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What is dermaplaning? Experts share the side effects, benefits, tools and more

Shaving your face is more common than you might think.
Schick Hydro Silk Touch Up Razor; Tweezerman Facial Razor
Schick Hydro Silk Touch Up Razor; Tweezerman Facial RazorCourtesy Katie Jackson; Courtesy Kamari Stewart
/ Source: TODAY

It might be time to trade in the high-tech cleansing device for the latest trend in physical exfoliation: a razor (aka a dermaplaning tool).

Facialists have been crushing the taboo topic of female face shaving and raving about the benefits of dermaplaning for years. But recently, the treatment has reached a new level of popularity as dermaplaning has taken off on social media platforms and new at-home devices have made it even more accessible.

What is dermaplaning | What are the benefits of dermaplaning | What are the risks | Does shaving cause your hair to grow back thicker or darker | Expert-approved & editor-tested dermaplaning tools and razors | How we chose | Meet the experts

Our top picks

The best razors and tools for dermaplaning

What is dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning is the act of shaving your face with a single blade that resembles a scalpel to help remove dead skin cells and peach fuzz.

What are the benefits of dermaplaning?

“Taking off the top layer of dead skin cells helps skin care products absorb better and procedures work better,” says Purvisha Patel, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Visha Skincare. “It also tricks the skin into thinking it’s wounded and boosts collagen production, helping decrease fine lines and wrinkles.”

It prevents acne from forming, too. “By removing the top layer of dead skin cells, dermaplaning prevents oils, dead skin and debris from being trapped inside the follicle,” says Kerry Benjamin, esthetician and founder of StackedSkincare.

Dermaplaning can also serve as a primer for makeup as it allows foundation to look more like your skin, rather than it sitting on top of your dead skin and peach fuzz.

“Makeup goes on smoother [when dermaplaning], and you end up using less complexion products like foundation, concealer and powder because they work more effectively on smooth, exfoliated skin,” says Sarah Lucero, makeup artist and Stila Global Executive Director of Creative Artistry. “Dry patches and layers of dull skin can build up and interfere with makeup application.”

Plus, “[peach-fuzz] can be slightly tinted, which can cause a dingy cast onto skin, especially around the hairline, ears and chin,” says celebrity makeup artist Mickey Williams. “Once that’s removed, the skin looks more luminous and glowy because it’s more even-toned.”

What are the risks of dermaplaning?

Nicking your face with a dermaplaning tool is possible, but unlikely (especially if it has blade guards). If you have cystic acne with active pustules, avoid dermaplaning. “Those with active acne or open sores should not use the device until the pimples or elevated marks have calmed down,” says Dara Levy, founder of Dermaflash.

People with inflammatory skin conditions, such as eczema or psoriasis, should also skip the process says Dr. Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Entière Dermatology.

Since dermaplaning creates micro-cuts on the surface of the skin, opt for more gentle skincare products post-treatment. “Avoid products containing acids, retinol and benzoyl peroxide until the skin has healed (3 to 4 days), as they will irritate the skin,” says Patel.

Finally, sunblock is important after a dermaplaning treatment. “Sunblock application is a must since you are exposing newly-exfoliated skin, as this skin is easily damaged by UV light,” says board-certified dermatologist and celebrity beauty expert, Dr. Anna Guanche.

Does dermaplaning cause your hair to grow back darker or thicker?

If you've been avoiding dermaplaning because you're afraid your hair will grow back thicker and darker, you can rest easy. According to Dr. Brooke Jeffy, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in Scottsdale, Arizona, this is a myth. "When shaved hair grows back, it can initially feel thicker and look darker because you have given the hair a blunt course tip that is temporarily more obvious."

The best dermaplaning tools and razors, according to experts and editors

Most budget-friendly: Dorco Tinkle Eyebrow or Face Hair Removal Safety Razors

What we like
  • Easy to use
  • Gentle on skin
Something to note
  • May be really sharp

Form: Razors

Dr. Kanchanapoomi Levin recommends these razors, which can be used for dermaplaning or brow shaping. One TODAY writer who has been using the tool for years says she loves that they're both affordable and easy to use.

Great for travel: Schick Hydro Silk Touch-Up Dermaplaning Tool

What we like
  • Makes face feel soft
Something to note
  • May irritate skin

Form: Razors

Both Shop TODAY Contributor Bobbie Thomas and Dr. Kanchanapoomi Levin recommend these razors to clean and reshape overgrown eyebrows or to gently exfoliate the skin. Their portable size makes them perfect for on-the-go touch ups at any moment.

Courtesy of Katie Jackson

"I use these razors on my cheeks, chin, upper lip and forehead," explains Shop TODAY contributor Katie Jackson. "They’re even sharp enough to tackle the coarser hair along my bikini line and on my hands," she says.

Editor-loved: Tweezerman Facial Razor

What we like
  • Weighty
  • Easy to clean
  • Easy to change blades
Something to note
  • Bit of an investment for razor

Form: Razor

"This face razor is a cut above the rest," says associate editor Kamari Stewart. "You can immediately tell from the weight it has to it, but I also love that it provides a smooth shave without nicking the skin and that it’s so easy to clean."

"It’s also very easy to change out the razors and I haven’t felt like I was in danger of cutting myself once when changing the blade!" raves Stewart.

Courtesy of Kamari Stewart

Comes with refillable heads: StackedSkincare Dermaplaning Tool

What we like
  • Easy to use
  • Softens skin
Something to note
  • Mixed reviews on durability

Form: Tool

Dr. Guanche recommends the StackedSkincare Dermablading Tool because it “can easily be used at a 45-degree angle to remove unwanted hair and dead skin cells, leaving the skin fresh.” It also has refillable heads to cut down on waste.

No more fuzz: Michael Todd Beauty Sonicsmooth Sonic Dermaplaning Tool

What we like
  • Helps remove peach fuzz
  • Easy to use
Something to note
  • May scratch the skin

Form: Tool

Dr. Joshua Zeichner, a New York City-based dermatologist, likes this device which has a safety blade to prevent cuts. "It uses low-level vibrational technology along with the exfoliation, which is thought to stimulate collagen to strengthen the foundation of the skin itself," he says.

Splurge option: Dermaflash Sonic Dermaplaning Tool

What we like
  • Makes skin smooth
  • Brightens skin
Something to note
  • May not hold charge wrong

Form: Tool

Lucero uses this portable, vibrating Dermaflash, saying it "comes in handy when [she's] on the go or getting clients ready for the red carpet and on photo shoots."

How we chose the best products for dermaplaning

The Shop TODAY team rounded up the best tools and razors for dermaplaning by enlisting the recommendations of board-certified dermatologists as well as makeup and beauty experts. We also asked our editors to share their tried-and-true favorites as well.

Meet the experts

  • Dr. Purvisha Patel is a board-certified dermatologist in Tennessee and founder of Visha Skincare.
  • Kerry Benjamin is an esthetician and founder of StackedSkincare in Santa Monica, California.
  • Sarah Lucero is a makeup artist and Stila Global Executive Director of Creative Artistry.
  • Mickey Williams is a celebrity makeup artist in New York, New York.
  • Dara Levy is the founder of Dermaflash in the Greater Chicago area.
  • Dr. Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Entière Dermatology in New York, New York.
  • Dr. Anna Guanche is a board-certified dermatologist and celebrity beauty expert in Calabasas, California.
  • Dr. Brooke Jeffy, M.D. is a board-certified dermatologist in Scottsdale, Arizona and founder of youth skincare brand, BTWN.
  • Dr. Joshua Zeichner is a New York City-based dermatologist.
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