The strategy behind Phoebe Philo and Bergdorf Goodman
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Yesterday it was announced that Phoebe Philo is headed to Bergdorf’s. In a surprise move, over 100 pieces from the first and second collections, or ‘edits’, of Philo’s eponymous label will be sold at Bergdorf Goodman’s Fifth Avenue, Manhattan location from 11 April. A second delivery will follow in May.
Here, Vogue Business explores why it matters.
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In a recent interview with The New York Times, Philo said that by summer, she wanted to open “some sort” of physical space — first in New York, then London. Many took this to mean standalone, brand-owned stores.
Those may well be on their way, but first, she’s veering down the wholesale route. It’s a strategic move, says Kayla Marci, senior fashion and retail analyst at Edited, in that an iconic department store like Bergdorf’s can lend its level of prestige before Philo transitions to an independent brick-and-mortar venue. Jessica Quillin, luxury strategist and co-founder of brand strategy agency It’s A Working Title, agrees.
Philo venturing into wholesale comes at a time when the model is seemingly imploding. Is this the designer’s endorsement of the wholesale model at this fractious time?
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It’s also a signifier that despite Philo’s near-untouchable status — thanks to successful stints at Celine and Chloé — the direct-to-consumer online-drop strategy may be too high risk on its own.
The move isn’t necessarily a nod to wholesale over DTC drops. But it is an indicator of the need to be cautious in a still-unsteady retail environment.
Find out more here.
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Fashion, Beauty, and Lifestyle Writer
8moI think it's a smart move. DTC has its benefits, but it's not the magical retail solution for everything.
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8moWhich woman will you want to represent with these dresses ?
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8moVery clever.
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8moWith the best compliments Made in Europe