It’s that time of year again when we look back at the year that was.
As always, we’ve had a lot of outstanding bites at local restaurants this year, but these are the ones we’re still thinking about weeks and months later.
Here’s hoping 2025 is just as delicious.
Lemon thyme glazed magret duck breast from Meritage
I took some out-of-town friends to my favorite French eatery recently, and the classy holiday decor only enhanced our meal full of Meritage classics — moules frites, French onion soup and creme brulee among them. But when I heard that they had never tried duck, I told them that if they were to try it anywhere, Meritage was the place. One bite of this juicy, tender, ultra-flavorful breast sealed the deal for them. The toothsome little lentils braised in red wine were just icing on the cake. I did warn them that they’ll probably not have duck this good again, but I know they’ll go out into the world trying.
Meritage: 410 St. Peter St., St. Paul; 651-222-5670; meritage-stpaul.com
— J.F.
Vegetable quesadilla at Oro by Nixta
I ate at this fantastic nixtamalized masa-fueled eatery in Northeast Minneapolis this summer, and I still can’t stop thinking about this quesadilla. Really, it’s mostly about the tortilla — a thick, tender, slightly nutty and minerally disc of blue corn, stuffed with melty cheese and some green vegetables. Chef Gustavo Romero’s tortilla-making process, using dried corn kernels soaked in food-grade lime, is based on a 10,000-year-old tradition that is back on the upswing for good reason. If you haven’t had a real-deal nixtamalized tortilla, this is your signal to seek one out, and Oro, which earned a 2024 nod for the nationwide James Beard award for Best New Restaurant, is the best place in the cities to do so.
Oro by Nixta: 1222 Second St. N.E., Minneapolis; 612-200-8087; nixtampls.com
— J.F.
Gazpacho at Estelle
Gazpacho is one of those dishes that I’ll order almost every time I see it, especially during the heat of the summer. Most of the time, the cold soup scratches an itch without being something to write about, but this creamy, nutty, fresh and slightly spicy version from Estelle was on my mind long after I slurped it late this summer on a beautiful day on the restaurant’s charming patio. Though it’s not on the regular menu, I get the feeling that it’s a staff favorite, so look out for it when the weather warms, and definitely enjoy it al fresco.
Estelle: 1806 St. Clair Ave., St. Paul; 651-330-9648; estellestp.com
— J.F.
Beef Wellington at Forepaugh’s
I’m loving the remake of this historic space — everything feels new and fresh, but stays true to the original design. And while most of the dishes I’ve tried have been excellent, this juicy, beefy, gorgeous beef Wellington feels exactly right on a cold night in what might have been Joseph Forepaugh’s living room. If the beef wasn’t delicious enough, the kitchen adds melt-in-your-mouth confit potatoes, and perfectly cooked vegetables, although it looks like the winter version has mushrooms duxelles instead, so I might have to go back and try it again. Shucks.
Forepaugh’s: 276 Exchange St. S., St. Paul; 651-666-3636; forepaughs.com
— J.F.
King crab spaghetti at Dario
It was honestly hard to choose a favorite among the excellent hand-made pastas at this funky, lively restaurant in Minneapolis’ North Loop, but I landed on this irresistible, creamy spaghetti, tangled with tender, sweet blue crab, bright Calabrian chili, garlic and lemon and topped with a shower of fresh basil. I had this dish twice this year, once with girlfriends and once when we returned for our anniversary. Each time, my fork didn’t stop twisting this springy pasta and perfect sauce around it until every morsel was gone. Honestly, though, you cannot go wrong with any of the pastas (or vegetables or meat dishes) here — all are lovingly crafted by chef Joe Rolle, who mans the pass almost every night in his bright apron and flashy Vans, ensuring that every bite that reaches your plate is fantastic.
Dario: 323 N. Washington Ave., Minneapolis; 612-614-2560; dariorestaurant.com
–J.F.
Roasted tomato toast at Razava
This is not a joke: After my first visit to Razava Bread Co., a cafe that opened in December on Grand Avenue, I texted my girlfriend — should we move, so we can live closer to this place? Everything on the menu is so thoughtfully executed, from the shakshuka to the seasoned cream cheese, but the best single bite came courtesy of the unassuming roasted tomato toast.
The house razava-style bread — wheat, spelt, rye, buckwheat; all milled fresh from regenerative local farms and baked by sourdough wizard Omri Zin-Tamir — is brushed with garlic confit oil before being toasted in an open-fire grill, and it provides such a hearty, nutty platform for soul-warmingly sweet and perfectly seasoned tomatoes and a drizzle of good olive oil. This is what food should taste like, folks. I’d eat this every single day for the rest of my life.
Razava Bread Co: 685 Grand Ave.; 763-338-0853; www.razavabread.co/
— J.K.
Woodfired Chicken at Pajarito
Alright, good news, bad news and more good news. The good news is that many restaurants, like Pajarito along West Seventh Street, honor the seasonality of their ingredients by changing up their menus every couple months. The bad news is that this means you cannot currently try their Middle Eastern-spiced woodfired chicken, which was, hands-down, the best bite of chicken I had all year. Juicy, ultra-crispy, seasoned flawlessly. But more good news: Everything else I’ve tried at Pajarito also rocks, so you should still go there and eat lots.
Pajarito: 605 W. Seventh St.; 651-340-9545; pajaritorestaurant.com
–J.K.
Pabellón Criollo at Crasqui
At Crasqui, a new-ish restaurant just over the Wabasha Street bridge from downtown, chef and owner Soleil Ramirez has rightly established herself as our city’s go-to for thoughtful, fine-dining-infused Venezuelan dishes and full-to-bursting yet still delicate arepas. (If you haven’t been there… go tonight!)
Crasqui serves a massively underrated lunch menu, too, and Ramirez’s pabellón criollo — shredded braised beef, rice, really well-seasoned black beans and plantains — just makes me so happy. It’s perhaps a simpler plate than others on the menu but it’s still transportative and comforting, which does wonders to power me through the wintry afternoon slog.
Crasqui: 84 Wabasha St., St. Paul; 952-600-5578; crasquirestaurant.com
–J.K.
Basil wings at Gai Noi/Khaluna/Lat14
At this point, Ann Ahmed’s basil wings are a classic. They’re on the menu at all three of her restaurants — Khaluna, Lat 14 and Gai Noi, which opened in 2023 in Loring Park and is where I had those wings most recently. Shatteringly crispy batter with a little spice from those jalapeños and an umami kick from a post-deep-fry dry rub. Man, they’re just so gosh darn good.
Gai Noi: 1610 Harmon Place, Minneapolis; gainoimpls.com
Khaluna: 4000 Lyndale Ave S., Minneapolis; 612-345-5199; khaluna.com
Lat14: 8815 Seventh Ave N., Golden Valley; 763-400-7910; lat14.com
— J.K.
Cheese Curds at Dexter’s
I’m pleased to announce I’ve already made my New Year’s resolution for 2025: To eat more cheese curds. Let’s not kid ourselves; I already eat a lot of those li’l guys, but I believe personal growth comes when you push yourself to achieve more, or something like that. The best curds I had this year were from Dexter’s, a new sports bar on the Minneapolis/Edina border by restaurateur Daniel del Prado. They’re tossed in cheddar powder after coming out of the fryer, which gives them a satisfyingly savory edge and cuts through the fattiness. (Know a good curd? Send me recommendations at eat@pioneerpress.com.)
Dexter’s: 3717 W. 50th St., Minneapolis; 612-200-9047; dextersmpls.com
— J.K.
