Review: Hotel Maria

Why book?

Shy, retiring Helsinki has been given a confidence boost with a bold and elegant hotel set to transform the Finnish capital into a five-star city break.

Set the scene

A 20-minute stroll from the city centre, where four muscular, lantern-cradling statues preside over Eliel Saarinen’s Jugendstil train station, Hotel Maria sits on what might (for small-scale Helsinki) be considered an outskirt. Gently sloping roads lead to artisan coffee shops, dusty bookstores and cluttered antique stores likely to conceal loved but forgotten treasures.

Beyond these curiosity-sparking window displays is a building so sharply dressed, it demands passers-by stand to attention. Fittingly, this was once a residence for the sharpshooters battalion – although the days of drills and regimented army activity are long gone. The only guards on duty today are hat-tipping doormen ushering guests into snow-white corridors lined with gold.

The backstory

This is the first foray into hospitality for founder Samppa Lajunen, a three-time Olympic gold ski jumping medallist who subsequently made his fortune in real estate development. Considered a national hero for Finns, his trophies are displayed in a glass cabinet. His goal was to create a property that would appeal to a high-end American market, filling a void in Helsinki for a grand-service hotel of the sort found in Europe but not the Nordics.

Two of the four buildings date from 1885 and are already open; the hotel will fully function by summer. Initially used as army accommodation, the site served as a home for the Ministry of Agriculture and was eventually left vacant for several years.

The hotel’s namesake also has an interesting history. Maria Feodorovna, born Princess Dagmar of Denmark in 1847, would become the penultimate Empress of Russia. At that time, Finland fell under the rule of Russia – but after developing a fondness for the nation, Maria did her best to oppose any moves to limit the territory’s autonomy.

The rooms

Along with 117 rooms, Hotel Maria has the highest number of suites in Helsinki – 38 in total. In sync with American tastes, there’s an apartment-sized amount of space and an armory of amenities, including an industrial-speed hairdryer and a clothes steamer for any emergency de-crinkling. Most of the marble bathrooms really do have baths – a luxury these days in hotels – and 19 spa suites come with either a private sauna or steam room. Cosier loft rooms feature original wooden beams and are spread over two levels.

Head Designer Jana Sasko worked with Puroplan, one of Finland’s leading interior design firms, to create the cream, taupe and gold color scheme – reflected in ethereal paintings and graphics by Finnish artist Pia Feinik.

Light also plays an important role. Designed to lift spirits during even the darkest mid-winter days, dozens of chandeliers decorate the hallways and public areas – including a piece above the bar designed to mimic snow lanterns. Lamps and fittings in bedrooms can easily be dimmed using an iPad, creating more theatrical mood settings than a stage lighting console.

Although immaculately updated, traces of the past remain in the property’s 26 miles of crown moulding restored by a team from Paris. An original metal lift shaft at the top of a spiralling wooden staircase is another nod to the past.

Food and Drink

Catching up with its gastronomically successful neighbors, Finland has secured a place at the New Nordic table. Lilja, the hotel’s signature restaurant, hopes to raise the country’s culinary profile even further with hopes of landing a Michelin star. Head chef Ville Rainio, who was part of the team at Noma in Copenhagen, uses French-inspired techniques to create a tasting menu based on Finnish ingredients: wild-caught fish, seaweed from Aland, Rolling Cheese from Töölö and reindeer meat from a farm in Sodankylä.

Filled with Chesterfield sofas set on a leafy terrace, the more laid-back, brasserie-style Garden terrace is popular with a local Finnish crowd who prefer to dress down for dinner. Inspired by Arctic landscapes, the pristine white Bar Maria is set to be another city hang-out, serving Champagne (many by the glass) and caviar soundtracked by a grand piano.

The spa

The first hotel in the Nordics to offer a wellness concierge, Hotel Maria has a team of nutritionists and trainers on hand to provide personalised programmes. A Wellness Club will fully open with a large fitness space in June. Until then, Bala weights and mats can be delivered to rooms, and guided jogs occur weekly around the city.

The spa, however, is already operational. Spread around the greenery-filled atrium, a sauna and steam room are joined by warm and cold plunge pools in keeping with a Finnish fondness for hot/cold therapy. Treatments use products from Biologique Recherche and Finnish brand Niki Newd.

The neighborhood/area

The Kruununhaka district was once the ‘crown’s paddocks’, although as the city has grown, it’s been absorbed into the downtown area. Dusty antique stores, bohemian coffee shops, vintage clothes stores and independent jewelers can be found hidden in the side roads, making it a joy to explore on a lazy afternoon.

A short walk away is the Senate Square and it’s sparkling white neoclassical cathedral. The port is also nearby, where Katajanokka’s maritime warehouses have been converted into restaurants and urban bathing spot Allas Sea Pool floats in the harbor.

The service

Famous for keeping their distance, Finns aren’t accustomed to hyper-attentive service. But at Maria, the guest is always the centre of attention – whether in the bar, spa, restaurant or on the other end of a phone in the bedroom. A huge amount of work has been invested in training the 125 members of staff who speak more than 20 languages between them but all share one universal tool of communication: a smile.

Aside from butler services, valet parking, and dog and babysitting, the hotel offers an Experience Manager dedicated to curating personalized luxury adventures across the country.

For families

There are no specific programs for children, but the concierge team can recommend suitable activities in the city. Eighteen of the suites/rooms are adjoining for families.

Eco effort

Sustainability is in every Finn’s DNA. Born to work alongside nature, local people are adept at being resourceful and are already embracing a circular economy – demonstrated by the world’s first thrift store in an airport.

Green thinking underpins every practice at Hotel Maria - from the energy-efficient lighting right through to recycling programs. In the kitchen, ingredients are sourced locally to reduce carbon footprint and maintain freshness. Off the back of all this, the hotel plans to apply for Green Key Certification this year.

Accessibility

Four bedrooms in the hotel are accessible for wheelchair users. Due to the limitations of converting historical buildings, some common areas are impossible to reach, although lifts provide access to each floor.

Anything left to mention?

Delve deeper into Finland’s sauna culture at the nearby Allas Sea Pool or Loyly Helsinki, a contemporary waterside sauna complex with a traditional smoke sauna and easy access to the sea.