International Journal of Cosmetic Science

ORIGINAL ARTICLE Full Access Thermoporometry measurements of human hair via differential scanning calorimetry Taichi Habe, Shigeto Inoue, Steven Breakspear, Bernd Noecker, Crisan Popescu Hair fibres possess an inherently porous structure, which is affected by physical and chemical agents from the environment, as well as those from cosmetic treatments. The present work aims to investigate the potential of a calorimetric method for evaluating the changes of hair porosity, in terms of pore size and size distribution. https://lnkd.in/ebwzvewk

ORIGINAL ARTICLE Full Access Application of the upcycling trend using ultrafiltrate of water from the production of collagen from fish skin in hair care cosmetics Joanna Igielska-Kalwat, Ewa Kilian-Pięta, Maciej Siedlecki The aim of the research problem of the article was to try to popularize the upcycling trend in the production of sustainable cosmetics and to confirm their effectiveness. The development of recycled raw materials is a new discovery in the chemical industry. Manufacturers emphasize the production of more environmentally friendly raw materials. Conscious consumers choose cosmetics whose production is based on sustainable development. Instead of throwing away waste from various industries, let us use it to produce active substances used in hair cosmetics. The production of the collagen series was created in accordance with the principles of upcycling, which involves obtaining collagen water, which is waste generated during the production of supplements. The main goal of the work was to learn cosmetic recipes for styling, washing and conditioning hair based on collagen waste, as well as to compare the results of people using the product in question. The aim of the study was also to demonstrate the effectiveness of the treatment in preventing split ends and hair breakage, usually caused by mechanical stress (brushing), as well as to confirm the effectiveness of other tests. The article presents procedures and parameters confirming the effectiveness of treatment with the tested hair products. The following tests were carried out: hair thickness and density, colour uniformity, shine factor and scalp hydration. All parameters numerically confirmed the beneficial effects of products containing collagen water used in hair care. https://lnkd.in/eJSnwMXc

ORIGINAL ARTICLE Full Access The effect of degeneration of elastic fibres on loss of elasticity and wrinkle formation Shinya Kondo, Naoko Ozawa, Tetsuhito Sakurai Skin elasticity, which is vital for a youthful appearance, depends on the elastic fibres in the dermis. However, these fibres deteriorate with ageing, resulting in wrinkles and sagging. Changes that occur in the elastic fibres in living human skin and the relationship between elastic fibres and the state of the skin surface remain unclear. Therefore, it is necessary to verify the relationship between elastic fibres and skin elasticity. In this study, we investigated the association of the elastic fibre structure with skin elasticity and stratum corneum protein content in living human skin. https://lnkd.in/eM7kpsjz

ORIGINAL ARTICLE Full Access Anti-ageing mechanism of topical bioactive ingredient composition on skin based on network pharmacology Wang Feifei, Su Wenrou, Sun Jinyue, Du Qiaochu, Li Jingjing, Liu Jin, Li Junxiang, Li Xuhui, Lin Xiao, He Congfen To elucidate the anti-ageing mechanism of the combination of eight ingredients on the skin from a multidimensional view of the skin. https://lnkd.in/eQg_HSxA

ORIGINAL ARTICLE The prebiotic effects of fructooligosaccharides enhance the growth characteristics of Staphylococcus epidermidis and enhance the inhibition of Staphylococcus aureus biofilm formation Li Shao, Tao Li, Suzhen Yang, Laiji Ma, Banruo Cai, Qingwen Jia, Hong Jiang, Tianming Bai, Yan Li Oligosaccharides have been shown to enhance the production of short chain fatty acids (SCFAs) by gut probiotics and regulate gut microbiota, to improve intestinal health. Recent research indicates that oligosaccharides may also positively impact skin microbiota by selectively promoting the growth of skin commensal bacteria and inhibiting pathogenic bacteria. However, the specific metabolic and regulatory mechanisms of skin commensal bacteria in response to oligosaccharides remain unclear. This study aims to explore the influence of four oligosaccharides on the growth and metabolism of Staphylococcus epidermidis and further identify skin prebiotics that can enhance its probiotic effects on the skin. https://lnkd.in/eWDM5Pgt

EVIEW ARTICLE Open Access A review of artificial sebum formulations, their compositions, uses and physicochemical characteristics Nicole Rosik, Jon A. Preece, Peter J. Fryer, Ian McRobbie, Zhenyu J. Zhang Sebum is a complex mixture of skin lipids responsible for lubrication, moisture retention and skin protection from external factors such as bacteria and fungi. The physicochemical properties of natural sebum are not well understood and are not easily accessible. Artificial sebum is widely used for sebum-related research such as dermal bioaccessibility, fingerprint production, dermatology, removal and sebum studies. It was found that the composition of artificial sebum affects the bioaccessibility of metals and drugs as well as the growth of some strains of bacteria. Squalene present in sebum was also found to be responsible for creating yellow stains on fabrics, whereas an increased concentration of fatty acids and triglycerides can lead to higher malodour of fabrics. Moreover, sebum and artificial sebum are poorly characterized with only 20 of 81 formulations characterized by certain techniques such as differential scanning calorimetry, nuclear magnetic resonance and thin-layer chromatography. This article reviews the artificial sebum formulations reported in the open literature between 1965 and 2023. We have discussed the compositions, uses and characterization techniques of artificial sebum used in the previous work and compared their properties to those of human sebum. A total of 81 artificial sebum formulations were found across the literature with 17 new formulations identified. The artificial sebum composition varies greatly between publications and there is no consistent formulation. There is a wide range of chemicals that are used as the main components of artificial sebum. We have highlighted the effect of chemical composition and individual compounds on the overall properties of the artificial sebum reported, and recommend that there is a great potential for creating personalized cosmetics and home care products once the characteristics of sebum are better understood. https://lnkd.in/esPU5xpF

ORIGINAL ARTICLE Grading facial aging: Comparing the clinical assessments made by three dermatologists with those obtained by an AI-based scoring system that analyses selfie pictures. A focus on Chinese subjects of both genders Wenna Wang, Frederic Flament, Hequn Wang, Chengda Ye, Ruowei Jiang, Jeff Houghton, Wei Liu The objective of this study is to assess the correspondence, in live conditions, between clinical gradings of facial aging signs by three dermatologists and those afforded by an automatic AI-based algorithm that analyses smartphones' selfie images of Chinese subjects. https://lnkd.in/gjMhAD27

ORIGINAL ARTICLE Open Access Regulation of dermal circadian pathways by a novel topical formulation Charlene DeHaven, Stephanie Wheeler, Anna Langerveld, C. Bryan Johns Skin health is impacted by a wide range of intrinsic and extrinsic factors (J Dermatol Sci, 2017, 85, 152), including those that impact circadian rhythm, such as sleep disruption (Textbook of Aging Skin, 2016), UV (Biomed Aging Pathol, 2013, 3, 161) and blue light (Int J Cosmet Sci, 2019, 41, 558). Disruption of the skin's endogenous circadian balance, even by a consistently late bedtime, has deleterious effects on multiple measurements of skin health, including hydration, skin barrier protection, microbiome counts and skin regeneration, among others (Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol, 2022, 15, 1051). Skin repair processes occur at night and help to maintain important aspects of skin health (FEBS Lett, 2021, 595, 2413). Interest is increasing in the development of topical products that help restore proper circadian function. This study demonstrates that a proprietary topical formulation regulates new and established gene and protein biomarkers of circadian entrainment and circadian rhythm, demonstrating the product's potential to maintain appropriate dermal diurnal balance. https://lnkd.in/eNDAvCVe

ORIGINAL ARTICLE Open Access Mitigation of ultraviolet-induced erythema and inflammation by para-hydroxycinnamic acid in human skin William P. Janson, Laurie E. Breyfogle, John C. Bierman, Zhi Yan Chew, Matthew C. Ehrman, John E. Oblong To evaluate whether p-hydroxycinnamic acid (pHCA) alone and in combination with niacinamide (Nam) can mitigate UV-induced erythema, barrier disruption, and inflammation. https://lnkd.in/eyUQEXF8

Evaluation of the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of Prosopis juliflora fruit extract as a novel multifunctional bioactive ingredient and its potential applicability in pro-ageing and skin colour harmonization cosmetic products Tássyo Leandro da Silva, Jonas Gabriel de Oliveira Pinheiro, Arthur Thomaz Coutinho de Moura, Christovam Gondim Maia Neto, Francisco Lucas Pereira Correia … See all authors Prosopis juliflora, commonly known as algaroba or mesquite, was introduced and has since proliferated throughout the semi-arid region of the Caatinga biome. Various studies have documented its properties, including antimicrobial, antioxidant, and antitumor activities, attributed to the presence of diverse secondary metabolites such as alkaloids, terpenoids, tannins, and flavonoids. The objective of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant and antityrosinase activities of P. juliflora fruit extract as a multifunctional active ingredient, and to develop cosmetic formulations containing this vegetal extract for potential applications in skincare products targeting pro-ageing and skin colour homogenization properties. https://lnkd.in/eyP4GNzB