Initial preparation…
As mentioned before, the instructions, and the general quality of everything included in the box, is high, well protected, and fairly simple to construct, as long as the warnings over the correct adhesives are heeded.
The electronic package for lighting was included with the review item, and it is this which dominates the first part of the build, and comes with its own set of instructions, and is alluded to in the main instructions too, if it is to be fitted.
It is worthwhile before assembly, to connect the electronic board and all the associated lights, etc. to make sure that everything operates as it should, so that if there were any issues with a non-working part, you could contact the supplier for a replacement.
Oh, and find a mobile phone charger too, there will be one in a drawer somewhere!
Here though, is a little hurdle which could cause some problems for some modellers who expect everything to be in the box ready to assemble.
The main circuit board is fitted to the underside of the base, and has a connector for a phone charger, to power the unit, on one end of the board. This locates into a slot at one end of the base, and the height of it within the base is quite critical. The board has four small holes for fastening screws, which are not included, and the instructions tell the builder to make four supports for the base, also not included. I had quite a time firstly making four accurate ‘plinths’ to support the base, thick enough to enable the connector to fit snugly into its slot, but not so big as to cause the board to short out if it was placed onto a metal surface while powered. I made them from bits of mahogany, which I superglued in place, and so that the screws would hold it well.
Bear in mind also, that there is deformation in the resin base too, not enough to cause problems in the build, but enough when making plinths for the board so that it sits level when assembled.
I worked out that the builder has about 1 millimetre free space under the board when assembled. Oooer! I managed to find some suitable screws in an old pedometer that I took to bits! Very tiny!
Seriously, I think that this is a serious omission to just leave the builder to their own devices when fitting the circuit board. It’s a very worthwhile thing to fit to the kit, and I think that plinths and screws should be supplied to prevent problems for the builder.
The next item that I fitted was the main sensor that detects the operating card. The instructions state very clearly that cyano glue is not to be used here, and so I used Araldite. The location dimensions are very clear, and so once again, if you are careful, problems should not occur.
The main operating display fitted easily enough, and I then moved on to fitting the two lights, which should fit up to the clear lenses, top and bottom. Again, the instructions stated that the lenses should not be superglued to the light circuit board, which for the bottom light was not an issue as it fits quite snuggly in its recess, but the top presented a problem, as I could not see how the tiny circuit board could be fixed solidly enough to the lens.
The solution was to build a support plate and clamp, to hold the board and cable in place so it could touch the lens, but not have to be glued to it.
At this point, all the electric cables and components were fitted, and thoughts could point towards fitting the two halves of the main body together.
