under the Bodhi tree.
• The standing Buddha: This is the second largest image of the Gal Vihara, measuring 22 feet in height and 15 feet in width. It depicts the Buddha in the abhaya mudra, or the gesture of fearlessness, with his right hand raised and his left hand hanging down. The image is carved in a shallow recess, with a plain background and a simple pedestal. The image is believed to represent the Buddha preaching his first sermon at Sarnath.
• The reclining Buddha: This is the third largest image of the Gal Vihara, measuring 46 feet in length and 15 feet in height. It depicts the Buddha in the parinirvana posture, or the lying down posture, with his head resting on his right hand and his left hand along his body. The image is carved in a low relief, with a pillow and a couch. The image is believed to represent the Buddha passing away at Kusinara.
• The smaller seated Buddha: This is the smallest image of the Gal Vihara, measuring 4 feet in height and 3 feet in width. It depicts the Buddha in the vitarka mudra, or the gesture of reasoning, with his right hand raised and his left hand holding his robe. The image is carved in a small niche, with a lotus pedestal and a halo. The image is believed to represent the Buddha expounding the Dhamma, or the doctrine.

The Gal Vihara is a remarkable example of the skill and devotion of the ancient Sri Lankan artists, who managed to create lifelike and expressive images of the Buddha out of a hard and unyielding material. The Gal Vihara is also a place of worship and reverence for Buddhists, who come to pay homage and seek blessings from the Buddha. The Gal Vihara is a must-see attraction for anyone who visits Polonnaruwa, as it offers a glimpse into the spiritual and artistic heritage of Sri Lanka.

The ancient city of Polonnaruwa also reflects the influence of other cultures and religions, such as Hinduism, Islam, and Christianity, which coexisted with Buddhism in Sri Lanka. The Shiva Devale, the oldest Hindu temple in the city, is an example of the Chola style of architecture, which was brought by the invaders from South India. The temple is dedicated to the god Shiva, one of the main deities of Hinduism, and has a lingam, a symbol of Shiva, inside. The temple is also decorated with sculptures of Hindu gods and goddesses, such as Ganesha, Vishnu, and Lakshmi. The Shiva Devale is a place of worship and respect for Hindus, who come to offer prayers and offerings to Shiva. The Shiva Devale is also a place of interest for anyone who wants to learn more about the Hindu culture and religion in Sri Lanka.

The Polonnaruwa Museum is the main museum of the city, and a must-visit for anyone who wants to learn more about the history and culture of Polonnaruwa and Sri Lanka. The museum is located near the entrance of the ancient city, and is housed in a modern building that blends with the natural surroundings. The museum was established in 1963, and has been renovated and expanded several times since then. The museum has a collection of over 6000 artifacts, ranging from prehistoric times to the colonial period.

The ancient city and the museum are not the only attractions of Polonnaruwa. There are many other places and activities that you can explore and experience in and around Polonnaruwa, depending on your interests and preferences. Here are some suggestions for you:

• The Parakrama Samudra: This is the largest man-made reservoir in Sri Lanka, and a marvel of engineering and vision. It covers an area of about 25 square km and holds about 134 million cubic meters of water. It was built by King Parakramabahu I in the 12th century, by combining several smaller tanks and by constructing a 14 km long dam across the Amban Ganga river. The Parakrama Samudra has three main sections: the Topa Wewa, the Eramudu Wewa, and the Dumbutulu Wewa, each with its sluices and channels. The Parakrama Samudra serves multiple purposes for Polonnaruwa and the surrounding region. It provides water for drinking, agriculture, fisheries, and wildlife. It also regulates the water level and prevents flooding during the rainy season. It also enhances the scenic beauty and biodiversity of the area, attracting many birds, animals, and plants. The Parakrama Samudra is a vital source of life and prosperity for the people of Polonnaruwa, who depend on it for their livelihood and well-being. You can visit the Parakrama Samudra to enjoy the views of the water and the landscape, observe the wildlife and the flora, take a boat ride or a fishing trip, or have a picnic or a barbecue. You can also visit the tombs of the Muslim saints, who are buried near the Parakrama Samudra, and who are revered by the Muslims. You can also visit the ruins of the Alahana Pirivena, a Buddhist monastery that was converted into a church by the Portuguese, and later destroyed by the Dutch. You can also visit the statue of King Parakramabahu I, who stands near the Parakrama Samudra, and who is honored by the Sri Lankans for his achievements and legacy.
• The Minneriya National Park: This is a national park that covers an area of about 89 square km and is located about 10 km from Polonnaruwa. It was declared a national park in 1997, and is home to a variety of wildlife, such as elephants, leopards, deer, monkeys, crocodiles, and birds. The park is also known for its ancient irrigation tank, the Minneriya Tank, which was built by King Mahasena in the 3rd century, and is still used by the farmers and the animals. The park is also known for its seasonal phenomenon, the Minneriya Elephant Gathering, which is the largest gathering of wild Asian elephants in the world. The gathering occurs between July and October, when hundreds of elephants migrate to the Minneriya Tank to drink, bathe, and socialize. The gathering is a spectacular sight and a unique opportunity to observe the behavior and the interaction of the elephants. You can visit the Minneriya National Park to see the wildlife and nature, take a jeep safari or a guided walk, or watch the elephant gathering. You can also visit the nearby Kaudulla National Park, which is another wildlife sanctuary and a part of the elephant corridor. You can also visit the nearby Somawathiya National Park, which is a sacred site for Buddhists, as it contains the Somawathiya Stupa, which is believed to house a relic of the Buddha. [fm]
• The Medirigiriya Vatadage: This is an ancient Buddhist monument that is located about 20 km from Polonnaruwa. It is a circular relic house that dates back to the 7th century, and is considered to be one of the best examples of the vatadage style of architecture in Sri Lanka. The vatadage is a unique and elegant structure that consists of four concentric terraces, each with a flight of steps and a guard stone at the cardinal points. The terraces are supported by stone pillars, and the innermost terrace has a circular brick wall with four entrances. The center of the vatadage has a small stupa, which is surrounded by four Buddha statues facing four directions. The vatadage is also decorated with carvings of lotus, swans, and dwarfs. The vatadage is a place of worship and reverence for Buddhists, who come to pay homage and offer flowers to the stupa and the Buddha statues. The vatadage is also a place of interest and admiration for anyone who appreciates the art and architecture of the ancient Sri Lankans. You can visit the Medirigiriya Vatadage to see the beauty and the craftsmanship of the vatadage, to learn more about the history and the significance of the vatadage, or to experience the peace and the tranquility of the vatadage. You can also visit the nearby Medirigiriya Archaeological Museum, which displays the artifacts and models related to the Medirigiriya Vatadage and the surrounding area. [fm]
• The Dimbulagala Raja Maha Vihara: This is an ancient Buddhist temple that is located about 16 km from Polonnaruwa. It is situated on a rocky hill about 534 meters high and offers panoramic views of the area. The temple is also known as the Gunners Quoin, as it resembles a gunner’s quoin, a device used to adjust the elevation of a cannon. The temple dates back to the 3rd century BCE, and is associated with the legend of King Dutugemunu, who is said to have trained his warriors at the hill. The temple has a long and turbulent history, as it was attacked and destroyed several times by the invaders and the rebels.

This is just a brief intro about a place with rich historical value. A must-visit place if you are planning on traveling to Sri Lanka. Stay tuned for more articles of this series...