克里斯托弗(CHRISTOPHE)

高级复杂功能钟表组装大师

高级钟表工艺

在我们的高级制表工坊内,有这样一位耐心细致的手工艺人,他一丝不苟地运用精湛技艺进行创作。自1998年以来,克里斯托弗(Christophe)一直担任制表工匠,专门从事高级复杂功能的组装。正是他小心翼翼地组装并调校533个零件,使LUC Full Strike奢华腕表的机芯以如水晶般悦耳的声音进行小时、刻钟和分钟鸣响报时。即使他是经验丰富的专家,也需要整整一个月的辛勤工作才能完成这项繁复精致的工作。

[A sustained note in the background]


(On-screen text: Chopard presents)


If someone had said to me at watchmaking school that I would work on minute repeaters at Chopard, I'd never have believed them.


(Close-up of Christophe wearing an eyepiece, of the inner workings of a timepiece.)


It was my holy grail to work on pieces like this.


(On-screen text: ART, from the Latin ARS, ARTIS. Talent, skill, dexterity.)


[Soft piano music plays]


(On-screen text: The word ART becomes ARTISAN.)


(On-screen text: From expertise to emotion. Chopard)


(A black and white graphite sketch of the palm of a hand, surrounded by the words EXPERTISE, CREATIVITY, EMOTION.)


I'm amazed at what the hand can do, particularly in precision work with such small parts.


(A portrait of Christophe.)


(On-screen text: Christophe, Grand Complications Watchmaker)


(On-screen text: Pre-assembling)


(Christophe opens a box of tiny parts and begins to assemble them with dainty tools.)


I am a watchmaker in the Grandes Complications workshop. I think watchmaking is a real vocation. I've always aspired to it. My home still has dismantled clocks. As a child, I wanted to see how they worked. We're pretty much the ones who finish the job, but beforehand, a lot of work is done to make all these parts correctly, so we can assemble them and ensure they work well. We receive the watch in separate parts, so we have over 500 parts in little boxes. And we assemble them from the beginning until the watch is finished, inspected and approved. It's amazing that we manage to fit all these parts in the movement.


(On-screen text: Movement assembly)


When you look at them all and realise they all need to fit within such a small space, it's quite incredible, but we manage it with time and perseverance.


(Christophe gently lowers the balance into the movement.)


Working on Poinçon de Genève watches requires us to be more cautious, more attentive to the parts with all their extra decoration. It's a real team effort. Some think we work all alone, but that's not true. We help each other a lot. We all have different perspectives on what's happening, and it's important to talk so we can continually improve.


(On-screen text: Casing)


You need around 10 years experience with complicated watches before you can assemble a minute repeater, because it's a mechanism that's hard to adjust to ensure the hours, quarters and minutes chime the right number of times exactly when they should. And I believe this can only be done by the human hand.


(Christophe winds his finished timepiece.)


[The chimes sound]


(On-screen text: Chopard - The artisan of emotions - Since 1860)

“制表是我的夙愿,如今能被选中制作像Chopard萧邦三问报时腕表这样的作品,是我人生中真正的成就。即便是一位天赋异禀的工匠,也需要积累至少十年的经验,才能制造出如此复杂的机芯。组装由数百个零件构成的机芯并不轻松,耗时耗力,费心劳神。这是一项只有通过手工才能完成的工作。”

克里斯托弗(Christophe),高级复杂功能钟表组装大师

克里斯托弗(Christophe),高级复杂功能钟表组装大师

对于克里斯托弗而言,制表是他的夙愿。在孩童时代,当他的同学们在玩球时,他却在耐心地拆卸家里的钟表,以了解它们的机制,他对齿轮构造很感兴趣。如今,这位工匠大师仍不忘初心;相反,他获得了更多的知识和才华。因此,在从业20多年后,他被公认为有能力打造L.U.C 08.01-L机芯,而Chopard萧邦高级钟表系列的旗舰产品——L.U.C Full Strike三问报时腕表所搭载的正是这枚机芯。这枚高级复杂功能腕表所搭载的精巧机芯受到四项技术保护,并配备脆弱易损的蓝宝石水晶玻璃音簧,因此,这款奢华腕表能够以别具一格的优美旋律进行从小时到分钟的鸣响报时。

作品

换言之,当克里斯托弗收到表厂自制的全部533个零部件时,他从事的是一项极其漫长、精巧和细致的工作。克里斯托弗坦言:“(我们所面临的)最大难题,是组装支承音簧的镜面。因为这些音簧非常纤细易损。”,尽管他手眼合一,训练有素,他也需要为每一件作品逐一组装表桥,将每个零件组合在一起,打造出一件件栩栩如生的作品。当克里斯托弗聆听到机芯的第一声跳动时,他深知自己完成的不仅仅是一项工作。

以精湛技艺传达丰富情感

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