Review: Experimental Cocktail Club

First impression?
The heart of the main drag of London’s bustling Chinatown, in between dim sum palaces that clatter with noise and crowds whatever the time of day, seems an unpromising destination if you’re craving a superb cocktail.

But look for the dapperly dressed man lurking in front of a nondescript black door: if you’ve booked in advance, you’ll be whisked inside and up a staircase into a cozy-chic den that oozes louche Victoriana, as if it were masterplanned by Oscar Wilde and Anita Pallenberg.

Cool. So who’s there?
The owners of this bar are a quartet of Frenchman, and they earned their reputation by kickstarting the cocktail revolution in Paris a decade ago; indeed, that’s where the original outpost is located (call it ECC—everyone does).

Their acolytes have followed them to this satellite outpost in London (via Eurostar), so expect a heavy smattering of expats alongside a fashion-heavy crowd.

How are the drinks?
Come here for cocktails, whether Gallic-tinged riffs on classics (where a recipe might conventionally use soda, the French will swap out a crisp champagne) or the chance to try some premium vintage drinks—quite literally.

On the back of the menu, look for limited edition martinis et al made with liquor from the 1960s or 1970s. They’re all served in vintage, cut glass coupes and similar, which the owners snaffle from flea markets across France.

Worth ordering something to eat, too?
Food is minimal—a few snacks like charcuterie and various fromages, all with a French accent.

Did the staff do you right?
Much of the staff has been imported from the mothership in Paris, and sometimes the founding quartet might even still take a turn behind the bar. Expect a mélange of accents but a consistency of technique.

Wrap it up: what are we coming here for?
Hidden on the second and third floors of the townhouse, it’s an ideal date venue. The tiny tables and chairs wedged close together amp up the intimacy, as does the overall 1960s-art nouveau vibe.