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The best mangoes are starting to come into U.S. markets right now. Beginning in April and peaking in May and June, mangoes from India, the Caribbean, Guatemala, Costa Rica and Mexico will fill the bins at produce markets. And Florida mangoes will hit the stores in June.

No matter what variety you end up with, the test for a ripe mango is to gently squeeze it. It should feel soft and slack beneath the leathery skin but not mushy. If the mangoes are firm, put them in a paper bag to ripen more quickly.

When cooking with mangoes, I like to keep the recipes simple and the fruit raw; heating mangoes eliminates some of their floral perfume. Here’s a twist with a chicken saute, spiked with plenty of black pepper, a little rum and mangoes folded in at the end to brighten the mix.

Black Pepper Chicken Thighs With Mango, Rum And Cashews

Makes 4 servings.

1/2 teaspoon light brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper, divided use

Pinch cayenne

1/4 cup olive oil

1/2 cup salted cashews

1 3/4 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2-inch chunks

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 cup finely chopped scallions

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro stems

3 garlic cloves, finely chopped

2 tablespoons dark rum

1 large (15 ounces) mango, cut into 1/4-inch cubes (or use 2 small mangoes)

1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons cider vinegar, to taste

1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves

To toast cashews: In small bowl, stir together brown sugar, 1/2 teaspoon black pepper and cayenne. In large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Add cashews and sugar-spice mixture. Cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes or until golden. Scrape nuts into bowl. Set aside.

To cook chicken: Using paper towel, wipe out skillet. Season chicken all over with salt and remaining 1 teaspoon pepper. Return skillet to medium-high heat. Add remaining 3 tablespoons oil. Add scallions and cilantro stems. Cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add garlic and chicken. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 12 minutes or until chicken is golden and cooked through. Add rum. Cook, scraping up any browned bits from bottom of pan, for 1 minute or until rum evaporates.

To serve: Remove pan from heat. Immediately add nuts, mango, vinegar and cilantro leaves. Taste and adjust seasonings, if necessary.

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