Where The Goats Roam Free

As I reflect on my trip to Mauritania, I realize how much of an adventure it has truly been, filled with heartwarming moments and incredible people. It all began with a long journey from Uganda—first to Dakar, Senegal, and then on to Nouakchott. When I finally landed in Mauritania, I was exhausted but excited for what lay ahead. After a quick rest at my hotel, I was whisked away for a series of meetings with the team at Counterpart. The hustle of that first day made me wonder what the rest of the trip would hold.

The next day, we left the city for Brakna region, driving through desert plains and rolling hills of sand dunes. The landscape was stunning and so foreign to me. As someone from the ever-green Uganda, where lush vegetation is everywhere, the sights and sounds of Mauritania felt like stepping into the pages of a novel. Distant camels moved gracefully across the horizon, and the vast, sandy expanse seemed to stretch forever. It was a mesmerizing, almost surreal experience, and I found myself lost in the beauty of the desert.

Little did I know that the warmth of the people would be even more striking than the landscapes. From the very first community meeting at a school in Brakna, I was blown away by the kindness of the people. The Parent-Teacher Association (PTA) and community members not only hosted us but also shared a hearty lunch in one of the nearby homes. They made us feel like part of the family. Despite having little, they were eager to give, welcoming us with open hearts. I was deeply moved when they presented me with a traditional outfit—a beautiful gift of fabric—and even helped me put it on. That first day in the field, I already knew I had come to a very special place.

The second day took us even deeper into the country, this time to the Gorgol region, near the Senegal River. One of my colleagues, Adama, invited us to visit his village, Bagodine, a chance I jumped at. I was excited to see life beyond the cities and hotels, to witness the culture firsthand. As we drove through the countryside, I was mesmerized by the sight of goats, sheep, cows, and horses roaming freely, grazing as they pleased. It was like stepping into a peaceful, timeless world.

When we finally arrived at Adama’s family home in Bagodine, I was warmly welcomed by his relatives, including his uncles, who greeted me kindly and made me feel at ease, despite cultural and language differences. It was a beautiful experience, especially considering my initial concerns about visiting a religious Muslim home as a woman. I needn’t have worried—the warmth and hospitality I received dispelled any anxieties. That evening, I spent time with Adama’s tall, graceful aunt on the rooftop of their house. Although we didn’t share a common language, we communicated through smiles, gestures, and the help of a translator. Sitting there under the moonlit sky, surrounded by the tranquility of the village, I couldn’t help but feel as though I had stepped into a scene from a fairytale. The serenity was magical.

Soon, we were called to dinner at the family’s main home, a short drive away. Upon arrival, I was greeted by more of Adama’s extended family—more aunts, uncles, and cousins, all eager to meet me and hear about my life in East Africa. The warmth and curiosity they showed made me feel incredibly special. We sat around on the veranda, talking and laughing as the cool evening breeze swept in.

Dinner was a grand affair, with large platters of roast lamb and French fries placed before us. Traditionally, men and women eat separately, but to make sure I was comfortable, the family arranged for me to sit with Adama and one of his aunts, allowing me to fully partake in the experience while having my friend nearby to guide me through everything. The food was delicious, but even more delightful was the chance to connect with this wonderful family and learn about their Fulani culture.

After the meal, it was time for tea—an elaborate ritual of brewing mint tea mixed with herbs and sugar. We sipped the sweet tea, and I couldn’t help but marvel at how such simple acts of sharing a meal and tea could create such deep connections. Before heading back to the house, we made one last stop at another aunt’s home, where I was again embraced with warmth and kindness. As I drifted off to sleep that night, I felt deeply moved by the generosity and love I had experienced in Bagodine. I hadn’t known a single soul when I arrived in Mauritania, yet here I was, feeling completely at home. The people of this land, where goats and sheep roam free, had opened their hearts to me, and I felt truly blessed.

On the drive back to Nouakchott, I couldn’t stop thinking about how much this trip had taught me. Yes, I had come here for work, to see the amazing things Counterpart was doing, but what I would carry with me forever was the love and generosity of the people I met. Every encounter left a mark. While buying souvenirs, every shop owner added a little gift as they packed up my collection of fabrics, craft jewelry, and, of course, my standard collectables—the fridge magnets! Their generosity surpassed anything I had experienced before.

As I prepare to head out to my next mission, I am filled with gratitude and cannot wait to come back to this beautiful country. Apart from the excitement of having accomplished my work mission and learned so much about the great work Counterpart is doing here, it’s the smiles and beautiful spirits of the people that have truly left a mark. I never imagined that the country I once only thought of as a desert would stir such deep feelings in me—hope, admiration, and a profound sense of gratitude for the opportunities I’ve had to witness its beauty and support its further development.

Mauritania has touched my soul, not just as a place of beautiful landscapes and free-roaming animals, but as a land filled with the most generous and warm-spirited people. I will always remember it as a place where love flows as freely as the goats roam.