[Yamate Western-style House] (Yokohama City, Kanagawa Prefecture, former province name: Musashi)

＜The group of Western-style buildings in the “Bluff” overlooking Yokohama, their unique and high-quality design tells the history of the port＞ Since the opening of the port at the end of the Edo period, trade between Japan and the Western powers has flourished in Yokohama, and a “foreign settlement” was established in an area about 1 km from the port, where foreigners from various countries lived. The shogunate strictly controlled the passage between the settlement and the outside world with a checkpoint, so the settlement came to be known as “Kannai,” and this name still influences the station names today. However, as trade expanded and the number of foreigners staying in Yokohama and the length of their stay increased, the settlement gradually became too small. Therefore, the hilly area southeast of the Kannai district, which was the traditional settlement, was developed, and the “Yamate Concession” was opened in 1867. Yamate was originally leased by the UK for military use, so it was not unrelated to the lives of foreigners. The excellent views from the hilltop, commonly referred to as "Bluff," became popular, and as the Meiji era began, more and more foreigners began to settle there. Yokohama suffered severe damage in the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, with buildings collapsing throughout the city, including the government district centered in the Kannai area. Yamate was not spared from the disaster, with many of the mansions built since the Meiji era destroyed, and some foreigners who had brought Western culture to Japan and contributed to the development of academic studies lost their lives. However, the improvement of resources and technology in the heavy chemical industry, which had become even more popular since World War I, was widely recognized as a major event that would determine the fate of the nation, so the government strongly promoted the reconstruction of Yokohama. The situation was the same for other countries, and redevelopment was carried out at a rapid pace so as not to fall behind the recovery of the Japanese market. Some of the mansions that were completed in this way remain or have been restored to this day in Yamate, forming a dignified streetscape full of exotic atmosphere. A prime example is the Ehrismann House (photos 2 to 5). It was built between 1925, just after the earthquake, and the following year, and was owned by Swiss merchant Fritz Ehrismann (1867-1940). Ehrismann was the Yokohama manager of the Swiss trading company Siebel Hegner & Co., and was mainly in charge of raw silk trading. He lived in the house until his death in Yokohama in 1940. The mansion was designed by Czech architect Antonin Raymond (1888-1976). Raymond came to Japan when his mentor, Frank Lloyd Wright (1867-1959, American architect, one of the three great masters of modern architecture), designed the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo. After he became independent, Raymond continued to design in Japan, and he also trained many other architects, including Kunio Maekawa (1905-1986). When he designed the Ehrismann House, Raymond had just become independent and was still trying to create his own unique worldview while still being influenced by Wright. Raymond designed the house with a skillful sense of balance, aiming for a structure that emphasized functionality while maintaining the spaciousness of the house by ensuring horizontal space. The completed house has a magnificent and soft design with white and emerald green as its base colors, and harmonizes well with the warm sunlight pouring into the hillside and the colors of the trees. The current building is a relocated and reconstructed version of a house that was demolished after the war, but it is easy to imagine that it was a rare place of relaxation for the people of that time, with its elegant sunroom that tries to capture as much sunlight as possible. Berrick Hall (photos 1, 6-10) contrasts well with the Ehrisman House in terms of its stylized beauty. Built in 1930 as the residence of British trader Bertram Robert Berrick (1873-1952), it was designed by American architect J. H. Morgan (1873-1937). It is the largest Western-style building still standing in the Yamate Settlement, and has a Spanish-style design with a bright, unified warm color scheme. As the name of the property today states, the house has a spacious living room where dance parties were held in the past. On the other hand, the rooms on the second floor, which were used as study and bedrooms, are filled with a tranquil atmosphere, creating a striking contrast. Berrick, the owner of the house, was a unique man who was both a merchant and a diplomat, working as a trader and also serving as the honorary consul of Finland. Considering this influence, it makes sense that the first floor hall, which likely served as a guest house, and the second floor study, which handled confidential information and business matters, coexist in a building with contrasting functions. The appearance of such “different” spaces is undoubtedly a symbolic charm of Yokohama, a port city that has fostered its own unique culture. Recommended for solo travelers: ★★★★ (There are people, but not many. You can enjoy sightseeing in peace!) Visit date: Around 5pm on the first Sunday of November Access: About 8 minutes on foot from Motomachi-Chukagai Station (to the Ehrismann House) #Yamate Western-style House #Ehrismann House Chinatown