Review: The Little Nell

Why did this hotel catch your attention? What's the vibe?
The hotel's exterior, at the base of Aspen Mountain (also called Ajax) is totally unassuming. Cars arrive at the covered porte-cochère, where a fleet of friendly bellhops whisk you and your luggage inside. The atmosphere is instantly transporting. I watched a returning guest greet the concierge warmly, as if he'd known him for years, which he likely had. A gas fireplace just off the lobby welcomes guests to sit in the cozy lounge area, with low couches around coffee tables and rotating artwork, which looks out to the pool and a winter wall garden scene (it changes for the seasons, of course). Luggage carts loaded with Vuitton and Dior bags, a luxury jeweler in the lobby, and women dressed in fur and leather pants: make no mistake, you are in Aspen.

What's the backstory?
In the same league as St. Moritz in Switzerland and Courchevel in France, Aspen is one of the ritziest and most famous ski towns in the world. And The Little Nell—the town's only five star/five diamond, ski in/ski out resort—is its grande dame hotel, even if it has only been open since 1989. The hotel is owned by the Aspen Skiing Company, which also has the recently renovated Limelight Hotel in Aspen in its portfolio and is owned by the billionaire Crown family of Chicago. The Little Nell is a celebrity and millionaire/billionaire/hedgefunder/magnate magnet, and other guests don't make a fuss of who's staying here because it's just standard operating procedure.

Tell us all about the accommodations. Any tips on what to book?
I was traveling with a crowd—my sister, my nine-year-old niece and my own two toddlers—so we checked into the hotel's only two-bedroom suite, #2, which is said to have a town view. From the balconies I could easily see Ajax mountain, and the flurry of comings and goings at the base gondola and surrounding bars. Minimalist but wholly hygge mountain modern is how I'd describe the suite's neutral tones, with soothing artwork on the walls and deeply comfortable textiles (I almost lost myself in the bathroom towels, easily the most luxe of my life). A little play tent with a play campfire had been thoughtfully set up for my kids in the living room. A gas fireplace added to the cozy vibe. The suite was not overly teched out, it's just what you need. Bose blue tooth speakers that were a cinch to connect. Digital light switches were intuitive, and I was pleased that the buttons I pushed did what I wanted them to do the first time.

The suite had a large master with a king bed and no balcony, and another room with two twins and a balcony. There was another larger balcony off the living room. In between the rooms there are two spacious bathrooms, one with a soaking tub with jets, and both with roomy walk-in showers and lush amenities called "First Tracks" (cute touch) made expressly for the hotel. The soap smelled like a spa and the Crème de Marfil heated floors and walls kept us all warm when drying off. The accommodations were extremely comfortable and also very quiet considering the central setting. I could have holed up here for days had fresh powder not been beckoning.

Is there a charge for Wi-Fi?
Wifi is included and lightning speed.

Drinking and dining—what are we looking at?
The Little Nell is an après ski hot spot and one of the best people-watching spots in town. I was surprised by how happening every hotel venue was after the lifts would shut down for the day. The lobby bar, called The Living Room, was busy with groups of friends sipping hot toddies and Champagne at low tables and around the fireplace. Not a hushed and reverent scene at all, lively and fun. The hotel's Ajax Tavern, directly facing the mountain, has indoor and outdoor seating and is a great spot for a drink or hot bowl of soup (or, why not, a Wagyu cheeseburger with truffle fries) while watching people make their final runs down at the end of the day.

The Little Nell's most celebrated restaurant (and one of Aspen's hottest tables) is Element 47, where I enjoyed dinner one night with my family (and was supremely relieved when we were offered the private dining room with the kids, since the main dining room was sophisticated, with dim lighting and a nice view of the illuminated winter wall in the outdoor garden). Local Wagyu beef, wolfish from Iceland, and Colorado-grown root vegetables, all expertly prepared, were on the prix fixe menu. There was also an "indulgence" menu with lobster, caviar, foie gras, and the like. Wine pairings were available for every course. I'm just bummed I missed a tour of the hotel's legendary wine cellar (where chef-paired wine dinners are also staged), with more than 20,000 bottles. An incredibly global by-the-glass range is offered at every hotel venue and as room service, too.

And the service? Service is friendly, discreet, genuine, and flawless. With the kind of money people are paying to stay here, nearly anything can be arranged by the concierge. Take a snowcat up the mountain to catch fireworks with some Clicquot in hand? That's New Year's at The Nell. Skiing the mountain before it opens or scoring powder stashes by snowcat with the mountain's ski patrol? Just say the word. The hotel also runs a luxurious complimentary shuttle service to Aspen's other mountains—Snowmass, Buttermilk, and Aspen Highlands—should you want to make use of the lift tickets, which get you access to all four.

What type of travelers will you find here?
This is a crowd that pulls from the global elite, but you can't judge a book by its cover at The Little Nell, because individuality is a virtue among these ranks. They're talking about the charity circuit in Palm Beach as much as the great band they discovered at Coachella or a DJ in Ibiza. They're wearing Bogner, Moncler, Canada Goose, and Obermeyer ski gear, leather leggings, and hand knit wool sweaters.

What about the neighborhood? Does the hotel fit in, make itself part of the scene?
The Little Nell is firmly ensconced in Aspen's heart, directly at the base of Ajax mountain, surrounded by luxury jewelers, fur shops, and boutique purveyors of luxe outer wear (Gorsuch boutique is attached to the hotel), and tony cafes like the Gorsuch Ski Cafe across the way. It is inextricable from the Aspen scene. You can walk to everything in town from here. And Four Mountain Sports, for all your ski and snowboard rental needs, is right across the street.

Is there anything you'd change?
No.

Any other hotel features worth noting?
Boots are heated overnight and all gear stored in the Ski Concierge room on the second floor, where the doors open right onto the mountain itself and the gondola is mere schusses away. They'll even make you an espresso here while you get geared up. The mini bar's non-alcoholic contents and snacks are also complimentary in the rooms. Cribs, strollers, and Playstations delivered to your room are among the family amenities. There's a heated outdoor pool and hot tub at the base of the mountain. The hotel's spa is small but luxe, with just three rooms (treatments include hot stone massage, oxygen facials, and more) and a fitness center. You can also arrange in-room treatments. The concierge can also arrange "oxygen rental" should the altitude be bothering you.

Bottom line: Worth it? Why? If you can afford it, worth it for the most luxurious ski experience in the United States. Quite simply, there's no place like the Nell. Guests really seem to make themselves comfortable and treat the property like their private residence. I even saw a few well-dressed people come to breakfast in their hotel slippers. I wish I'd been at ease enough to rock that.