Review: Death & Co. Denver

Give us an overview.
When Death & Co, one of New York City’s—and therefore the world’s—most celebrated bars, opened in RiNo in 2018, Denver hadn’t seen anything quite like it. The main bar occupies the grand lobby of The Ramble Hotel, where elaborate chandeliers hung from high ceilings multiply in the enormous arched mirrors behind the back bar and sumptuously upholstered, well-apportioned sofas, banquettes, and armchairs fill the window-lined room. Upstairs, two more bars await: The Garden, a seasonal rooftop terrace, lush with foliage and criss-crossed with strung lights, offers views of downtown and a menu of its own, while a 24-seat mezzanine lounge called Suite 6A traffics in bespoke experiences Thursday through Saturday. In short, it’s quite the elaborate playground for cocktail connoisseurs.

How’s the crowd?It took a minute for locals in this staunchly casual town to feel Death & Co. out, but the idea that they actually do fit in amid such opulence has finally begun to gel. Sure, some folks might be a little underdressed, some a little overdressed; some look vaguely unsettled. But many others have clearly made themselves at home; whether out-of-towners, new transplants, or long-timers who’ve been waiting for a place just like this, they tend to cut a more mature, well-traveled jib.

How are the drinks?Five pages’ worth of cocktails form the core of the handsomely bound, artfully illustrated list. Though they’re organized by style—from “fresh and lively” to “boozy and honest"—they're all exhilarating. Take the apple and caraway notes of the spritzy, vodka-based Gramercy Riffs with aquavit and Riesling, say, or the yin-yang zing of the Wabi-Sabi with whiskey, gin, white chocolate, wasabi, coconut, and matcha (whew): Every ingredient is there for a reason you can taste. Meanwhile, a compact selection of wine and beer pulls its weight, and there’s a full coffee program as well—this is a hotel lobby, after all. Upstairs, The Garden’s selection is shorter but no less provocative: Don’t miss spicy sizzlers like the Michelada—tricked out with mezcal and pineapple as well as lager and hot sauce—or the Faded Love, with Singani, green chile, and elderflower liqueur. As for Suite 6A (the little space on the mezzanine level), you’re missing the point of the place if you don’t let your bartender do at least a little kibitzing.

What do they have to eat?The full kitchen operates at all hours. If you’re here to day drink, simple yet tasteful breakfast and lunch items help you pace yourself, be it tender banana bread accompanied by chai butter and housemade jam or a French dip made fancy with shaved short rib, gruyère, and a side of rich onion soup. As afternoon melts into evening, seasonal plates pair nicely with the drinks: Think green-garlic panisse, lobster ceviche and a heck of a burger. Meanwhile, up on the rooftop, the rather giddy nibbles might include vermouth-marinated watermelon.

Did the staff do you right?The staff has a good name to uphold, so everyone aims for high polish and, for the most part, succeeds, proving both accommodating and well-versed in the offerings. If you favor a more personal touch, though, sit at the bar, either upstairs or down.

Wrap it up: what are we coming here for?Death & Co is Denver’s gateway to glamour. Ease into a plush chair with a companion worth splurging on (be it a client or a date), watch the beautiful people go by, nurse something exquisite, and let yourself think the obvious: “I could get used to this.”