The Return of "Anti-aging"

Earlier this year, Cult Capital brand investor Christine Holcomb discussed the beauty sectors attracting investor attention.

She noted, "Another interesting revival I am seeing in beauty is the idea of anti-aging. About four years ago, brands were coming under fire for using the term anti-aging, but now consumers from age 15 to 55 seem to be purchasing beauty products in pursuit of reversing the clock or preventing it from ticking. I think we will see this trend continue and clinical testing or expert endorsements will only become more important for brand success."

With the stigma of the term "antiaging" receding and the breadth of innovations addressing age-related concerns expanding, Global Cosmetic Industry took the opportunity to round up the latest trends shaping the sector.

Top-trending Ingredients

Vitamin C, Retinol & Bakuchiol

A March 2022 analysis by NPD’s Jennifer Famiano noted, "Clinical brands now account for 34% of skin care category sales in the [United States], while natural brands have stalled at 28%." This focus on efficacy has been a boon for SKUs containing hard-working anti-aging ingredients such as vitamin C and retinol. In fact, Famiano reported that "nearly 60% of women in the [United States] report that the inclusion of vitamin C is important, when making skin care purchase decisions," while "47% say the same about retinol."

Recently, Hey Discount analyzed the number of TikTok views, Instagram hashtags and Google searches related to key beauty terms and revealed that retinol topics generated 1.2 billion views on Tik Tok and more than nine million Google searches. (For contrast, niacinamide topics generated nearly 323 million views on Tik Tok, more than 362,000 Instagram hashtags and 6.4 million Google searches in the same period.) According to Spate data, the top concerns searched online alongside retinol are acne (34.3K), wrinkles (20.1K), aging (7.2K) and scarring (6.6K).

Biocogent’s Cogesome RL reportedly enhances retinol delivery from the skin’s surface to the delivery point in the epidermal and dermal layers. To demonstrate this claim, an independent study measured topical delivery of retinol into ex vivo human skin by a formulation containing Cogesome RL compared with a control formulation of retinol in caprylic capric triglycerides, a hydrophobic carrier that penetrates the stratum corneum.

After a 24-hour treatment, the active at various dosage levels (at 1%, 2%, 4% and 10%) increased retinol levels in the dermis compared with identical levels of retinol in the control formulation. There was also a reported 200% increase in retinol delivery to living layers of the skin at the highest concentration, with about a >150% increase on average.

Meanwhile, Mibelle Biochemistry has developed NovoRetin, a plant-based, stable and safe alternative to retinol. The active is based on mastic, which is an aromatic resin from the bark of a tree that grows on the Greek island of Chios.

NovoRetin can reportedly increase the amount of naturally occurring retinoic acid in the skin, leading to retinol-like effects without the need to apply retinoids topically on the skin. As an all-in-one product, it increases skin density and elasticity; reduces pore size and wrinkles; refines skin texture; and creates a smooth and matte finish.

As shown by NovoRetin, interest in retinol-like alternatives has grown in popularity, benefiting ingredients like bakuchiol.

Kumar Organic Products’ Kopuchiol (INCI: bakuchiol), for instance, derived from the leaves and seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, which is commonly used in Ayurveda, traditional Chinese medicine and the Siddha system. According to the company, this ingredient is a meroterpene that possesses antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.

Bakuchiol is said to be a gentler alternative to retinol with many of the same benefits—improving signs of photo-aging such as wrinkles and hyperpigmentation—but with better skin tolerance. Incorporated into a skin cream, the ingredient reportedly restores radiance and bounce in skin, firming and smoothing it while reducing the appearance of deep wrinkles.

Per Spate, there are 4,000 average monthly searches for bakuchiol serum each month in the United States. Searches have grown 24.5% since last year with two market leaders: Bybi Beauty and Herbivore Botanicals. Related searches include retinol, alternative (to retinol), smoothing, pads, review, Sephora and Ulta.

As highlighted in Spate’s analysis, Herbivore figures prominently in bakuchiol online searches. The brand’s Moon Fruit plant-based anti-aging serum features 1% bakuchiol isolate, plant-based peptides, and a blend of herbs and superfruits that contain vitamins C, E and B5, and amino and fatty acids. With consistent use, the serum is designed to firm skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles, dull skin, uneven tone and acne.

Yet, even for bakuchiol, there are alternatives to the alternatives, such as Chemyunion’s Iselight.

"When looking for solutions for skin lightening, the goal is usually to treat hyperpigmentation caused by the accumulation of melanin," says Mariana Yamamoto M. Guimarães, skin care products and marketing manager, Chemyunion. "However, the expected results from this treatment of age spots may not be as effective as desired, since there is another important pigment that causes these spots, known as aging pigment or lipofuscin. Lipofuscin has a yellow-ishbrown color and accumulates inside a variety of cells. Unlike melanin, produced exclusively in melanocyte cells, the accumulation of lipofuscin also occurs in other cells such as keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and can therefore be formed in deeper layers of the skin, like the dermis."

The executive continues, "The mechanism for the lipofuscin pigment reduction differs from the action on the phases of melanin synthesis (melanogenesis). In the reduction of lipofuscin, it is necessary to activate the natural process of cellular upcycling (autophagy and proteasome activity), two distinct but complementary cellular self-cleaning or recycling processes that eliminate ‘cellular waste,’ old organelles or dysfunctional proteins, promoting a better cell metabolism and the lightening of age spots."

Guimarães concludes, "To create awareness of the mechanism for age spot formation, Chemyunion developed Iselight. After intense research and an inspired selection of ingredients, Iselight acts on the root cause of the formation of age spots–promoting the homeostasis of the cellular detoxification system, autophagy and proteasome activity, capable of restoring the luminosity and homogeneity of the skin tone of the face and hands after 28 days of treatment. Iselight is a concentrated plant extract composed by Myrothamnus flabellifolia, a resurrection plant known in traditional African medicine, and Coffea arabica, an important source of antioxidants obtained from upcycling process."

Next-wave Hyaluronic Acid Innovation

HeyDiscount’s data shows that hyaluronic acid topics have generated 331.4 million Tik Tok views, 1.6 million Instagram hashtags and nearly 7 million Google searches in the last 12 months.

The ubiquitous ingredient has been the subject of recent formulation innovation. For instance, Givaudan Active Beauty’s Cristalhyal e-Perfection (INCI: bentonite (and) sodium hyaluronate) is a sustainable and patented vectorized complex of bentonite clay and high molecular weight (HMW) hyaluronic acid (HA). Crafted by white biotechnology and powered by a modification of the electrostatic charges at the HA molecule’s surface, the triple-action ingredient accesses the skin’s deep layers to provide well-aging benefits, long-lasting hydration and mattifying effects, per Givaudan. The technology reportedly provides long-lasting hydration for more than 24 hours in just one application. It is also said to decrease fine lines in the crow’s feet area by 27.3% after one month.

Amandine Scandolera, head of biological evaluation for Givaudan Active Beauty, said, "Cristalhyal e-Perfection is an exclusive combination of HA and bentonite clay, inspired from ionophoresis. Thanks to a patented and proprietary process, bentonite clay can be activated to efficiently entrap molecules of HMW HA in the interstitial space of specific lamellar structures. Hyaluronic acid molecules will thus benefit from an electrical attraction from the skin’s deep layers to a depth of 75 microns."

Givaudan demonstrated the technology in a concept formula, S3D Step Up, featuring Cristalhyal e-Perfection and Neoporyl. With repeated use, this non-tinted formulation can reportedly improve skin quality, texture and complexion while minimizing pores.

Meanwhile, DSM has launched three forms of hyaluronic acid in the new HYA-ACT range. Each form provides its own key benefits and reportedly delivers the efficacy customers need for skin care. HYAACT M has a medium molecular weight (MW 1.0-1.3 MDa), enhances skin hydration and strengthens the protective barrier. HYA-ACT S has a small molecular weight (MW 200-400 kDa) that locks in moisture for a hydration boost and calms reddened skin. Finally, HYA-ACT XS has a very small molecular weight (MW 37-56 kDa) and supplies a continuous burst of hydration and plumps out fine wrinkles. All three HYA-ACT forms are halal-certified, China-compliant and certified microbiome-friendly.

Improved Salicylic Acid Delivery

Similar to its Cogesome RL, Biocogent’s Cogesome SA liposome formulation encapsulates salicylic acid in a novel way that reportedly provides "superior" skin penetration and greater miscibility in formulations.

Calcium

Mibelle Biochemistry’s EpiCalsome (INCI: hydrogenated lecithin (and) calcium chloride (and) glycerin (and) pentylene glycol (and) water (aqua)) addresses the loss of the skin’s calcium gradient, which is a key driver of barrier disruption and skin aging. Replenishing the skin’s calcium stores may offer a way of combatting aging barrier dysfunction.

EpiCalsome encapsulates calcium ions with phospholipids, which reportedly makes calcium optimally bioavailable to the skin. Key benefits of EpiCalsome include faster skin recovery, fortification of delicate skin, and prevention of skin dryness and irritation.

Menopause Revolution

When menopausal beauty brand Womaness entered select Ulta Beauty stores and online as part of The Wellness Shop, the move appeared to ratify the recent ramp up in menopause-focused brands. The move ratifies the growing menopausal care movement, which has generated new ingredient and brand innovation.

Womaness will offer seven products at Ulta, including Me.No.Pause. Menopause Relief Supplement, Let Me Sleep Supplement, Active Glow Supplement, The Works Smoothing All-Over Body Cream, Let’s Neck Neck and Décolleté Serum, Coco Bliss Vaginal & All-Over Moisturizer, and Fountain of Glow Vitamin C Facial Serum. Each product retails for less than $40.

Womaness was co-founded in 2021 by Sally Mueller and Michelle Jacobs, who designed the brand to address the more than 50 million women approaching or in menopause, which can cause issues such as hot flashes, sleep issues, light leakage and fine lines.

"Our mission from day one has been to change the conversation around menopause and the women experiencing it," said Jacobs. "We want to be the first brand women think of when they think of menopause, offering them a collection of innovative products that address the most common (and often taboo) symptoms."

"We’re thrilled to be offering Womaness solutions to the Ulta Beauty guest," said Mueller. "We’re here to make it easier for women in menopause to shop in the places they love to find the products they need to feel unstoppable. It’s a powerful moment that Ulta Beauty has recognized that women in this stage deserve to take up more space both in life and on shelves at retail."

Other companies are betting on the menopausal beauty space. For instance, Amyris recently completed its acquisitions of MenoLabs, a sciencebacked menopause-focused women’s wellness brand. The company is also set to launch Stripes, a menopause brand developed in partnership with Naomi Watts, in the third quarter of this year.

Meanwhile, Bonafide has launched Silvessa, a three-step system designed to improve the health and appearance of hair and skin impacted by menopause. The daily routine includes a capsule, hair serum and skin serum that are formulated to restore collagen and nutrients depleted by declining estrogen levels.

The Nourishing Daily Capsule contains biotin that is reportedly 300% more potent and silicon and 1.2x better absorbed than conventional varieties, as well as the antioxidant phycocyanin. The Strengthening Hair Serum also contains silicon and biotin and is said to visibly increase hair volume, thickness and growth while boosting shine and strength. Finally, the Hydrating Skin Serum comprises hyaluronic acid and vitamins to provide deep hydration that visibly reduces fine lines and wrinkles.

In a three-month open-label trial of the Silvessa system cited by Bonafide, 92% of respondents saw an increase in overall hair volume and 82% saw an increase in hair thickness. Additionally, 83% of respondents were more satisfied with how healthy their skin looked and 75% reported improvement in skin smoothness.

Silvessa is available exclusively at hellobonafide.com. It costs $165 for a one-time purchase or can be purchased via one month or three-month subscription, costing $97.50 per month and $87.75 per month, respectively.

Elsewhere, Hologram Sciences, launched by DSM in April 2021 with $100 million in backing, has launched Phenology, a beauty and wellness brand designed to address the physical, mental, and emotional impacts of menopause. The brand features beauty products, at-home hormone testing and tracking, on-demand in-app coaching, and nutritional supplements. The brand is led by general manager Jess Graham and chief medical adviser and OB/GYN, Kourtney Sims, MD.

Phenology’s Morning and Evening Gummy Duo with optional Sleep or Beauty Boosters ($80 one-time/$72 subscription + $5 per boost) features saffron extract and genistein and designed to addressing hot flashes, sleep disruptions, mood changes, loss of energy, and dry skin. The Lucid Lift Refreshing Mints ($19/$17 subscription) are formulated with vitamins B6 and B12, L-theanine and caffeine to help combat brain fog.

Phenology’s Cool Mist ($19/$17 subscription) addresses hot flashes and night sweats and features a proprietary blend of Takasago’s Coolact 10, the DSM hyaluronic acid HYA-ACT and DSM’s collagen-protecting BEL-EVEN. The brand’s Fresh Start Skin Roller ($19/$17 subscription) combats hot flashes and night sweats and contains BEL-EVEN, HYA-ACT and Coolact 10. Finally, the Daily Glow Facial Cream ($69/$62 subscription) is a whipped cream that features squalane, HYAACT, BEL-EVEN and DSM’s Pentavitin.

Future offerings will include noninvasive at-home hormone testing using Minilab from Berlin-based Inne. The system captures daily saliva samples and records real-time measurements of progesterone in less than 30 minutes.

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