Sustainable Future of Fashion: Navigating the Greenhouse Challenge with Sustainable Solutions

Sustainable Future of Fashion: Navigating the Greenhouse Challenge with Sustainable Solutions

The Changing Landscape: Why Sustainability Matters in Fashion

The global fashion industry is a multi-trillion-dollar industry, producing over 100 billion garments annually. Given its size and nature, the industry faces several social and environmental challenges. The key environmental challenges are complex and interrelated, but most broadly fall under: land use, water use, chemical use, biodiversity loss, and greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions. This article focuses on the latter - GHG emissions

The carbon footprint of the fashion industry is globally significant, as evidenced by a growing number of studies, most recently by the World Resource Institute (WRI) and Aii (2021). The report estimated that the industry’s share comprises 2% (1.025 gigatons CO2eq) of annual greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, with most impact taking place in the raw material and processing steps of the supply chain.

From a consumer standpoint, sustainability matters because it empowers individuals to make responsible choices, supporting eco-friendly practices and ethical production while enjoying products with a lower environmental footprint, aligning with their values, and reducing their impact on the planet. Modern consumers are increasingly becoming conscious of the environmental and ethical implications of their purchases. Brands that prioritize sustainability often attract and retain a growing segment of eco-conscious consumers. Sustainability initiatives enhance a brand's reputation by demonstrating a commitment to responsible practices and values. This can foster trust and loyalty among consumers.

Therefore, Sustainability matters in the fashion industry not only for its positive impact on the planet and society but also because it aligns with consumer preferences, regulatory requirements, and the industry's future sustainability.

Industry Challenges: Navigating the Fashion Industry Sustainability Challenges

The apparel value chain is a complex process involving the design, sourcing, manufacturing, and distribution of clothing. It begins with product conception, where designers create clothing concepts. Tier 4 consists of the extraction of raw materials from earth, plants, or animals, followed by Tier 3, where raw materials get processed into intermediate products like yarn. Tier 2 consists of the production and finishing of materials that go directly into finished products. Tier 1 focuses on finished product assembly. Finally, tier 0 covers the retail stage (office spaces and stores), where consumers purchase clothing.

Apparel & Footwear Value Chain

To illustrate the scale of the fashion industry and the complexity of the apparel value chain, individual brands and retailers can have hundreds of suppliers, for example:

  • As of April 2020, Puma had 123 core tier 1 and 2 suppliers and hundreds of more non-core suppliers around the world.
  • As of March 2019, Levi Strauss & Co. sources from hundreds of factories and dozens of mills globally.

Now, To understand how companies measure their carbon footprint, GHG emissions have been divided - in line with the Greenhouse Gas Protocol’s Corporate Accounting and Reporting Standard, across three scopes:

  1. Scope 1 (Direct emissions): Emissions from the company’s owned or controlled facilities.
  2. Scope 2 (Indirect emissions): Emissions from the generation of purchased energy, heat, steam, or cooling.
  3. Scope 3 (Indirect value chain emissions): Emissions occur in the value chain of the company from the cradle-to-grave lifecycle of a product.

According to the study by WRI & Aii (2021), 96% of the GHG emissions stem from scope 3 across the brands with approved science-based targets (SBTs). In the realm of corporate sustainability, calculating Scope 1 and 2 emissions is generally considered more straightforward for companies than Scope 3 emissions. Scope 3 involves intricate calculations of indirect emissions from the entire value chain, making it a more complex challenge. These emissions extend beyond the organization's direct control, encompassing a broad spectrum of activities throughout the supply chain, product life cycle, and customer use. Gathering comprehensive and accurate data from suppliers, consumers, and other stakeholders is complex. Additionally, it demands collaboration and transparency across industries, making it a formidable task in the pursuit of sustainable corporate practices.

Apart from data collection, companies face challenges in sourcing sustainable materials, reducing energy-intensive manufacturing of fabrics, and reducing the landfill wastage of apparel products.

Sustainable Steps: Fashion Retailers' Carbon Reduction Guide

The journey to achieve a net-zero carbon footprint by fashion retailers requires them to eliminate carbon emissions at each stage of their supply chain from raw material extraction to finished product assembly to end-of-life use of products. To guide businesses on this transformative journey, they can follow a six-step framework designed to facilitate a holistic approach to carbon emissions reduction.

  1. Baselining: Establishing a baseline involves determining an organization's current level of carbon emissions. Set and approve 'Science Based Targets' - carbon reduction goals that align with climate science to limit global warming, helping companies reduce emissions in line with climate goals.
  2. Value Chain Assessment: In-depth analysis and detailed assessment of data, processes, and practices to identify opportunities for improvement and informed decision-making.
  3. Governance: Develop sustainability strategies, define roles and responsibilities, and embed carbon emissions in the decision-making process.
  4. Tools: Implementation of data collection mechanism to measure and track the GHG emissions data automatically. Examples of such tools include carbon accounting software, supply chain mapping tools, and sustainability reporting platforms.
  5. Supply Chain Collaboration: Engage with the suppliers to assess and improve their sustainability performance. Encourage the suppliers to adopt sustainable sourcing practices, reduce emissions in transportation and production, and promote ethical labor practices.
  6. Carbon Emission Removal: Establish criteria for selecting projects aimed at carbon removal and forge partnerships with these projects to effectively eliminate carbon emissions.

Here are possible solutions companies can adopt to reduce emissions in each category:

Scope 1

  1. Alternative Fuel Source: Replace fossil fuels with cleaner alternatives, such as natural gas or biofuels, in heating and cooling systems. A textile manufacturing plant powered by renewable energy can reduce its CO2 emissions by up to 80% compared to one relying on fossil fuels.
  2. CO2-based refrigeration: Switching to CO2-based refrigeration in office spaces, stores, and manufacturing units. CO2 refrigeration systems are more energy-efficient, reducing electricity consumption by up to 10-15% compared to HFC-based systems
  3. Electrification of vehicles: Invest in electric or hybrid vehicles and optimize routes and maintenance to reduce emissions from company vehicles. Electric vehicles (EVs) produce zero tailpipe emissions, whereas ICE vehicles emit CO2, NOx, and other pollutants. On average, a gasoline-powered car emits about 2.3 kg of CO2 per liter of gasoline burned.

Scope 2

  1. Shift to renewable electricity: Transition to renewable energy sources such as solar or wind power for on-site energy generation. According to the U.S. EPA, every 1 MWh of electricity generated from renewable sources can reduce CO2 emissions by approximately 0.5 metric tons compared to electricity generated from fossil fuels.
  2. Maximize Energy Efficiency: Improve the energy efficiency of operations and equipment to reduce on-site emissions from sources like boilers, furnaces, and vehicles. According to the International Energy Agency (IEA), improving energy efficiency could deliver over 40% of the necessary greenhouse gas emissions reductions to meet climate goals, including Scope 2 emissions.

Scope 3

  1. Scale sustainable materials and processes: Sustainable materials, like recycled aluminum, often have up to 95% lower energy use and emissions than traditional counterparts.
  2. Coal phase-out in manufacturing: Coal can significantly reduce Scope 3 emissions. For example, replacing coal-fired electricity with renewables can cut emissions by over 90%.
  3. Accelerate next-gen materials: Next-gen materials can lower Scope 3 emissions substantially. For instance, advanced lightweight materials can reduce transportation-related emissions by up to 30%.
  4. Supplier Assessment: Encourage suppliers to enroll in energy efficiency programs and shift to sustainable practices.

It's important to note that these solutions are not comprehensive and the specific solutions will vary depending on the industry, organization size, and location. Reducing emissions often requires a combination of strategies, including setting emission reduction targets, investing in technology, engaging stakeholders, and continually monitoring and reporting progress.

Best Practices: Success stories in sustainable fashion retail

Eileen Fisher: Founded in 1984, Eileen Fisher is an eco-friendly luxury women's clothing brand. Every aspect of the business from raw materials extraction to manufacturing to end-of-life treatments of garments is built to operate as eco-friendly as possible. The company has been involved in supporting sheep farms, adopting regenerative grazing practices to improve biodiversity and soil health so that land absorbs more carbon from the atmosphere. Their Renew Take-back program has collected back 2Mn sold products to resell, donate, or remake into new designs. The program has managed to save an average of 2.91 kg of CO2e and reduced an average of 0.64 lbs of landfill waste per item.

H&M: H&M has made significant strides in sustainability. They aim to become climate-positive by 2030 and use 100% sustainable or recycled materials by 2030. They've already achieved 97% sustainable cotton usage and operate their garment collection program, recycling over 171,000 tons of clothing. H&M also launched conscious collections, emphasizing sustainable and ethical fashion.

Patagonia: Patagonia is an American company that produces outdoor clothing. The brand has used 87% recycled in its most recent clothing line, and all cotton used is 100% organically grown. Patagonia not only uses sustainable materials in its outerwear, but it also helps customers repair their clothing instead of buying new items. More than 64000 workers are part of Patagonia’s Fair-Trade program. Patagonia is not a part of the fast fashion industry; they create timeless designs and long-lasting products.

Conclusion: Pioneering the New Era in Fashion Retail

The rise of sustainable fashion is a positive trend that indicates a greater understanding of the fashion industry's environmental and social implications. We can lower our carbon footprint, support ethical and fair labor practices, and promote a healthy planet by choosing sustainable clothes. As consumers grow more aware of the environmental and social consequences of their purchases, the emphasis on sustainability and ethical business practices is anticipated to become even more prominent.

The secret to success in this innovative era of fashion retail will be collaboration, creative thinking, and adaptation. The best-positioned retailers to prosper in this exciting and disruptive period will be those who can harness the power of technology while maintaining the integrity of their brand identity and values.

 

Sources:

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Vinit Dodia

MT @Mondelēz International | IIMB '23

1y

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