Our new seaside series, Take me to the beach, recommends short rail breaks around the UK coastline. We begin in this popular Yorkshire harbour town and its neighbour, Robin Hood’s Bay.
When to go
Surrounded by the North York Moors and hugging the rugged Yorkshire coastline, the picturesque town of Whitby and nearby village of Robin Hood’s Bay claim some of the most dramatic cliffs in England. Whitby’s bustling harbour welcomes flocks of visitors throughout the summer, but its pretty streets provide a cosy retreat in the winter months, too.
The area is steeped in history with a touch of fantasy; home to medieval monks inhabiting the ancient Whitby Abbey, it also provided the inspiration for Bram Stoker’s Dracula, which was published 125 years ago.
How to get there
Whitby is split by the River Esk, with dramatic clifftops towards the east and the beach hut-lined sands to the west. The train station, served by Northern Rail, is on the west bank of the river.
Most places in the compact centre – surrounding the harbour – are within walking distance. There are good links on the Coastliner bus service to Robin Hood’s Bay, Scarborough, Middlesbrough. A day ticket for two is £13.50, and allows you to hop on and off the bus at leisure (transdevbus.co.uk/york).
You can also hike between Whitby and Robin Hood’s Bay in around three hours via the Cleveland Way.
For more details on planning a trip on the Yorkshire Coast, see Route YC.
Where to stay
Close to the heart of Whitby, The Wheeldale (wheeldale-hotel.co.uk) is perched on the edge of West Cliff beach. A friendly, family-run B&B, it is just a 10-minute walk along the cliffs to the centre of the town. Doubles start at £55, with a wheelchair-accessible room, parking and a fry-up breakfast included.
North Ings (northings.co.uk) is a lovingly restored Georgian house situated in the heart of Robin Hood’s Bay. You can be on the beach in less than five minutes and reach Whitby in 20 minutes on a bus or around 10 in a car. Doubles from £100 (two-night minimum stay), with a breakfast of eggs Benedict and smashed avocado included. It has parking on site, but won’t allow children or pets, except for registered working dogs.
Day one: up with the sun
Beckett’s, a dog-friendly café and second-hand bookshop, is perfect for a cosy brunch. Friendly staff, fairy lights and warm orange walls make for an intimate atmosphere. It offers soups and warm sandwiches, but the real stars of the show are the teacakes, served with lashings of butter. Open Wednesday to Saturday, 10am to 4pm.
Three things you might not know about Whitby…
1) In 664, Church leaders gathered at the Synod of Whitby and decided on the date of Easter.
2) Whitby was the town where Captain Cook, the man who “founded” Australia, learnt the sailing skills that would give him a place in the history books. Visitors can spend time in the house where he once lived, now transformed into the Captain Cook Memorial Museum.
3) The town provided the inspiration, and setting, for much of Bram Stoker’s Dracula. In fact, Dracula’s first victim, Mr Swales, was named after a gravestone Stoker found in Whitby’s graveyard, which can still be seen today.
Souvenir hunting
The town centre has plenty of gift shops for souvenirs. The Little Shop of Wonderful Things in the heart of Whitby is particularly lovely, while treasure hunters can enjoy a dig around The Bazaar, a quirky antiques shop offering everything from umbrella stands to old train station signs. Jessica Hogarth in Robin Hood’s Bay has a sweet selection of locally made gifts.
Don’t miss
Climb Whitby’s famous 199 steps from the old town to reach the statuesque ruins of Whitby Abbey. The site has a long history; the first monastery was built here in the 7th century, and a second was demolished on the orders of Henry VIII in 1539 (adults £11, children £6.60, booking recommended, english-heritage.org.uk).
Time for a sundowner
Soak in the evening sun on the balcony of Abbey Wharf, a large, bright bar and restaurant overlooking the harbour with a lively atmosphere. For something more relaxed, aim for harbour-side cocktail bar The Moon & Sixpence, which has tasteful industrial décor and unusual drinks.
Dinner reservation
Fish and chips is essential. Hadley’s serves excellent chips and all the usual suspects – perfect for eating on the pier. If the sun isn’t co-operating, head to The Quayside. It has won awards for its fish and chips, but its veggie lasagna is also top-notch. The Blitz is a quirky restaurant on the high street offering tapas-style meals at night. The creamy garlic mushrooms and patatas bravas are highlights.
Day two: hit the beach
For spectacular views and quaint buildings, spend the morning on the beach at Robin Hood’s Bay. Sunk down winding pathways, the view reveals itself as you approach, with the bay’s sandy planes hugging a rugged coastline.
Lunch time
Stop off for a Sunday roast at the Hare & Hounds in Hawsker, which is on the bus route between the Bay and Whitby. It may be small but its lunches are not. If you want more time in the Bay, Brambles is an independent, family-run bistro focusing on fresh and local Yorkshire produce including Whitby haddock and Yorkshire steaks.
Time to relax
To embrace the sea fully, hop aboard one of Whitby’s many boat trips – including one on a rather convincing pirate ship. A one-hour trip is £10 for adults, £5 for children (whitbycoastalcruises.com).
A final treat
It has to be a Whitby lemon bun from Botham’s bakery, or its selection of biscuits. For something savoury, or a posh picnic for the journey home, pop across the road to The Whitby Deli for local cheese, crackers and charcuterie. If you are in Robin Hood’s Bay, classic sweet and chocolate shop Brown’s sells everything from champagne truffles to chocolate fountains.
